93hatchbake

I've got no power to my fuel pump and no power to my coil when I turn the key. Since my car stopped on me ive replaced the fuel pump, ign switch, taken my harness out and checked the wires for breaks, replaced my ecu with a used one, bought a new oem main relay, and new distributor. None of my fuses are burnt out. Checked and cleaned all my grounds especially the one on the thermostat. Checked for continuity on those wires and the ones going to the distributor from the ecu. My speedo went out about a month before this. Ive checked about 30 forums with the same problems and none of them have solved my problem. I've noticed that the wire that gives power to my distributor from the ecu has 12v on it until I turn the key all the way then it goes to nothing. Is this normal? Is it just two bad computers? I don't mind buying a new one but is there something blowing them out that I need to take care of first? Someone please help I'm getting tired of workin on it and I need a job bad!

Former User

Voltage test fuses 24 and 31. Click the Fuses link in my signature.

93hatchbake

Under dash 24 and under hood 31 both have 12v

Former User

Both test tabs of each fuse?

magichands

You said you replaced the ignition switch. are you talking about the electrical part or the key?

93hatchbake

Yea tested both tabs on each fuse and yes electrical switch behind the lock and cylinder.

Former User

When you turn the key from OFF to ON(II), does the CEL remain on steady?

93hatchbake

Cel remains on

Former User

This^ tells you the ignition switch is fine.

1) Check whether the G101 ground wire attached to the thermostat housing is clean and tight.

2) Unplug the main relay and test whether the connector gets battery voltage from fuse 24 [key in ON(II)] and fuse 31 [key off].

93hatchbake

Yes I get voltage to the relay with key on and off. Also when I jump 5 to 7 on relay pump turns on and 1 to 7 pump turns on.

93hatchbake

Also bench tested the relay and it tests fine

93hatchbake

Yea cleaned and tightened the g101 ground 3 times. Also tested continuity on those grounds and they work fine. Also tested the ground for the pump in the back seat and it is good

93hatchbake

5 to 7 on relay only when the key is on like its supposed to

Former User

Turn key off.

Unplug ECU connector A.

Turn key to ON(II).

Ground pin A7 or A8 in the unplugged connector.

Does the fuel pump run as long as the pin is grounded?

93hatchbake

I have a p28 bc I've got a d16z6 in it. Are they going to be the same pins I ground?

Former User

Same pins.

93hatchbake

Those should be the two green and yellow wires that come from the fuel relay correct? And ground them on the connector side not ecu side?

Former User

Yes, Grn/Yel wires on the connector side.

93hatchbake

Sorry yea the both work. I must not have had the wire in there all the way

Former User

Good.

Now also unplug ECU connector B.

With key in ON(II), do A25 and B1 have battery voltage to body ground?

With key off, do pins A26 and B2 have continuity to body ground?

93hatchbake

Yea those check out right

Former User

The ECU is bad.

93hatchbake

Awesome but I had a diff one and its ok if its bad but do you think something is causing them to go bad or is the other one i bought just bad to begin with. It was used so could be.

Former User

Triple check to verify that no sensor connectors are swapped. Make sure wire colors match each sensor.

This is also possible.

93hatchbake

Ok thanks for all your help man. Ima get a new one from advanced and check my wires again. Thank you thank you thank you.