Mr. EG

Lets start by explaining my issue.

Had the car previously running with a B20 VTEC and a stock P28 engine harness. Everything ran perfectly. I now own a 1997 Spec JDm ITR motor that is in my chassis with everything converted to OBD1 (which doesn't really matter considering the issue that I am having).

Currently I am shaving and tucking the engine bay and relocating all the wiring behind the dashboard. the cabin harness is un-cut and I have never had an issue with it before. There are no visible broken wires nor anything that would cause what I am experiencing.

Now onto my issue... With the key on previously (with a Chasebays harness), the fuel pump would not prime and I did not have continuity between my ground and fuel pump pin in the main relay. I replaced all harness's with stock un-cut units and how have a fuel pump prime and power to my ECU along with very nice grounds.

With key on/ engine off/ and clutch down I do not have battery voltage to pin #5 at all, or any power going to my 7.5A fuse under the dash.



Possible ideas-
Clutch switch?
broken wire between fuse box and main relay?
main relay issue?

things I have tried-
functional main relay from the same chassis
both new fuse boxes that came off a running car
checked fuses
checked every single plug to see if they are connected properly

I want to avoid running a jumper wire from my main relay and "hot-wiring' it into my 7.5A fuse.

Here are charts I am going off of...

redscythe09

If you havent cut up the harness yet, check you IGN Fuse, the Big one in the engine Bay. Also make sure you have the Main Relay on the Driver side kick panel connected.

Mr. EG

The main relay is obviously connected? Like i stated all fuses were checked and tested. Does anybody have an intelligent response?

Mr. EG

I attempted to jump the clutch pedal swith (lower one), with no luck. I have power to every wire on the Ignition switch except the BLK/WHT wire.

Show15

The lower one is a cruise control switch. My 93 cx had the same one. It does nothing because our cars didn't come with cruise control. The interlock switch is the one on top. Its not too bad if you just wanna jump it but replacing that switch is a pain. Try jumping the connector and see where that takes you.

Mr. EG

Ah ok. From my research I thought it was the bottom one.

Mr. EG

I ended up figuring it out.

one sick ej1

im having the same problem how did you figuere it out

Mr. EG

It was the "main ground" on the driver side inner firewall. There was corrosion under it which caused the voltage issue.

one sick ej1

where is that one i only see these which is the one of the battery to goes from the negitive post to the chassis on the passenger side, then the one thats off the transmission and the side of the frame,then the one thats off of the fuse box in the engine bay to the altanator, and the one thats in front of the engine bay on the radiator support that connects to the valve cover, and then the last one is the one thats under the starter itself which make the body of the starter a gound on the engine when its bolted on. is their any other ground that im missing. this is on a gsr engine swap on to a 94 civic ex coupe.

Mr. EG