Fitment

I recently bought a 1994 honda civic cx hatchback.
It was just a rolling shell with a HORRIBLE wire tuck/ spliced/ cut / soldered/ wires everywhere.
I dropped in d16z6 ported head with a stage 2 cams and bc springs and retainers.
52,600 miles on the stock engine block
Syncro tech transmission


---detailed timeline--
I was not okay with the cut up wiring at all but i was more worried about getting my motor in and being able to get back and forth to work.
well this is when the series of unfortunate events began, got everything in and realized i was not getting any fuel, well a connector in the engine bay, chassis side was pretty broken and oddly enough treating it like a Nintendo cartridge blowing on it got the fuel pump to prime every time, so i fixed that problem with depinning and repinning in a new connector, new fuel pump kicks in strong car ran okay.
kind of a loss on power which seemed odd from what specs i had at the time
after a few days of driving i adjusted my valves and took her for spin and the car kept dying, i barely made it home.
Now i knew i had a v-tec code at the time but i decided to pull codes anyways and the eld code popped up, well after days and days of trying to figure it out with my cam gear snapping off the cam and breaking both gear and cam shaft bending my valves fixing every cut and split in every wire i gave up and tore my STOCK 1995 ex-coupe apart and swapped my entire cabin harness over.
no codes popped up, swapped my old d16z6 head in with 150/150/150/180 compression across the board, the car gets blue spark, the car gets fuel, the car gets air, timing has been checked spot on but Will not start.
every fuse is good, every wire is uncut besides age on the engine harness (i have two of them and both are doing the same thing) Ecu is tuned and also have a stock untouched un opened p28 / three different dizzys two being brand new, three different sets of plugs and wires 2 main relays)

Summarized events

-replaced entire cabin harness including the one that runs from the front of the car to the fuel pump
-replaced head/head gasket
tried two different ecus/main relays/3 different dizzys/ different fuel pump/ different intake mani gasket/ 2 different engine harness
re did all my ground on the outside and three known ones on the inside.

Things i removed completely

No valve cover ground, never was.
srs module and all of its wires because i have no air bags. (this is my main concern if this might be the issue because it goes into the PGMFI fuse box and is also grounded) ( regrounded and plugged back into the fuse box but is not plugged back into the module itself, trying that in the morning)
cruise control module (tested and plugged back in no difference)

only things i havnt replaced
ignition switch (started the car before any of this happened so i dont think it can be that seeing as the car cranks all day but won't start)
Starter was bought about 2 months ago and seems to be working fine, The car just continues to crank and no start.


sorry if this thread is kind of confusing, i've never planned to make one before but i seriosly dont know what is going on with ther car has everything it needs to start, but wont start.

mk378

Ground wires on thermostat loose / not hooked up
Spark wires in wrong order
Distributor 180 degrees out of time
No compression (did you test compression after assembling the new configuration?)
Do you have power to the injectors? Unplug an injector and put a 194 bulb with the wires bent out ("noid light") in the plug, bulb should flash when you crank.

Fitment

additional information.
I have used a second complete intake manifold.|
I am very concerned i am missing something crucial in the cabin. something is not allowing it to start.

mk378

Check wire colors on all sensors around the intake to make sure not mis-plugged. The plugs on a Honda are not "idiot proof" keyed like other cars.
Take fuel return hose off and make sure fuel is going through the rail. Testing after the regulator is preferred because that proves fuel pump is making enough pressure to open the regulator, which should be normal pressure unless regulator is bad.

Fitment

i checked, all seems good, i also went the extra mile and traced them back to the connectors and to the ecu.
Starting fluid won't even get it to start up. ):

Fitment

I really think i am missing something within the cabin.
anyone have any list of what's crucial for the inside cabin for the car to crank?

mk378

Really all that happens inside the cabin is the fuse box, ECU / main relay and fuel pump wiring. These models don't have an "immobilizer" anti theft system unless something third-party was added. If sparks and fuel pump and injectors are working all that stuff should be OK.

Check that the sparks can jump 1/2 inch in open air. Blown coils that throw weak sparks are common.

Fitment

FIGRED IT OUT!!!
My fuel pump had a hole in the inner hose causing the fuel to be weak!

Thanks everyone for the suggestions

Former User

For the future, you should state the actual car problem right at the beginning of your thread. Luckily mk had the patience to read your wall of text and decipher the actual problem.