camyers1310

Hey everyone - I've decided to join Honda-Tech as it has been very resourceful in the past on giving me information. I'm new to engines and mechanical issues but I'm learning alot along the way and am confident that I can fix this issue myself - given some help from you guys!

I know my post is long but I'm hoping to offer as much info in advance so we don't have to play tag. Thanks SO much in advance!

I just moved to Cali and was looking for a job when my car spat out on me....


Issue:

So, with that said; my 1992 Honda Civic CX hatch (5-speed) was running buttery smooth the other day when all of a sudden I shifted into 5th gear and the car just died on me. And now it won't start up again. It cranks and tries to start but doesn't want to come alive on me.

So, being only 20 and this the first time I've had combustion issues I scoured online for the last week and thanks to all of you guys - I've found ALOT of info about my issue. But I'm stumped on what to do next. Again, I'm new to any of this so it is possible that I've overlooked something.


Note: my car's engine light comes on for two seconds then goes off (in pre-start up mode)



Troubleshooting Done as-of Now:


- I checked my spark plugs and plug wires and I have spark.
- Brand new battery as of November and the terminals are clear of corrosion.
- The spark plugs seem to have a little oil on them - but a friend inspected and wasn't too worried as they all had strong spark. Again my car was running PERFECT so nothing should have gotten down into my pistons.
- I've jumped the two ECU wires for codes because my Honda apparently needs to have the ECU codes pop up thru the check engine light. No codes pop up. When the two wires are touching via a paperclip, the engine light stays on... when I separate the wires, it comes off. Nothing more than that. No long blinks or short blinks. Just stays on as long as the wires touch (Am I checking the ECU codes correctly? Does this mean I have no codes stored?)


I haven't fully pulled the ECU out for inspection as it didn't smell and from the front panel it looks okay. I am aware it would be wise to pull it out and check the back side for capacitor leaks.


I've learned now that Honda's have a poor Main Relay that controls the fuel pump to prime. I haven't yet pulled the main relay to check the solders because... Well, I can hear my fuel pump prime. Me and my buddy confirmed that it is priming.
I am not sure of the name of this next part, but fuel will pump itself up near the engine into the part responsible for pumping fuel into the injectors. (We loosened the nut and when cranking the engine over, it would leak fuel.... leading me to assume the fuel pump is doing okay. And the main relay as well?)

I haven't pulled out the injectors so I would assume they are doing their job correctly and shooting fuel into the engine.






So far from what I've read (assuming I follow thru and check the main relay physically and the ECU as well...) is that the likely culprit is my distributor and/or the igniter or coil inside of the distributor. This is where I'm stumped.

I pulled the distributor off and right from the get go there was oil inside the engine bay. I believe the O-ring gasket needs replacing because there is oil all over the gasket and it looks old from inspection.

But, how would I go about checking the other components of the distributor? I have no idea where to go from here. Does this sound like a distributor issue?




I'm almost dead broke right now. I just moved to Cali and have no money to be guessing and replacing unless absolutely necessary. No friends to help here and running on a VERY limited tool supply. And it's very difficult to go about looking for a job without a vehicle. I'm 20 mind you, I could REALLY use the help!






Key Points:

- My Honda just died and will not start again. It was running absolutely perfect until i shifted into 5th gear. Then - it's like someone cut electricity to it.
- I have spark.
- It appears that my main relay and fuel pump are priming correctly.
- I believe I have no ECU codes stored.
- I believe my distributor is to blame. The o-ring gasket looks like it is leaking. I need help on how to test the coil and or ignitor?


Thanks again for your help!

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

What color is the spark?

Former User

Is spark bright white at all 4 spark plugs? Click the spark link in my signature.

If spark is fine, check the mechanical timing to see whether the timing belt skipped a tooth or two.

camyers1310

I will go ahead and double check my spark color now and get back to you on that one.

I'll also check the timing belt as well. From initial inspection it appears to be tight and good to go. But, I'll inspect it right now as well.



On a side note - since I took out my entire distributor, will I have to worry about configuring timing?

Former User

You need to verify that the cam and crank are still synchronized at TDC1 (=mechanical timing). You probably have a D15B7 or D15B8 engine. See diagram.


You can check the mechanical timing with or without the distributor installed.

camyers1310

Okay so I double checked spark and it appears to be blue on all four plug wires. While cranking - it only sporadically sparks about once a second when tested on all four plug wires.

As for the timing belt - it took all damn day to figure out how to go about it but everything seems to be in order.

Does the lack of a fast acting spark point to the distributor? If so, is it a wise idea to bring it to AutoZone for further testing/advice? Or will they not know what they are talking about?

Thanks again in advance!

Former User

Sounds like weak spark. It should be bright white.

Remove the distributor cap, and then inspect the rotor and cap contact points. Also check whether the rotor screw is loose or has fallen out.

Remove the coil and igniter unit from the distributor. Resistance test the coil.

Take the igniter unit to AutoZone. They can test it for you.

camyers1310

Unfortunately, I don't have a regular screw holding my rotor in place. It's a little metal rod that seems to have been banged in there to hold the whole distributor together. There is no way to get it off and I definitely don't have the tools required to do so....

How should I go about this? Am I stuck replacing the whole distributor?

Former User

The rotor is too important to be mickey-mouse secured to the distributor. If you are unable to do a proper fix, then pay a mechanic. Then go from there.

Or you can buy a whole new distributor, though it may be expensive because you don't want to install a cheap one. Otherwise, you'll have problems again.

camyers1310

Okay I don't have a needle nose to pry that little guy out of there. Autozone is offering me a remannied OEM dizzy for $175 with a lifetime warranty?

Is it worth biting the bullet or should I try to find a salvage shop around here?

Former User

Go visit your local Harbor Freight Tools store. You'll find that you can buy some basic hand tools there for much less than $175.

camyers1310

Okay Ron thanks for all your help. Much appreciated!

How much would it cost for me to buy an individual coil and cap and rotor?

The cap looks fine but the rotor moves damn slow when cranking and the contact blade on the rotor seems corroded. Since I can't open it as of now; I'm just wondering if it's worth buying some extra tools and waiting it out for the parts to get here? Or would it be better to buy a new dizzy @ AutoZone?

Thanks again!

Former User

Post clear pictures.

You first need to determine what needs to be replaced and then compare the total price of bad parts to the price of buying a whole new distributor at AutoZone. What is the brand of the $175 distributor at AutoZone?

camyers1310

So I went to AutoZone and they took it apart for me. It turns out my igniter unit was failing the tests. So we swapped that out and I picked up a new cap and rotor as well. I went home hoping all was well - and my car STILL didn't start.

Where should I go from here? I figured if my igniter unit was failing then that would have been the problem.

Former User

Resistance test the coil.

jrharlow

The next system I would look into is the mechanical timing system. All it takes is for your timing belt to slip one tooth and you are done. The timing belt will look intact but is so far out of time it wont run at all.