trevor72

Hi guys I have rarely posted to this forum because I just got done selling my CRX.

Well, onto civic stuff. Last april I replaced the clutch and just before parking the civic to drive the CRX for a while, I was begining to notice that the it was hard to engage a gear ( lock me out) / it would grind reverse when cold. This was in october and it was begining to get cold up north here. I replaced the slave cylinder the week before parking the car. No change.

So I sold the CRX now I'm driving the civic again (92 civic Dx hatch), and the problems seems to be getting worse.

After some searching here and some very smart members, I looked under the dash of the civic....and well this is what I found: (master cyl. leekin!!!)

Looks like it has been doing this for a while too.

Thanks Guys

99blackcivicSi

thats commen for any older car i see it everyday at work

De_tour

yeah i have the same problem going on, and it squeeks whenever i push it in to put it in gear. Im gonna get the Omnipower slave cyl and see how that goes.

trevor72

Ok so I have now replace the slve cyl. (4 months ago before being partked for 4 months) and the master cyl. (last week). I bled the entire system and nothing. Not a single difference, well maybe worse. The problem seems to me getting consistantly worse.

Symptoms:

1. start car in nutral in the morning, sometimes little jolt forward, sometimes not, always locked out in morning. have to shut off and put in gear and restart!

2. reversing getts stuck in gear, clutch fully depressed still bogging the motor.

3. Sometimes gets stuck in forward gears and hard to upshift. Usualy between 1, 2, and 3. I don't notice down shifts b/c I always double clutch.

4. Not sure if it's me being extra critical, but the pedal seems to vibrate a bit (not a lot), and usually only under load. Own this car for almost 3yrs and never noticed before.

5. Seems to go away/ get a bit better when warmed up. But lately is being a pain in the *** more and more often. Other than the mornings this problems is intermittent and is not a consistent bad clutch, somtimes things are unrecognisably normal.

I should also note that I did a clutch/pressure plate replacement and flywheel machine in April 2005 No problems until November 2005.

Boy I hope it's not that cheap *** replacement presure plate or a clutch disk spring escaping! Altho the p/p was considerably less effort than the stock unit, maybe some fingers are getting lazy. This car has been raced. Raced one race (6 rounds IIRC) and won! So If shock could be a factor let me know.


Thanks for any and all help.
Trevor

NRZero

I would like to know an answer to this. I'm having the same problem.

BiffStroganoffsky

So you replaced the civic or crx clutch last april? Just curious because I had a pressure plate go bad (springs got eaten) which caused shifting problems for me. Of course, I found that out after replacing the master and slave cylinders. Apparently, the stock/OEM clutch discs have a history of this.

trevor72

n/m

trevor72

Well, its look'n like I'll be droping the trans again. No comments anyone?

ZipTieGUy

so its not the slave or master then its the clutch, yikes

INVALID

Considering the car jolts forward when you start the car in neutral I am led to believe it is probably the clutch. But even with a broken clutch the car can start in neutral, but it sounds as if it's stuck between gears if it's doing that.

If you have good pressure on the clutch pedal, I'm doubting it's the master cylinder, you can press in the clutch a few times and see if the plunger on the slave cylinder is moving.

I'd say search a bit more before pulling off the transmission because if you pull it and you find that's the issue then there's all that work for nothing. Save the biggest job for last.

Cuda70

If it is stuck in gear (Jolts forward when in neutral) it is probably NOT the clutch. You dont need a clutch to shift gears or place the car in neutral when the engine is not on.

So the tranny is sticking in gear somehow.

That said, your shifter bushing could be bad. I would disconnect the shifter from under the car, set it in neutral and start the engine. That way you will be able to tell if your bushing is bad, and you are not getting enough throw (In and out) to find neutral. This would greatly effect reverse as well, so that might be a hint to helping you.

I had the same problem in my 90 CRX and the bushing was bad. It's starting to get harder to get into reverse in my 95 Civic, so I will probably be replacing the bushing in it pretty soon as well.

Give it a try. If it is not your problem, then you have eliminated one step to removing your tranny anyways.. heh

trevor72

D'oh. Did I really say that? **** didn't mean that.

#1 should read:

1. start car in //GEAR// in the morning, sometimes little jolt forward, sometimes not.
Always locked out in morning //WHEN START WITH SHIFTER IN NUTRAL POSSITION AND PEDAL TO FLOOR//. have to shut off and put in gear and restart!

Sorry for the confusion.

Thanks guys.

Scotty Dosent Know

Sounds kinda like the problem I was having, I thought it was the master cylinder at first too but it got waaay wosre locking out of gears ect. Turned out that the prongs that hold one of the springs to the clutch disc had broke and it was just kinda ratteling around on there and wearing on the flywheel where the bolts go.

DB1_559

change it trust me mine went out and it sucked

trevor72

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Ummm change What???

Well It's been a while now, about a 1000km, still not right. With the clutch to the floor still locking me out of gear, and it doesn't get better the longer you wait to try to put in in a gear. It is mostly when car is cold, but eratily after too. With the car running and the stick in neutral, clutch pedal up , if I press it down ssslllloowwwllyy, (very much slower than a normal clutch depresion) it seems to work ok-ish. In that situation it will allow me to grab a gear, but still feels like there is resistance.

I have replace the slave cyl, the master cyl, and had dropped the trans, in that order. The clutch disk and all it's little springs checked out fine, no abnormal wear or anything, it all looked good in there. I even put on another the throwout bearing just because it was apart.

I can't see any leaks anywhere, nor think of any reasons why this is being such a pain in the a$$!

It's almost as if there is an equal or sometimes greater force acting against the whole hydraulic system??? Or ...I don't know,... because the pedal seems,.. well "spongy" sometimes. I know that should mean air in the system, but I have gone through over a full container (~1ltr) worth of fluid and it's not getting better!@!!!

HELP

Trev

schardbody

bent clutch fork buddy.

trevor72

Really?

When I had trans. out, I checked the operation of the fork and all was good, the new t/o bearing moved flawlessly on the imput shaft. It seems to me like the "something" before the clutch fork is not actuating the clutch fork properly. I held my hand on the boot with someone in the car, it didn't seem like it moved the same amount all the time, like itmoved more with sucessive pedal efforts.

So you think the fork could be hang'n up tho or what?

professor poon

are those cobwebs stock or aftermarket?

schardbody

so the more you pump the clutch the more the slave would move??? if thats the case you definately have a defective master or slave, or leak/air in the system. bleed like a bastard, and check it again.

trevor72

Aftermarket CDM cob webs, and I've been bleeding like a bastard, and it's not getting better, maybe some tampex? lol, But really guys, how much bleeding is normal?

I was thinking a bad slave, but clean and dry, is it possible for a slave to have a bad internal seal?

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trevor72 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Aftermarket CDM cob webs, and I've been bleeding like a bastard, and it's not getting better, maybe some tampex? lol, But really guys, how much bleeding is normal?

I was thinking a bad slave, but clean and dry, is it possible for a slave to have a bad internal seal?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes. What you need to do is check the movement of the slave cylinder. Have someone get in the car and depress the clutch pedal. Should be about 1" of travel. If that checks out ok, then you have an issue with the PP itself (more likely) or the disc.