TunerFreak24

I have a 93 Honda Civic del Sol Si with a d16 engine and recently I have been having some trouble with accelerating. The best way I can explain it is that when I accelerate it will seem to sputter until I get to about 3000 rpms and then it seems to have no problem after that. But it will only do that once the car is warmed up and then will also sputter when I am idling when I am stopped.

delsolo95

Any CEL? When was last tune up plugs, wire, cap n rotor?

TunerFreak24

No CEL. Forgot to mention that I checked the spark plugs for being fouled and they looked normal, and I checked the fuel injectors and they seemed to be working fine as well but that was just a quick check without removing any of them.

ben8ny

timing should be check as well i had the same problem when i just rebuilt my engine without setting the timing properly

TunerFreak24

Supposedly my next door neighbor had owned my car before me & sold it to the dealer & he claimed to have swapped engines. I haven't went in depth to look at the the engine to see that it has been because it is the same for my model but I have had the car for over 3 years & if it was timing, would it not have been doing that sooner? I am learning my car stuff so that is a reason for all the questions.

Former User

Do a tune up (plug wires, cap, and rotor) and then set the ignition timing to spec using a timing gun.

TunerFreak24

Ive done most of the tune since i had the car (Plugs & cap) but Im not thinking its the timing. Maybe I didnt describe the problem correctly & maybe theres a better way to describe it. Someone else I talked to suggested that maybe theres something clogging up my exhaust & I think that might choke up the car. I had my steering rack subframe replace just over a week ago & to get that off the exhaust had to be removed & think maybe something got put together wrong or left in there thats clogging it up. Just suggestions.

Former User

An engine with an obstructed exhaust would not get better at higher rpms. Start with the basics that I mentioned and then go from there.

TunerFreak24

I messed with it a little bit a little while ago and it seemed to struggle when I gave it hard acceleration until I let off, could that be something obstructing it?

tuck1crx

TunerFreak24

How easy (or hard) is it to do the ignition timing by myself? I would like to save as much money as possible but I do not want to ruin the engine.

92shade

try reducing the gap on all your spark plugs to half of what they are now his will tell you if your coil is weak

hondadude_rudo

im having this exact same problem with a ef i have been working on for a friend. full z6 swap with obd1 conversion and p28 ecu. ive tried tps, iacv, map, plugs, wires, and it got a reman dizzy when i did the conversion last week as well as a new o2 sensor. all of the wiring is perfect (ive done more than 10 of these lol) it ran awsome for the first day, then has been running worse every day sense. im thinking its just a bad remanned dizzy thats slowly taking a crap. wont have a new one to try till thurs though.

the car runs fine when cold then once at temp it idles at like 400 rpm and very rough. it has a bad hesitation until after 3000rpm then it runs perfect. its also not throwing any codes other than ones i cause it to throw from unpluging sensors while running.

TunerFreak24

Yeah I got it figured out on mine. Went to auto shop and talked over it while looking at it only to find out that the #2 spark plug wasn't firing consistently so what gave me the rough idle and acceleration. There was something inside my dizzy cap and that was probably taking part of the arc from the #2 plug. After cleaning that out its running fine so far. He had said the dizzy bearing could be bad and the higher the rpms were the smoother it would get so I will be running it for a little bit. The rotor was bad so I am replacing that and assuming that the crap in the dizzy cap came from the rotor because it was not in very good condition. Thanks for the advice and I think that I may have described it wrong in a sense.

hondadude_rudo

glad to hear you got it figured out. dizzy didnt fix the one im working on. so far, new ect, new dizzy, cap, rotor, tried diff ecu, new tps, map, o2, timing set to spec, known good fpr, known good throttle body, known good iacv, diff spark plug wires, even tried a diff charcoal canister and still have the problem. car runs great cold, them idles low and very choppy. no consistent missfire on any cyl. kind of idles like a carbed 750cc sport bike. just really choppy. it dont surge or anything though. it sputters while cruising, then if you floor it, it pulls smooth, or if you give it 3/4 throttle and back out, it starts driving smooth till under steady load again. its quite confusing. im stating to believe its a fuel problem, but the thing realy hauls a$$ from 5k to red line (for what it is at least lol) it actually has an audiable and feelable vtec crossover which is quite odd for a single cam. to make things realy odd, it idles alot better, and even runs better if i give it a vacuum leak by unhooking the line from the nipple on the back of the im manifold.

boostedefhatch

check your dizzy, and timing.

hondegras

i had the same exact problem with my eg hatch it would sputter real bad at low rpms and then a little later also did it at high rpms as well and i found out my tps sensor and map sensor were bad so i changed them out and also did a complete tune up while i was at it then reset my ecu and now my baby runs like a champ no more problems

BryanM.

iTrader: (1)

In the same amount of time you could just Ohm test the coil...



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delsolintegra

I had the same problem with my sol.
It was the simplest thing - plug wires!!!

techmage916

this is exactly the problem i am having with my d16z6.