Cackophony

I've been wanting to convert my rear drums on my 92 DX hatch to discs for quite some time now. After searching the forums and the internet I think I've figured out exactly what pieces I need. Could you guys tell me if I'm missing anything or if there's something in my list I don't need. I'd also love any tips or suggestions from someone who's actually done the conversion. Anyway, here's what I think I need.

1. Rear trailing arm with hub assembly for disk brakes
2. Upper control arm
3. Compensator arms (at the front end of trailing arm)
4. Rotors
5. Brake calipers and brackets
6. Brake pads with shims (get the genuine Honda ones)
7. Parking brake cables
8. Master Cylinder
9. Proportioning Valve

I can get all these parts from any 3rd gen Integra with 4 wheel discs right?

migs

If you got to the junk yard, you can probably just get the WHOLE assembly alot cheaper than piecing them together.

You do not need the UPPER control arms, it is the same. The whole installation process should not take more than 2.5 hours with hand tools, with the assumption you have some know how on working on cars.

I did the same swap except with 92-95 Si rear discs conversion. I did not use the Master Cylinder and Prop Valve as I felt I didnt need it for the street. Your original MC and PV should suffice the rear brakes.

I go into detail on the labor if you need to...

Cackophony

How much should I expect to pay for the assembly?

So your saying you don't think I need a new MC and PV? I thought I read somewhere that the MC and PV from a DX isn't powerfull enough, or something like that. If I don't have to replace those that would be great, since it seems like that was going to be the hardest part since it would of required custom installation.

migs

Dont know how much to pay, but I wouldnt pay more than $150 for the WHOLE assembly.

You dont HAVE to, again, you are probably going to street this. I dont think you would benefit that much from the different MC and PV. Just keep the DX, you should be just fine.

Cackophony

sweet, maybe I'll try and make this my next project. The only problem is that it's next to impossible to find any good cars at my local junkyards. I've been trying to find a 92-95 civic forever without any luck, hopefully I'll have better luck finding a 3rd gen integra.

P.S. Is a 3rd gen Integra the only car other then a 92-95 civic that I can switch the trailing arms with?

R_yd

booster, you need integra brake booster as well if you're changing the m/c and prop valve. and if you do so, you'll have to re-route the brake line going to the master cyl. coz integra m/c and 92-95 civic m/c are not the same.

eg_nezay

do it yourself and save money, its very simple
This should help you http://tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/brakeswap.html

NiiS

not completly true...
unless you get that stuff free, no need to swap that also

R_yd

which part of my statement is not true IF, IF, IF he is changing the master cylinder as well???

Cackophony

If I do end up having to replace my MC and PV and booster are there any integras (or any other car for that matter) that bolt right in? After reading the guide at Hybrid Honda, I don't think I'm up to doing a custom fitting like he had to do.

Cackophony

ttt

Cackophony

After looking around, I may have answered my own question. It looks like the MC that was used in the guide was from a GSR. Am I right that if I get a MC from a RS Integra it will bolt right in? IF so, are there any other Integra models that bolt right in? And one final question. After I upgrade my rear brakes, are they going to be bigger then my front discs? Are the rear discs from the Integra bigger then the front discs from my DX's?

R_yd

i dont think the master cyl. for rs, ls or any integra 94 up will be the same as the 92-95 civic. i called import auto salvage about this when i was doing my swap and they told me that they are all the same; so i was forced to re-route the mc brake line. i thought at first it was hard...but not really if you have the right tools (pipe flaring tool, pipe cutter, and a pipe bender). you'll also notice that one of the line thread (whatever u wanna call it) is bigger than the stock so make sure you have that part. you can rent the flaring tool at auto zone and if you return it, you get your money back. when i did mine, i practiced on a used line several times and when i did it to the actual line i got it in one shot...

JeffS

Pretty-much everything has been answered.

Again though, you don't need the upper control arms. Generally, if you buy a "swap" they'll throw these in. The compensator arms are the same also, but again, you'll usually get them anyway.

The MC and Booster must go together. the civic, integra (gsr) and integra (R) boosters all have different hole patterns to match the MC that you're using.

The MC/Booster is not mandatory. The proportioning valve is not mandatory even if you change the MC/Booster. That said, if you don't swap the MC/Booster out, you'll get greatly increased pedal travel. The prop valve will help to even out the brake bias, which you would want. I did everything at one time and would recommend you do the same.

As far as the MC and brake lines go... I have both a GSR (spare) and typeR (installed), but can't speak to an LS/RS. The problem with the GSR is it has two different size outlet thread-sizes. The smaller one matches the civic. The larger one does not. In order to use the GSR MC, you have to cut the flare off your stock brake line, install a correct size thread assembly, and reflare the line. One the typeR MC, both of the thread sizes match the civic sizes. So... I consider it an easier swap. The lines still do not match up however. With some very carful bending, however, you can get them to line up correctly.

As for the guy who wouldn't pay more than $150... that's a really low price. Consider yourself lucky if you find one for that. Well... I take that back. I bought my swap from Import Auto Salvage for $300. That included the rear lower control arms (allows for the installation of a rear sway-bar) AND a GSR MC/Booster/Prop valve. *note, you must specify all these parts, as they're not all included if you just ask for a "brake swap"* In the end, I decided not to use the GSR stuff and purchased the typeR stuff from sohfast. - Ironically, the parts ended up being shipped from IAS. I guess they have some sort of arrangement.

I'm located in NC though (same state as IAS) so my shipping wasn't much at all.


[Modified by JeffS, 12:21 AM 7/8/2002]

stevel

I did the fastbrakes upgrade (not relevant) and replaced my master cylinder at the same time. The MC from the 90-91 Civic EX (The 90-91 EX is the 4 door with the D16 in it, same engine as the Si) will bolt right in. No reflaring or rebending of lines at all. I did it myself and was very happy with the pedal feel. I got a remanufactured one at Autozone for $60 and as a core I gave them my smaller one, they didn't know the difference. The diameter is 15/16". Hope that helps.

s

Cackophony

Does fastbrakes offer a conversion kit for my car? I looked at their website a while ago but couldn't find any information.

Also, if I get the MC from the 90-91 Civic EX like you said, do I need to get a new speed booster or can I use the one already in my car? And if I do need to get a new speed booster, should I get it from a 90-91 EX?


[Modified by Cackophony, 8:08 AM 7/8/2002]

stevel

For drum to disc in the rear, no. For the front yes, I assume you have the 9.5" disc brakes up front. I believe this is the kit you need --> http://www.fastbrakes.com/pages/kits/bigfront.htm

Email Brian and tell him you saw his stuff on h-t and you'll get a very good discount. The kit is awesome!!

I assume you mean the brake booster (big black thing the MC bolts to). No, you can just bolt up the MC and lines. Hope that helps.

s


[Modified by stevel, 9:25 AM 7/8/2002]

DX Hybridizer

Isn't the MC and booster from a 92-95 SI/EX different than the cx/dx/vx drum setup. I believe it is and is a direct bolt up no line re working or flaring. Also if you do this setup you can keep your stock booster it'll work fine. Just for the record. A Reman. MC cost about 60 bucks as well and work great with just bolt ups. I only woudl do that if your brakes feel like total mush after the swap, which is probably just cause your M/C is weak from age and you are just realizing it now that it works more, so swap out with one made for the 4 disc.

It's not tough at all! And reduces brake dive greatly, as well as makes redoing shoe's a snap just like the front.


[Modified by DX Hybridizer, 4:14 PM 7/17/2002]