420eg

hi i have a 94 civic cx with a jdm d15b vtec engine
its currently running on a p05 alo1 ecu and its pretty much running bad ..
what ecu can i use for my eg?? please help

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

If you're going to be too lazy to search, most people here will be too lazy to answer your question. Put down the bong next time, and put in a twathair of effort.

Hint: You can find it here, and it starts P0...

420eg

Sorry to bother you! i have looked evrywhere and have looked and i get different answers ... some say p28,p06..? Jst wana make sure before buying one... since mine says vtec-e ... bt thanks ill get a p08..

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

You're not bothering me, I'm just trying to help you become a useful member around here. Yes, the P08 is the one you want.

lunchpale

Your title and content are conflicting. If you have a D15Z1 as your title kind of states, then you need a P07 ecu (someone correct me if i'm wrong).
You are saying you have a JDM D15B VTEC in the post, if that's the case then you need a P08.

I also believe that the D15Z1 was never available in the JDM.

slogfilet

iTrader: (1)

There were three "flavors" of the JDM D15... VTEC, VTEC-E (essentially the same as the D15Z1), and the 3-stage VTEC-E.

The ECU differs across the variants... the 3-Stage VTEC uses the P2J, and there is a difference between the "normal" VTEC and the VTEC-E versions (different VTEC engagement point, EGR, O2, etc.) The JDM D15 VTEC uses a P08 ECU.

If you have a JDM D15 with VTEC-E, the P08 ECU is not correct. It should use a JDM variant of the P07.

slogfilet

iTrader: (1)

Bam. The P84 is the ECU needed for the JDM D15 VTEC-E engine. A USDM P07 might actually be close enough (and better than the P08 or P28).

Did you get this engine for the fuel economy, or do you have other thoughts?

420eg

Its a jdm d15 b7 Vtec-E on 94 civic cx... I have a p28 and a p05 ecu ..im trying to smog my car and need usdm ecu.
Now the problem is that im throwing a CEL CODE 41.. i replce o2 sensor... i rewired the cable staight to ecu . White=d14 ,Green/white= d22 , Yellow black =a25, Orange /black= a6 .im using 4 wire o2 sensor
Still have CEL What else can i do? Also took off the 15 fuse for 10 min or more (reset ecu) still have code 41,.?? I also put either p05 or p28 and same code with CEL CAN ANYONE HELP please?

Former User

Remove 7.5A hood fuse 32 for 3 minutes to reset the ECU.

Does your jdm D15 engine use a 5-wire or 4-wire O2 sensor? If you have a 4-wire sensor, the Yel/Blk wire does not pin to the ECU. It runs to fuse 31.

420eg

I did remove the fuse 15 under hood for like 20 min or 30 still have cel.. its a fire wire o2 and i replace it and rewired still nothing

Former User

As I said, this^ is the wrong fuse.

Did you take the time to read my entire post?

420eg

Ok where is the location of fuse 31 ?

eHMxhACk

iTrader: (17)

Under the hood...







eH.

00silverdxhatch

I have a 48 state p07 ecu if you need one . . . pm me. . . they are extremely rare . . .

In my experience this motor (d15z1) is extremely ridiculous engine to get running correctly. . . unless its in a 92-95 civic VX and you have the correct version of the P07, the correct wire harness for the version of the ECU, and the correct version of the intake for the wire harness and ECU as far as I have seen there are 3 versions of everything for this motor. California Version, 48 State USDM/JDM version, and the CDM version . . . all are slightly different and unless you have everything from the right version it will be hell

420eg

Oh yea dats the fuse ive been taking off fuse 15A still get cel

Former User

Why are you interested in fuse 31?

slogfilet

iTrader: (1)

Just to make sure there's no confusion... the number on the fuse itself refers to its current rating, *not* which fuse it is in the system. Thus, fuse "15A" could be any 15 amp fuse, not necessarily the one you're looking for.

Since you're not running the correct ECU for the engine, could that be the cause of the CEL? Specifically, what brand/model O2 sensor are you using?

00silverdxhatch

Its never going to run correctly or even near acceptable unless you have all the right stuff. . . the Z1 is an extremely tricky motor. its because of the head and its design . . the engine operates on 1 valve ( the second valve opens only slightly as to not let fuel pool on it.) until 3200 rpm normally. The engine requires a Wideband O2 sensor, the correct intake, the correct harness, an intake with an exhaust gas recirculation system . . ., the correct version of p07 ( to match the egr, o2, and intake) it is meant to run on a AFR of 22.5:1 under 3200 rpm . .. . you will NEVER pass an etest unless its setup properly

your best bet is to get a d15b7 head and put it on there. Use the d15b7 ecu . .. I am telling you this from personal experience and many many many hundreds of hours trying different things to make it run even half proper . . .

or even a Z6 head with a P28 and wire harness . . .. even switching the valve train to the Z6, to make the valves both open has little chance of making it right.

Give up on this setup unless you can afford all the proper stuff. . . ( the proper o2 sensor alone is just as much as a new engine from the importers)

eHMxhACk

iTrader: (17)

Corrected. The D15Z1 is a 16 valve engine that, while below 2500 rpm, will operate on 12 valves - two exhaust and one intake valve per cylinder. Above 2500 rpm, VTEC-E engages and the engine operates on all 16 valves.





eH.

baller status

The proper O2 sensor is $150 on Amazon. NTK brand (OEM). Just ordered one when it dropped to $139. Prices have returned to normal now that the sensor is no longer used by tuners and wideband gauges. The engine is about $650.

There are two versions of ECU that matter, one with an onboard wideband controller and one without. The EGR is on both versions. Yes, the O2 sensor has to match the ECU. It's not at all hard to get it working correctly.

The P07 isn't that rare. Not the Cali version, not the fed version. A little harder to find, sure. I have a spare. People still throw them and the engine away like they're nothing.

00silverdxhatch

I haven't bought a 5 wire O2 sensor in years, that's awesome there cheap now . . . the engine from importers around Toronto is 600 with a transmission 350 for the block . . . . Z6 and B7 equivalents are $250 There are several wideband o2 sensors . . only 1 or 2 work with Honda's properly . . . the p07 here in Canada is really RARE . . furthermore . .. if you have to post on the forums which fuse it is to remove to reset your ecu you in no way have the capacity to get a Z1 working properly . .

EhMxHack . .. its around 3200 rpm . . . . for the P07 . . .. I-vtec motors are around 2500 . . ..

Im in Canada . .. maybe in the USA . .. where there are millions more people and millions more cars . .. things are easier to find . ..

and people who toss these things away have no idea what gold they posses in their hands . .. a P07 on ecco modder is 200 for 5spd and 150 for auto . . . . and there not posted for sale often . ..

eHMxhACk

iTrader: (17)

EDIT: Min. 2500 rpm for the D15Z1 engine, P07 ECU. Looks like from the chart below is it ~3200 rpm for VTEC-E 16 valve operation depending on other factors.



I've never heard of a P07 automatic. I have an extra 49 states P07 that I'll sell you for $100 and you can sell it on Ecomodder for $200.





eH.

Former User

I'll one up you.

If you are perplexed about which fuse to remove to reset your ecu, even after being told, then you may lack the necessary aptitude for working on cars.

baller status

There was no D15Z1 paired with an automatic. Certainly not in the states and most likely not anywhere. The D16Y5 had the option of a CVT.

It's $150 for the OEM O2 sensor, but obviously not from a dealer.

Load isn't a factor in VTEC-E engagement despite what that says. Mine is a 92 CA model (wideband), so maybe it's different for later models. I wired an unused dash cluster light to light up with VTEC just to get a full understanding of it. I wanted to know whether to attribute the rough transition I sometimes felt to lean burn or VTEC-E. VTEC-E is RPM dependent and will even engage when I'm off the throttle and coasting downhill in low gear. This is not the case for VTEC which requires a lot of engine load.

I have found many discrepancies with the Helms so I'm not surprised.

What I am surprised about is that people don't seem to know as much about the VX and HX as they once did. Forum members come and go I guess.