dpetro1

so what changed?

you might as well just start from scratch and run a full ignition troubleshooting test
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html

BSG

Okay you guys I'm stuck. Unscrewed the distributor now I can't get it disconnected from the plastic wire clips. I've mashed on them, yanked on them, even pried at them with a screwdriver. How do you the blasted things off?

I'm starting to think I'm going to have to break them to get them off.

*edit*

Okay, broke them to get them off. This is not turing out to be the snap job I thought. This distributor didn't come with the ignition coil and ignition module in there, so I'm having to switch them out from the old one. Got the coil out no problem but the ignition module is turning out to be much more of a challenge. Already stripped a bolt. How do I get it out of there? Tips or links, anyone?

*edit*

Pried the sucker off and it took some doing. This thing even came missing oen of the plugs you're supposed to stick into the module. Probably I will find the answer before you guys get back to me but, how am I supposed to line up the rotor? I messed up, I meant to line up the new rotor to the same position of the old one, but by accident I lined up the old rotor into the position of the new. Now I don't know how it was supposed to go. :/

Looks like I'm going to have to click it around in a circle one at a time until it catches. Unless you guys know any tricks.

.

94EG8

The two grey distributor plugs you have to slide off the metal stays or they wont unplug. Pull that tab out. To unplug them squeeze the other tab.

As for the rotor, it will only go on one way.

BSG

Okay you guys. I messed up here and lost the position of my rotor. Can anyone tell me how to get the distributor positioned at TDC? If I get it at TDC then I just point my rotor at spark plug #1, correct?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Check the FAQs. They have links for setting timing.

dpetro1

as 94 mentioned, the distributor will only go into the cam one way.



once you get the distributor on, set it at about the middle of the adjustment range. if the car runs, then you can set the ignition timing with a timing light

BSG

I know the rotor will only go on one way, problem is I twisted it around after I put it on. I meant to line up the new rotor to the same position of the old one, but by accident I lined up the old rotor into the position of the new. Now I don't know how it was supposed to go. I also tried to match up the lugs to the grooves as close as I could, but since I had to twist it to get it back on don't know.

Dpet- What do you mean by " set it at about the middle of the adjustment range."

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Whaaaat?

BSG

This is when I had them both sitting on my kitchen table. Mixed em up.

Also I gave the car a crank and it still won't start. Does this mean it was never my distributor? Or will it not start unless the rotor is lined up perfect?

dpetro1

i dont think you are understanding. we are not taking about the rotor button. we are taking about the entire distributor. it will only install into the cam one way. so you can spin the rotor all day long, when you put the dizzy back on it automatically realigns itself to the proper position.

sounds like you are getting way ahead of yourself. you need to do a full spark test before replacing anything else. are you sure the firing order is correct? i know you mentioned having trouble with that.

BSG

Why do all the websites say you have to mark the position of the engine and the rotor when replacing the distributor?

I already replaced the spark plug wires and double checked their position. It dosn't fire. Not even with the new distributor in there, which you assure me, goes in only one way and automatically lines up the rotor.

dpetro1

You would only need to mark the distributor so the ignition timing doesn't get thrown off. You should confirm it with a timing light though.

Are you sure you are getting spark? Run a full spark test.

BSG

What part of the distributor was I supposed to be marking, exactly, to make sure it lined up?

Spark test- you mean you want me to spray the plugs with water? Or do you mean you want me to pull out one of the plugs and lay it across a bolt to see if it throws spark?

Am I to take it that this car SHOULD have fired up, even if it wasn't aligned right? That it would have ran rough but still started? In other words it was never the distributor in the first place. So much for that guys "diagnostic" test.

.

dpetro1

You would mark the housing where it mates to the head. Again when doing a brand new distributor this doesnt really work.

Pull a plug and check. The water thing was just for arcing out wires in the rain.

If the distributor was the problem then yes it should at least fire to let you get the timing set. You can try adjusting the dizzy to see if more/less timing will help it to fire. Check spark first though.

BSG

The last time I tried this the car didn't throw any spark. Does that mean it can't be the oil leaking onto my spark plugs causing them to go bad? Bc the spark isn't reaching the plugs in the first place?

PaChiLa Leader

is your CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON and NO FUEL PUMP/Relay clicking sound?
you should check your Relay then jumping wires to see if your fuel pump opens up or not

my 92' si was acting up then one day it just died.. engine cranks but doesn't start..
i too thought it was the distributor so i just went out and get one also at the same time replace the fuel pump relay coz it does go bad.. then still doesn't start... i spent a good 3 days figuring out what was wrong with it.. ended up borrowing a ECU from a friend car starts so then i replaced my P28 and problem solved.

i would suggest to go borrow an ECU from a member or friend near you and test it out first before you spend a lot of time for nothing..

ECU IC does go bad on HONDAs so~

dpetro1

please describe how you performed the test. there are only so many components that control spark. from what i understand you have replaced everything. correct me if im wrong, you have replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor and entire dizzy (including coil and ignitor)? is this correct?

if there was oil on the plugs you would see it. the plugs wouldn't automatically go bad from being touched by oil. it would happen over time.

BSG

Check engine lights comes on and goes back off as normal. I can hear the fuel pump. I don't know a soul I could borrow a 94 civic ECU from.

I pulled out the ECU to get a look at it and it appears to be in perfect condition. No corrosion, rust, burn marks, or any other signs of damage. What did yours look like?

I pulled a plug wire, laid it across a bolt, and cranked the car. No spark.

Have replaced the: Main relay, Coil, Wires, Cap and entire dizzy. The rotor was fine, the ECU also looks to be fine.

Have not replaced the plugs. They could have been sitting in oil for months now. But at least three mechanics have assured me they have never seen an oil leak so bad it would cause the plugs not to fire.

dpetro1

Was there a new ignitor included when you replaced the dizzy?

BSG

No. There was no new ignitor. It looked old but fine.

Do you think that somehow this is water in my fuel pump? I can't ignore that this was a rain related problem. That's the biggest clue.

dpetro1

Just because it looks OK, doesn't mean it is functioning properly. you need to test/troubleshoot your no spark problem. without spark the car will not start, period.

this link has just about everything you need to know about honda ignition systems.
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html
troubleshoot the problem. start with the igniter since its the only thing that hasn't been replaced yet.

BSG

I'm returning this dizzy if you guys are sure the car should have at least fired.

dpetro1

We can't be sure of anything unless you actually start troubleshooting rather than just replace parts randomly.

Have you gone through any of the troubleshooting steps posted? If so report the results, otherwise there is no more help we can provide to you

BSG

Well you guys. Had the car hauled off to another mechanic. He says he's run all kinds of tests and he can't figure out what the hell is wrong with it either. I think it's the death of my car. :/

BSG

Hope everyone is ready for the twist ending.

After three weeks at the mechanic I finally get a call. He said it's repaired and it'll cost me $1,200 to get the car back. When I first took the car in I explained it was only worth $800 and that I would not be interested in repairing the car if it exceeded what the car was actually worth. This was repeated in every phone call "The car is only worth $800, so if it's going to be more it's not worth it, I'll just sell the car for parts or scrap."

So, what exactly did he fix on the car that it got up to $1200; I asked for more details? Right away he tells me the distributor and ignition coil. (Note: I had already replaced the distributor and ignition coil. With brand new parts. I made him aware of this fact when I first brought it in.)

I told him those parts had already been replaced. He says he has no explanation for me, but that when he replaced the parts the car started working again.

On top of the $1200 he also told me he's tacking on a $25 per DAY "storage fee" if I don't come get the car within 48 hours. So if it takes me a couple weeks to come up with the original $1200, I now have several hundred more for "storage fees." He knows I'll not be able to get caught up, and that I won't be willing to pay $3k for what is essentially and $800 car.

I feel what's happened here is, he's already found a buyer for the car and want's to sell it, so he's come up with an amount above what he knows I'd be willing to pay. Without any prompting from me he said he'd be taking a mechanic's lien out on the car.

I feel like he's probably done this many times before.

Opinions, anyone?