Ronnoc74

I'm in the process of swapping my stock cluster for a '00 ls cluster. I did all the wiring according to the thread on here about it (https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/94-97-98-01-integra-cluster-into-92-95-96-00-civic-wiring-diagrams-1053318/), and everything works except the e-brake light. I was having a problem with the cluster lights and climate control lights not coming on because the PO took the dimmer switch out and cut the wires but to fix that I just wired the black and red wires coming off of it together and now the cluster lights work but the climate control lights still don't.

About a month ago I did the lights-on chime retrofit that Deshlong did the DIY about and that worked perfectly up until when I went out to finish up the wiring on the cluster today. Now my dome light and the lights-on chime wont work. I checked my fuses and they're all good.
What could be the cause of this?

H22AFerio

honestly it sound like you have quite a mess of wiring there, I would go to your local parts yard and get another dash harness and start from scratch. othewise your gonna have one hell of a headache.

Ronnoc74

I've thought about that but pretty much every junkyard around me that has any civic's have already been picked through and there's no wiring at all left..

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Dome light won't turn on at all or just when the door's open? How is the switch at the door jam? Fiddle with it. Test to see if LT GRN/RED (or it might be GRN/RED) at the dome light is grounded when your door is open. I trust you know how to do this with a multimeter or test light.

PS. Meh, this is salvageable. Though I do have an aversion to clusters from non-5G Civics being retrofit.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

I find this incredible. Most Civics around me get sent to the crusher 60-70% intact.

Ronnoc74

It won't turn on at all. I just tested the switches with a test light and they're good.

I was going to get a normal eg cluster but no one around my area has been selling any for quite a while and I found the ls cluster for dirt cheap so I figured I would give it a shot. If I end up not liking it, I can always go back, I kept the stock pigtails that were in there.

Ronnoc74

At the junkyard near me, they usually get all the good stuff picked within a week or two of them being brought into the yard.

At one junkyard the prices are so outrageous I won't even go there to look. I needed a iacv once and I was expecting to pay $5-10 and the guy charged me $20..

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

OK, so you're telling me that LT GRN/RED can be grounded properly. This is important because the switch at the door is common to both the dome light and the lights-on indicator. Does the dome light turn on at all? (Switch it to ON) How is the bulb? I realize you were working on your cluster and think the problem has to do with that, but we need to be methodical about this.

Ronnoc74

There's one of those ebay LED lights in there from the PO. I tested it and it works.
I don't understand how it worked fine last night then twelve hours later it doesn't work at all...

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

OK we need to be clearer here. You tested it ... so the bulb works fine. But does it turn ON in the dome light when you set it to ON?

Ronnoc74

sorry i wasn't clear. the light works but no it doesn't turn on at all in any position.

H22AFerio

Damn, Well if you can maybe post some pictures I can help you out a lil more.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

LEDs are fickle about directionality. Did you insert it both ways? (ie., if it didn't work one way, flip it around...)

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

How is #3 fuse in the under-dash fuse box? Don't just look at it, replace it with another 7.5A fuse and try that one.

#3 provides power to both the dome light, hatch light (if you have one), and the ICU.

H22AFerio

x2

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

... which leads me to the question - do any features of your ICU work? What about the key-in indicator? Intermittent front wipers?

Ronnoc74

the key-in indicator is the thing that beeps when you put the key in, correct? if so that never worked on my car because I have no ignition cylinder.
And the wiper switch on my car doesn't have the intermittent option, its either off, low, or hi.
I swapped the 7.5 with another that was in the fuse box and that didn't help it. I don't have any other 7.5's laying around in the garage..

Ronnoc74

what should I take pictures of? the cluster wiring or the icu stuff or something else?

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Jesus. No ignition? Are you resurrecting this vehicle from the dead? Well, at least you'll know now that you can get yourself a wiper switch with the front INT wiper function because now that you have the Integra ICU in there you'll have INT front wipers.

What about the seat belt warning audio alarm? Does that work? Should go off when the seat belt icon in your cluster is on. And don't tell me it's broken or the PO fcuked that up too.

Ronnoc74

I might as well be. I barely got this car home. and it was about a 40 mile drive home. I was wayy overcharged for it too. When I got it, the brakes were shot the clutch lines were all messed up, The interior was mismatched and mostly missing, the struts were shot along with the springs, there are many more things.
I have since done a complete rear disc swap (Master cylinder, brake booster, e-brake lines, 40/40 prop valve, ect.), replaced the clutch hose along with the master and slave cylinder for the clutch, gotten all black interior (the only thing I don't have is the rear interior panels and the B pillars) Pulled out the majority of the jank wiring he had in there for the cooling fan switch he had wired up, lowered it on skunk2 adj. coilovers. there's more than that though..
I might as well be bringing it back haha.
I'm sorry to tell you but There's not a plug in my car for the seat-belt thing to plug into....

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Well applause taking on such a monumental task. The PO should be brought behind the barn and ... well, you know what happens there.

All right well as a last resort you're going to have to test for voltage at the WHT/BLU wire in the dome light. Set multimeter to V and see if you get battery voltage when you connect the red lead to WHT/BLU and black lead to a GND bolt (there's one inside the dome light if memory serves). If you don't then you have a problem with power getting to your light and probably the ICU too.

This is a long shot but you should check your #36 (50A) fuse in the under HOOD fuse box. If you don't have an extra one, try checking for continuity across both sides of the fuse ... and maybe swap with another known good 50A fuse in the box.

Ronnoc74

I don't have a volt meter with me. I'll have to borrow my dads later on tonight. What would I do if that wire has continuity and I'm still having these problems? Could it be that the ICU is bad? and that is causing all these problems?
I just went out and looked at the wires coming out of the dome light and there's a LT GRN/RED and a WHT/RED wire. no WHT/BLU wires..

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

That's possible. You could try your old ICU in there but that would require a bunch of fiddling under there again which would be a pain. How is fuse #36?

Ronnoc74

not only fiddling, I would have to re-pin the old connector and try not to crack the icu trying to get it out..
I'm not sure which one was #36 but there was two 50 amps under there, an ignition and an option. they both looked good but the ignition one had a little more corrosion on it than the others, and it was barely any.
I'm going to get the volt meter now so I can test the continuity.

I really appreciate you helping me out. Without your help, I wouldn't know what to do...

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Oh, and just to be sure... your lights work and all other electrical works normally, except for the dome and the lights-on indicator/chime?

Did you swap the 50A fuses?