roco149

93 Honda Accord.
Car shakes, vibrates when moderate braking at about 70 kph and above.
Worse at speeds up to 100 kph and even light braking.
Hard braking is not so bad.
Has occurred since replacing drive shafts but mechanic says it's warped rotor(s).

jonsey1886

Manual or automatic trans?

roco149

Hi Jonsey, Thanks for replying.
I'm in Brisbane (Australia), so there's quite a time difference.
It's an auto. Has done only 190,000 km (approx 120,000 miles).
Bought second hand 3 years ago at 120,000 km.
Had a vibration when tight cornering. Mechanic replaced drive shafts.
Turned out they were renovated second hand shafts and caused shaking when accelerating.
Another garage of their chain replaced those for free, and I have had the brake shuddering since then, not bad at first but getting slowly worse.
Went back to the same garage and they said I need new rotor assemblies as the rotors would be distorted from brake heat.
(I haven't done any heavy, prolonged braking that I can remember).
Btw. I think this is the wrong section to post in, being for civic, and don't know how to move it to the accord section. (?)
New to this.

jonsey1886

You can ask a forum moderator to move it, they should oblige no problem. This problem is actually indicative of the "technician" using what us techs here in the US jokingly call the "ugga-dugga" scale when tightening wheel lug nuts, simply put they put the impact gun to it and run the lugs on until they stop spinning instead of using a torque limiting device or running them on slowly and then finishing with a torque wrench. This causes the nuts to be severely over torqued and then impart that extra force to the rotor eventually warping it. The easy solution is to get access to a quality torque wrench from Top-Tul, Snap-On, Carlyle, etc (search on eBay or a local classifieds website for Brisbane similar to Craigslist) and loosen the lugs then torque them back to 80lb/ft. If the vibration goes away you're fine. If not purchase a set of quality brake pads, brake hardware, rotors, and good silicone based brake lubricant as well as brake cleaner and brake fluid. Change out the pads & rotors yourself with a set of basic sockets and wrenches and save some $$$ (Aus) because chances are if those are the original pads & rotors at 190km they are long overdue for a change. Videos with specific instructions can be had on YouTube.

Example of quality torque wrench here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carlyle-NAP...gAAOSwgcVa4j4R

Front Pads: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...167218&jsn=538
Front Rotors 2 Door & 4 Door Models: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=614&jsn=614
Station Wagon Models: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...167218&jsn=623
Hardware: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...167218&jsn=669

Brake cleaner, fluid, and lubricant can be purchased at any auto parts store.

roco149

Hi Jonsey,
Thanks for all your advice and info. Very much appreciated.
Sure sounds like the guys that did the drive shafts might have done exactly what you describe.
I don't have the facilities to do it myself, but have booked into a dealer's workshop to have it looked at Monday.
If they can fix it simply, by loosening off the nuts and re-tension them properly that will be great.
Otherwise, I might have to go back to the guys that did the shafts and argue with them. Don't trust them 'tho.
If the dealer does it I might have to wait a while to save up :-)
Thanks again.
Bob

jonsey1886

You don't have a quality jack, 2-4 jack stands, and a parking lot down there in Brisbane somewhere? I did my front brakes on my 98 Civic in my apartment's parking lot in about 4 hrs (the geniuses at the reman place that made this particular set marked the calipers backwards).