djedd

Hi guys I urgently need help.
I will start from where the problem began.My mother borrows my car to go to work sometimes and on this day when she drove to work (about 3-4miles) it almost sounded like the car was missing so I figured its probably a plug misfiring.
On the way back my mom says she checked the oil and on the dipstick it only had a bit of oil on the tip.So she filled up the oil and drove back home when she arrived at home the car sounded much worse than when she left.
The car would barely idle.When I checked cylinder 2&4 was dead so I pulled the plugs and replaced it, the idling was better but still stuttering.
So checking again cylinder 4 was still dead so I replaced it again with a new plug but still nothing the cylinder stayed dead.So I removed the plug again and it was full of oil.I cleaned it and put it back again, still nothing.
I though I will just try to drive it a bit maybe the oil will burn of eventually.

A week later the problem is still there dead cylinder.The car smokes like hell when revving it.It didn't smoke that much before the problem arised tho.
And when taking out the plug now its full of black ashlike stuff.Cleaning the plug doesn't solve the problem.

Another thing is when engine is at idle and I remove the plug wire there is no change in the idling what so ever but, when revving the car a bit and removing the cable I can hear a slight change like a loss of power.
Which tells me at idle the plug is either,
1. not sparking right or
2. not building enough compression.

I read on a post that blueish white smoke when revving on standstill the valve seals are the problem.
Am I right?

The motor is burning oil because every other day I have to fill the oil up.But why do cylinder 4 not have any power?
Can driving 4miles without oil really cause that much damage?

Please can you guys give me advice.

This car is my life please.
I am guessing valve seals is the first problem because of the smoke?

I have a 94 Honda 1.5 carb, engine d15b3.

rollinmyda

iTrader: (19)

Do a compression test.

tony_2018

Ok...what do you mean by dead cylinder. I'm thinking either no compression or no spark. First thing that hit me was that the oil was low. Starvation not cool.

TomCat39

Compression test followed by a leak down test.

I'm pretty confident compression is pretty low in those cylinders.

W95civicEXcoupe

Yes.

djedd

Thanks so much for the replies guys I really appreciate it.

Quote Rolinmyda Do a compression test.Quote

If the compression test comes out low what can the problem be?
Compression rings, oil rings or valve seals?

Tony_2018 the cylinder has no power, but when I remove the spark plug and test it, it does give spark.
The problem is when I take it out its pitch black full of black ash.
And I agree starvation isn't cool.

I can kick myself for not rather taking my mother to work that day.

Thanks again for all your advice guys.

I am really losing hope that this won't be an easy fix.
This motor really is tough though it has 400k on it and never had any problems until now.

I will try and do the compression test and let you guys know.

djedd

It will not suprise me if it is low.When I start the car it does struggle a bit and has to turn over a couple of times with my foot pushing down on the gas, but when its started it idles ok except for the one cylinder not working, that makes it to stutter.

Former User

Cliffs Notes for daunting wall of text in first post?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Seriously. OP, use spaces and paragraphs. Help us help you.

djedd

Soz about the wall of text.Next time I will get it right.

Do you guys have any advice for me except slandering my writing style?And what or who is an OP?
Obsessive Poster???

Former User

No slander, just trying to give you some good advice. The more people you entice to read your thread with clear and concise writing, the better chance to get lots of good advice.

Original poster - person who created the thread.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

OP = original poster or original post. In this case, you. And no, we don't have advice, because your post is quite literally painful to read. If you actually want some help, your best next move would be to organize your thoughts better, and type in a more easily readable way.

djedd

No problem was just joking.
I appreciate your advice seeing that I am still new at this.It does make reading a bit easier if things are neatly paragraffed.

One question:How do you make a multi quote?
I know this is of topic from the thread, but when I quote it gives me another screen with the quoted text, but I cannot choose the quote option from other posts.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

At the bottom right of every post, there are three buttons. Quote, a little " symbol with a +, and what looks like a feather quill. To multiquote, click on the little " symbol with the +. Click on each one that you want to quote, and on the last one, click the actual "Quote" button. That'll give you a multiquote.

djedd

Dam soz for not being perfect and able to write the way you want me to write.Slit my throat wont you.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Now that we have all of that covered, though, quit pulling out plug wires. That's a really fast way to fry a coil or ICM. Stop it. Buy a proper HEI tester. They're like, $15, and look like this.



Follow the instructions on the package. Tell us what color your spark is on all four cylinders individually. While you're doing that, also do a compression test, and give us the compression numbers for all four cylinders. Remember to do the test at WOT, with the engine at operating temperature.

djedd

Thank you very much NotARaCist appreciate your help.Even if you hate my writing and thinking I still appreciate your help.

If you guys want me to I can edit my 1st post?

djedd

Dam been doing it for years never even thought that it could be bad for the coil or ICM.Does make sense though.

You guys must think I'm an idiot
I will try to do the compression test tommorow and post the results.Can I use the gauge on a compressor to do the test or is the gauge of a compressor measured in higer Psi?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Editing your OP might help you get more answers from more people.

I'm not sure if the gauge on your compressor will work. That gauge is made to show immediate pressure, but you need something that will hold and show peak pressure. You can rent the tool from most major parts stores to do the job correctly - that's what you should do.

TomCat39

I honestly am not sure what you are thinking when you say use the gauge from a compressor.

If you are talking about making your own tester, the gauge itself should be fine. You still need a hose with the proper one way air valve in the spark plug thread end and another release valve at the top.

It's much easier and cheaper to buy even a 25 dollar compression tester from the auto parts store. You can't just use the air valve from a tire stem, it's much too stiff to operate properly. And Snap-On charges nearly 10 bucks for the replacement valves calibrated for compression testers.

djedd

Why do I need to have a wide open throttle (WOT) when doing a compression test?

TomCat39

Because if the throttle is closed, you are not necessarily measuring just the compression of the cylinders, now you are adding your intake manifold into the equation.

WOT puts the pressure behind the valves to your resident air pressure at what ever elevation you are at. Throttle closed, now you are adding the opposition of the intake manifold and throttle body plate being closed to the mix. Where is the air coming from? What affect is that having on the compression capabilities? etc etc.

WOT negates all of that and allows you to get consistent results regardless of intake design.

W95civicEXcoupe

OP, here is a video demonstrating a compression test - and he does so, on a Honda.


You can get a compression tester for $30 and, dare I say it, it works very well. Advance sells it.

djedd

Okay yes I see what you guys are saying.The gauge is not gonna stop at the highest reading that I need and I will need extra parts to modify it to fit the head.
I will rather then just buy the right tool for the job.Thanks a bunch guys.Will report back with those tests.In a day or two.

Lets say the results is low compression.What can I be looking at for the repair?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

It could be a few different things - we'll work from there when we get to that point.