BudWheel

I have a 93 Honda Del Sol that I bought and trying to get on the road. Many problems have been fixed still a few to go but I can fix whats left. This on the other hand I think I know the answer but not quite sure.

My rev limiter kicks in at 4k to 5k RPMs while in Drive just before it can shift unless I granny it then all is well. If I drive normally or floor it the limiter kicks in and won't shift unless I let off the pedal.
When I bought this I was told it had a mini me setup in it which made me buy otherwise this car was is a piece.

Now to what I think is wrong with it. The engine was swapped with a D15B2 and it has a P06 ECU in it. I'm thinking I need a PM5 ECU? I don't know what trans I have except that its an automatic. If that is what I need, how would that work cause the wiring is different on that ECU and would not plug into the harness of my car? Hopefully I don't need to swap harnesses or the engine to fix my issue or maybe there is something else I could try?

TomCat39

D15B2 and D15B7 are nearly identical. The P06 runs a D15B7 so should be okay on the B2. The D15B2 is a pretty good match-up to replace a blown D15B7

However, you have an automatic, so there is a cable that runs from the throttle pulley down to the transmission. If it's not adjusted properly, your shift points will be incorrect.

Let me get you the page on it. Will edit this post once I find it.

mk378

CEL on for any reason will impose a rev limiter. This is called "limp mode" (aka "I have to granny it").

So, If there is a code set, resolve it before expecting the car to drive properly.

I think the normal redline is about 6000, which will let the auto shift even with it "kicked down" into waiting for a high rpm to shift because the pedal is floored.

BudWheel

The cable seems to be adjusted fine even though there is absolutely no room for adjustment on the throttle control cable side. There are no codes on the ECM all of those have been fixed.

I took my car to have it inspected and it passed But I thought it wasn't going to make it there. I couldn't make it over 3k RPMs and it took me a 5 mile stretch to make it to 55 MPH. Actually I had to drop it into 2nd gear and slowly accelerate and when I got to speed would shift to D4. If I was to try and get to speed in D4 it wouldn't even go past 30 MPH. While in D4 at 55 MPH the car would coast just fine but if I was to accelerate I would lose all power and start losing speed.

mk378

"No power, and can't rev over 3000" is the classic symptom of the timing belt having skipped a tooth.

BudWheel

Let me check. Its been running good at idle and pushing the throttle so I never thought about looking and someone did put a head on before i bought it.

BudWheel

Just check it and that wasn't the problem. #1 is at TDC and the cam gear is in the UP position.

mk378

Are the slash marks on the sides and at 7 o'clock of the cam gear aligned?

You can also check spark timing if it is way off and you can't bring it in near the center of the adjustment range, timing belt is wrong. Be sure to put the ECU jumper in for checking spark timing.

BudWheel

The gear I have doesn't have the slash marks on the sides. Also I do not have any of the covers on the side of the engine.

TomCat39

Which style cam gear do you have?

I have the B7 (should be like the B2) and the Y8 compared and in the photo's you can clearly see the side marks that are supposed to be level with the head when the up is up to identify TDC on the cam.

Without the outer lower timing cover, besides checking ignition timing, you can only physically check mechanical timing precisely by the timing belt gear and the arrow on the block. That would mean pulling the crank pulley off. With the two you can verify mechanical timing is perfectly set.

mk378

You really should have timing covers because if a stone or some other foreign object were to fall in and strip the timing belt, it's a blown engine.

Since you don't have marks on the crank, remove spark plug #1 and probe in the cylinder to find when the piston comes all the way up. There should always be marks on the cam gear. With the engine at TDC if you remove the distributor the drive slot in the end of the camshaft should be straight up and down, but that is not easy to see exactly.

BudWheel

I know its been a while since I posted on here but thought I should go a head and tell yall whats going on.
I finally got all of the parts. Used harmonic balancer a cam gear with marks and all the covers. Installed everything got the timing set and the car started right up. Drives good so far but haven't put it on the road yet. Need to get plates and get it up to speed and see what happens.
I do have a new issue though. I have a knocking noise right at the cam gear. I used my stethoscope and it is loud at the gear but no noise what so ever by taking the cover off and listening to the valves and Cam spinning. Then go on the outside of the head and put the scope on the cover behind the gear and it is very loud. Any ideas?