White_EG1

Alright I been having this problem ever since I got the car, after driving usually in a warmer temp, upon restart the car will idle at 1500 then just die. I replaced dizzy cap and rotor, spark plugs are 1k miles new, spark wires are new. Fuel filter has even recently been replaced. Timing is at spec also.

TomCat39

And this car is one of those bike cars with an old indian motorcycle motor in it?

joey1320

Its actually a Flinstome car, so the op just needs new shoe soles.

White_EG1

My bad guys, its a 93 honda civic d15b7 5spd with simple bolt ons.

Former User

Post up the CEL codes.

White_EG1

Also there is no cel. I've cleaned out the IACV and cleaned and set the fitv to spec.

Former User

Do the CEL work?

White_EG1

Yes I just got one the other day for IACV cleaned it out and reset ecu and it went away. The cel comes on with the key in the (ll) position. If I try to cycle the key 30 times listening for the fuel pump it will prime only 23 times. Does this coincide with a main relay issue?

Former User

In the seven times that the pump didn't prime, did the CEL remain on steady?

White_EG1

No, but this did happen before upon a start up. What does that mean please?

TomCat39

On the OBD1 D15B7 the start up idle idle is controlled by the Fast Idle Thermo Valve. It hold the rpm at 1500 until the engine starts to warm up and drops as the coolant heats up. It's 100% mechanical so is not connected to the wire harness.

It may not be related to your issue but it's something you may want to keep in mind if Ron's direction doesn't pan out.

Former User

What did happen?

Are you saying that the CEL never remains on steady when you turn key to ON(II) and pump doesn't prime?

White_EG1

The cel comes on and off for 2 seconds when in the (ll) position like normal. But when I'm having these issues, the cel has stayed on when in the (ll) position and no fuel pump prime it only does this intermittently.

Former User

Could also be cause of stall.

Some obvious possibilities:

-Clean and tighten G101 ground on thermostat housing
-Resolder main relay
-Bad ECU

White_EG1

Is that the ground by the tranny? Anyway to go about diagnosing before I get a ecu or main relay?

Former User

G101 is on the thermostat housing. G3 connects the transmission to the chassis.

For the main relay, just resolder it and go from there.

Main Relay Fix, Troubleshooting (Honda, Acura) and how to solder

You can't really test the ECU directly. There are electrical tests that can be done at the ECU connectors, but first rule in or out the first items two I mentioned.

White_EG1

This?

Former User

I see the bolt but not the attached ground wire.

White_EG1

The wire is the ground I believe. It's goes into a electrical connecter.

Former User

Didn't see it connected.

White_EG1

So your saying possible its the FITV? It looked fine. Actually my normal start up rpm is 1700. I know its gonna stall when it only goes to 1500.

Also ron, my alternator I believe is going out. It still gets proper voltage oddly, but it makes a horrible whining sound when you put any load on it. Anytime I turn on the lights it makes even louder. Keep in mind I have jump started this car atleast 4 times, due to leaving the lights on. It sounds like the pitch got worse every since. Could this be my problem?

Former User

It is minimally a problem

White_EG1

Well I'm gonna go and get a duralast main relay, I'll report back.

TomCat39

I'm just saying the FITV controls the fast idle at start up, that it's 100% mechanical and that it's not connected to the wire harness so will not throw a CEL if there is a problem with it.

Beyond that, I was leaving you to RonJ's capable hands as he is more knowledgeable than I on diagnostics.

For one thing, I'm not sure the FITV can stall the car if it's acting up. I look at the FITV as an automatic choke. Essentially controlling air to fuel ratio when the engine is cold. But my assumed impression of what the FITV is and does is just that, assumed. I do know it can affect idle and cause idle hunting but that is not the problem you reported. So really I was just tossing the FITV out there for RonJ to either confirm or deny as a possible culprit as it won't cause a CEL like the IACV does or any other wired sensor.

White_EG1

Is the main relay supposed to be hot when you drive? Took it for a trip and felt on it and it was pretty warm. Does this rule it out as faulty all together?