vartok

back in 2011 i installed "Eibach Springs Sport-System Kit 4.1740.780" on my car. i had a bit of rubbing issues on the front but thta ended up being because i had the wrong size tire.

i revently went up to 15 inch wheels and got a set of 195/50/15 tires and im back to rubbing, but now on the front and rear. but only on the drives side. its much worse in the back than the front.

i bought a fender roller from eastwood and it fixed the rubbing in the front... but i just cant seem to get the rear to do much... but the thing is... when i lift the car and set it back down, the wheel gap is much better. The first pic is right after i set the car down and the second is after about a mile or two drive with a few bumps and hard corners.

B_Swapped93

on what shocks doe

hopefully not stock if so there's your answer the last part really makes me say blown shocks

vartok

oh no, the kit was springs and matched shocks

B_Swapped93

what springs rates ?


I vote go with either a camber kit to tuck the wheel in more and sacrifice the tires or get a lp tires.

vartok

not sure what the rates are... they might be progressive.

and ive thought about the camber... i actually have the kit on there.. didnt rub till i had the alighment done... sadly there arnt any shops aroundhere that will do anything but factory spec..

bamaland601

iTrader: (1)

theres your problem then
if they aligned you at factory spec while having all the upgrades its no wonder your rubbing.

push in your camber and nothing else.

B_Swapped93

I'd assume something like 4-5K rear rate, not really important tbh.

eye ball it or max them out camber won't ruin your tires like "toe" will I have -5* all around not to fit stupid hellafush rims but for time attack I wouldn't do it if it ruined the tires to a degree where I was throwing away what I spent on my RA1's. it's up to you I see they have a 500 tread wear you'd be fine with some negative camber.


Edit:roll the rear fenders that's what it's hitting on I bet

vartok

i did try to roll the fender, but i couldnt get it to move much... i did figure it out though. i had to but a block under the suspension for the rear. the fenders back there are much thicker and the suspension was moving rather than pitting more force on the metal. fender no longer hits the sidewall... but the corner of the bumper does... thats alot better than the metal fender digging into the sidewall.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Shocks don't control ride height on these cars. Springs do.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

The back of the car will be jacked up like that till you take off the E brake. That ride height looks about right for eibach sportlines. They didn't sag. Your bushings took a set. The bushings will tear apart if you tightened all the suspension bolts while the car was in the air, BTW.

B_Swapped93

yes



I just assumed he had been driving around on them and had the tires rubbing over bumps so my first thought was blown shocks as mine did that when I first got my civic.

crazyhouse2011

Wait. When i jack my car up, do work, then lower the car, it takes a bit before the car settles, as in it almost looks like it sits higher for a bit. A quick drive will set it right. Does that mean my shocks are blown too? They definitely look old, probably factory ones at 146k miles. Difference in before/after is similar to OP's, just with stock height instead of lowered.

And @ the OP:

You better get that rust fixed before it eats out holes in the metal. As in ASAP.

B_Swapped93

No that's normal when i had a shock+spring combo it did that all the time after I jacked it up all I'd have to do was release the e-brake but now with coilovers it doesn't do that. IDK... is your car lowered on springs with the original shocks ? you should not lower a car on factory shocks especially old ones. when I got my civic it came like that was the worst thing ever !

vartok

2 things... I actually dont have the ebrake connected... never picked up the new cables after i put on the rear disks from a integra.

and i have all the bushings changed out for polly ones, and with thoughs, id doesnt matter if you torque them down in the air or not because the inner collar isnt fixed to the bushing.

been like that for a good year now... and the other side is worse... its on my list of stuff to fix, but shes getting a new motor first... that and i cant weld to save my life, so im still trying to track down someone to weld in the new panels... the gonna paint the whole car... i hate white...

instrument

You can at least treat the rust tho stop it from spreading.

Your tires shouldn't rub at that size, what your rim offset?

vartok

i wanna say its +38

B serious

iTrader: (1)

That has nothing to do with your shocks. They could be completely blown or brand new. The car will do that. It's normal.

vartok

Not really good with body work... What would you do to stop it?

And they are +38 offset... Is that part of my problem?

P-M-B,93EXsedan

Wire brush or wire wheel on a power drill. That'l take the rust off. Then get a can of paint and cover up the bare metal.

do not do what I did. I cut out all the rust with a cutting wheel. Then just left it alone for a month.. Its bad.

bamaland601

iTrader: (1)

like pmb said, wire wheel or a DA sander, but if you have pits or holes afterwards you need to use stop rust primer. fill in any holes/pits with bondo (most auto stores carry a $30 kit which is more than enough) then primer it again once dry and then paint/clearcoat

vartok

Oh, well the other side is a bit worse... But if I could fix it without the panel.. I might be able to get it repainted sooner than I though... Can someone point me to a decent video on how to do it?