JDMb18c1HATCH

Ok I have built this motor to the max and it has taken me a min to get it started, that problem was the TPS. now my problem is that it cranks right up hot or cold and idle's fine but when I try to give it any gas it acts like its fuel cutting except its not. It's getting plenty of fuel from the 310cc injectors and I was told this because its smoking black, not a lot but just a little bit.

SO! if I try to give it any fuel once the tack hits around 3K it acts like its going to die? in matter of fact if i hold on the peddle it will die but if I let off it will go back to a perfect normal idle. it does this regardless of its in neutral or while trying to drive it.

no this is not a new problem I have never actually driven the car as this is a complete brand new build.

can someone please help

timing is right, its getting enough fuel and air there are no TB leaks or vacuum leaks



here is a parts list of everything done if need be to read threw it but I do have a DH Racing tb "lol"


"never mind the prices I personally been keeping track of all the money I spent on it so far and no this is not the whole list lol just motor and tranny and susp"

SUSPENSION
SKUNK2 PRO SERIES FRONT CAMBER KIT controll arms $325
kyb adjustable struts $350 for the front plus $350 for the rear
TEIN S-Tech Springs $249.95 new
GSR rear disk break conversion
SP Performance Cross Drilled and Slotted Vented Front Rotors $300
JDM front upper strut bar $50


MOTOR
Edelbrock victor X intake manifold $585
dh racing throttle body $325 it is also port matched $150
Hondata im gasket, $60
PTE Precision Turbo Fuel Injectors 310cc $225
chipped p28 ecu
greedy extreme timing belt $150
Brand new JDM cap and rotors $75
Vision Motorworks 10.2mm Spiral Core 100% Pure Silicone Spark Plug Wire $75
NGK platinum plus spark plugs $15
T304 stainless steel with mandrel-bent. ( chrome polished ) racing header $150
T304 stainless steel with mandrel-bent. ( chrome polished ) full exhaust $150
new hood release cable $40
BLOX RACING CAM SHAFT SEAL $15
new head gasket set $190


BLOCK
JDM B18c1 block
Darton Sleeves $600
BLOX RACING BLOCK GUARD $100
sleeved block with block guard install $1800
Mahle 10.5 to 1 compression pistons $600
New Mahle rings diamond cut to fit $180
scat h beam rods & ARP rod bolts $500
scat crank $600
new water pump $100
new oil pump. $115
ACL Rod Bearing Set $70
ACL Main Bearing Set $110

HEAD
I just had the head port and polished bead blasted and completley rebuilt this cost me $1000
ARP head studs $150
Skunk2 Racing Tuner Series dual Valve Spring and Titanium Retainer $407.98
Skunk2 One-Piece Forged Valves - High Compression $ 321.19
type r cams "cams were just micro polished before being installed"
AEM adj cam gears $125
BLOX RACING CAM SHAFT SEAL $15

TRANSMISSION
JDM b16 ctr tranny
ACT Extreme stage 3 pressure plate and 6 puck sprung clutch $798
PTE Precision Turbo Fuel Injectors 310cc

THANKS IN ADVANCED

JDMb18c1HATCH

bump: in need of some options? ANYONE

Former User

Any CEL codes? Sounds like a mechanical or ignition timing problem. Have you checked the cap and rotor and tested the coil and ICM?

JDMb18c1HATCH

everything on the car is brand new including the block head and everything inside and outside the motor/tranny. I'm pretty sure the coil is good but not positive. and the ICM is in the dizzy as well right? if so how do I check these 2 to make sure they are not faulty? the timing I think is almost perfect because I can crank the key and it fires right up before the starter can even get a full turn on it lol.

thanks for all your help bro I notice you answer alot of my Q's in every post I make I really do appreciate it

o yea and as far as cell codes how do I read them? and how to I get it to throw any codes? the check engine light is on but not sure if the computer is looking for 1 02 sensor or 2 I only have 1 hooked up

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

What ECU are you running?
If everything is new, thats what i would look at next.

Is this a OBD2 to OBD1 conversion? Is the distrib wired correctly?

Hey RonJ, nice to see ya again.

JDMb18c1HATCH

its obd1 and its a p72 p28 chipped and yes im pretty sure its wired correctly because it runs perfect.

Today it was brought to my attention that maybe the return fuel line might be to small? causing it to flood out could this be a possibility?

Former User

1) Pull the CEL code(s) by jumping the service connector above the ECU:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/how-pull-cel-d4-srs-abs-codes-code-lists-1901557/

Post the codes.

2) Also double check the mechanical timing. Only turn the crank pulley counterclockwise to check:



3) If the mechanical timing is fine, then check the ignition timing using a timing gun.

Former User

Nice seeing you too.

JDMb18c1HATCH

ok kool im going to go check it now and ill post back soon with a reply in a few min

thanks again bro

JDMb18c1HATCH

Ok I see a single timing mark on the pully and a set of 3 timing marks close to each other. so I see a single one such as

|

then i see 3 more such as

|||

it is right on time to the center of the 3 timing marks

| "|" |

if these are the wrong marks and it needs to be timed to the single mark on the pully then that may be my problem lol

if I do got it timed to the wrong mark what are those other 3 marks on the pully for?

******************UPDATE*********************

I do have it on the single timing mark not the center of the 3 like above I just double check it so I assume its right on time then?

Former User

Yes, your mechanical timing is off. TDC1 is when the pointer aligns with the white lone mark, not the middle mark in the group of three.

The middle mark in the group of three is where you set the ignition timing with a timing gun.

JDMb18c1HATCH

HERE IS A SHORT VIDEO OF THE CEL CODES BECAUSE I DONT KNOW HOW TO READ THEM LOL SO I CANT GIVE YOU THE NUMBERS
[youtube]VLRZCz7sbng[/youtube]

JDMb18c1HATCH

i did an update bro it is timmed right I double checked but i did post a video above with the CEL codes

Former User

Code 6 (ECT; 2-wire sensor under distributor); code 10 (IAT; 2-wire sensor inserted into intake or IM); code 22 (VTEC)

JDMb18c1HATCH

the first one under the dizzy would be a tempature sensor

the second one I dont know what it is but it is a white sensor in the back of the intake and the vtec is probably because I dont have the ground wire hooked up yet lol

but would those keep it from running right?

Former User

IAT = intake air temp sensor

Focus on codes 6 and 10, which could be related to your problem.

Are both sensors plugged in and do they look fine? Are the connector wires damaged? Are they properly pinned to the ECU?

JDMb18c1HATCH

Ok I fixed the 2 wire under the dizzy i had 2 plugs switched lol but i did it earlier in the week for a reason and forgot to switch them back.

as far as the white on in the back of the IM not sure about it I unplugged it and it made no difference in the problem.

as far as the codes now im getting a single flash over and over again

such as, flash pause flash pause flash pause

hope this helps

thanks for everything bro

JDMb18c1HATCH

I read its the O2 sensor since its a single flash I guess? if so can the O2 sensor make it do this?

I only have 1 O2 sensor installed

O yea and i grounded the vtec solenoid as well

DDTECH

...is this car even correctly "tuned" fully?

JDMb18c1HATCH

the car has not seen a dyno since I built it NO. this is my first build and i still need to get it to a dyno

Now I will say that the car was turbo'd before I got it and was dyno and tuned with a turbo on it on the p28 chip thats in it. I thought maybe the ecu was looking for that boost of air and its not getting it and its cutting out.

BUT! i hooked up my buddys ecu that he got off of ebay which he runs in his untuned car and plugged it into my car and it does the same thing except with his it idle pulses and mine idles smooth. So i assume its not the ecu because its still cutting at 3K

DDTECH

even a full street tune will almost get you close enough..geez.

JDMb18c1HATCH

yea and how the hell am I gonna street tune it when I cant even back it out of the driveway because of this problem LMMFAO

trust me iv tried everything and cant seem to get it to just fall in place. Also dont you think that if I could drive it on the street i wouldnt be asking so many damn Q's on how to fix my problem so I can drive it like stated in the original message?

JDMb18c1HATCH

BUMP: any new good news? needing this solved bad guys i keep trying different things every day and no luck?

perhaps maybe it could be the fuel filter?

JDMb18c1HATCH

BUMP: someone's gota think of something lol I dont know if this will help any but the car will idle fine all day long regardless if its hot or cold but as soon as I try to punch the gas it bogs as if its going to die.

i put a timing light on it today and got the timing perfect on the money but idles at 900-1000 rpm's if I give it gas with the timing light on the timing mark moves in front of the timing mark on the cover and as soon as it gets a little distance in front of the cover mark it tries to bog down and die on me unless i let off the gas.



another thing the little vent on the top of the valve cover is building a good amount of pressure? in other words if I hold my hand on the hose for a few seconds and then let it off you can hear the air pressure spew out of the hose should it be doing this?



i need help guys im loosing interest fast and i got to much money tied up to just give up someones gotta have some ideas

thanks

Khoald

the vent on top is supposed to feed back into the intake if it's the one i'm thinking of..... do you have a cat on the exhaust? is there any blockage there? I've had cars bog down like that under full load