xxfile

so I found this one
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ories

but it's JDM, would that work on my car? I have everything stock.

turbojdmhatch

srsly...everything on ebay now a days is "JDM" just like 7 years ago it was all "fast and furious" just cuz it says JDM in the title does not mean its JDM...like my honda tech name for example...im not JDM and either is my car...i want to change my name now

xxfile

so are you saying that it's actually USDM and it will work with my car?

slo_hatch

why do you wanna change the ecu anyway? dont you have one that works?

xxfile

well, mine was fried when I was going down the highway. I try to jump the 2 wire connector to check for CEL codes, and the CEL staied on and doesn't blink. I try to do the k-test, the reference wire is like -5 voltes, the white signal wire has no voltage, so I think I'd need an ECU.

xxfile

One other questions,
when I try to check for CEL codes, do I have to warm the engine up or not?
I read this https://honda-tech.com/zero...15680, and now I felt like taking the car appart to check for timming beforing buying a new ECU. Do you guys think I should do that? since I should install a new timming belt and waterpump anyway.

Relic1

engine temp does not matter when checking for CELs.

jumpering the service jumper and getting a solid CEL light means no codes...
but only if he CEL is off without the jumper in place.

one last point, ECUs do not just die while going down the highway.
Bumps, water or something else had to be involved.

xxfile

thanks for holding me back from buying an ECU, so... now I guess I'll tell my story again here.

I was driving down the highway about a week ago (it was raining heavily) and all of a sudden I lost throttal. I pulled the car to the sholder and I couldn't start the car again. So I have the car towed home and I check for spark. I got no spark. So I thought I need a new ignition coil, now since my distributor is on lifetime warenetee, I decide to get a new distributor, so after I plug everything back, still no start. I check for spark, I have spark, and when I keep trying to crank the car, I can smell gas comming out of the exhaust. So now I don't know what to do... should I take appart the engine cover and check timming? could it skipped a teeth or two and then now it's totally off timming?

xxfile

bump, please help~~

slomofo

iTrader: (1)

Have you tried something as basic as a compression check yet or are you going to just start buying parts and hope they work?


It sounds like a timing belt, but if there wasn't spark before and now there's spark after changing your distributor, you might have flooded the engine while cranking it so many times without spark. Do a compression check first, if it comes out good, check for fuel pressure and if that's good, try pouring a small amount of oil in each cylinder, then try starting it.

JDM was gay in the late 90s and you just created that screenname this year.

xxfile

do I need a gage kind of thing for the compression test and the fuel preasure test? what are those tools called?

turbojdmhatch

haha i know i just made this name this year but honestly every time i typed in a name it was already in use and i was like f*ck this and typed this one in and it actually worked the thing is in the late 90s i was 11,12,13 years old... i never got into cars until was i 19 years old since i didnt own a car through high school until late senior year.... since i didnt have a job since i played football in the fall and baseball fall, spring, summer, and winter i had baseball practice in the gyms... so if i had a job i would have worked one day a week....so dont hate me just cuz i have the acronym JDM in my honda tech name

xxfile

<bump> do I need a gage kind of thing for the compression test and the fuel preasure test? what are those tools called?

Relic1

compression tester(or gauge) & fuel pressure gauge.
both a available pretty much anywhere, both are relatively cheap.

all though a compression test (to the point of not starting) can be done by simply removing the spark plugs, having someone turn the car over and holding your hand over the plug hole. If here's air coming out (a lot of it) then you should have enough compression to at least make a little explosion in the cylinder.
It's also really obvious that the car turns over faster with the plugs out vs with the plugs in. It sounds the same, you have a problem.

fuel pressure, if you smell fuel, you likely have pressure. Reading the spark plugs will tell you for sure.

xxfile

I have done both of those, so I guess the last thing I can try is pull the valve cover and the timming belt cover to see if the timming belt skipped. At that point, I probablly will come back with more questions. but I'm still curious: is it possible that for any reason the timming belt/ teeth will just skip a few teeth then catch back on can cause the car to stall?

slomofo

iTrader: (1)

If your timing belt broke, you'll have no compression. If it moved two teeth, it still won't have enough compression to start. Putting your hand over the cylinders isn't really a good method of checking compression because at 50psi, it'll blow a lot of air, but still won't start.


Modified by slomofo at 1:49 PM 11/14/2008

xxfile

So removing the valve cover will still allow me to see if the timming belt skipped a teeth or not right? like I can line up the crank-pully manually and see if the mark on the camshaft lines up?

or maybe if those gages are useful things to have, maybe I'll buy them, buttom line is I don't want to buy those just to use them once and later to find out that I'll have to take appart the valve cover and timming belt anyway.


Modified by xxfile at 1:26 PM 11/14/2008

Chilloutdamn

same thing happened to me the other day when i was on the highway. car just turned off at about 80 mph. checked everything and the car would crank but not turn over. finally i decided to check the fuse box under the hood and evidently my ecu fuse was blown. i popped a new one in and it started right up. then it kept doing it everytime i was on the highway at about 80+mph so i replaced the ecu and now everything works fine. check your ecu fuse!

xxfile

are you talking about fuse 24? but I was able to jump the ECU for CEL codes, so I think my ECU is getting power, and I think... that means the fuse is good?

Chilloutdamn

cant remember off the top of my head what the fuse number is but its at the top left in the fuse box under the hood, its a 15amp and it should say ECU (mine does).


Modified by Chilloutdamn at 5:53 PM 11/16/2008

xxfile

So I need help here. I took appart the valve cover, took off the upper timming belt cover, manually line up the up mark and the two horizontal lines by turnning the crank pulley manually, and when I check the timming mark on the crank pulley, the pointer on the lower timming belt cover isn't pointing at either the red mark or the white mark. I'm wander what it should be pointing at? the Hayens manual says the white mark points at the mark on the oil pump, which... I don't know what that is... will I see it when I open up the lower timming belt cover? and I'm assuming the pointer on the lower timming belt cover is differnt than the oil pump makr? so like when at TDC, the pointer is suppose to be pointing at the red mark?

xxfile

bumpbump

xxfile

bump again?

xxfile

bump again,
Somebody please help. I don't want to go through all the work and found out I did it wrong and have to take appart everything again. I mean... incase after I fix the Tbelt and it still doesn't start, I want to at least make sure that it wasn't that I screwed up.

xxfile

bump?