92civhatch1125

When I start driving the air will begin to cool. After a few minutes it seems to just turn off. Then after a while longer it will usually start blowing cold again. It does it at all times but when its cooler outside its not noticed as much because the car has had time to cool off more before it cuts off. The freon is fully charged. I have searched on the internet and couldn't find anything that was like my problem. Anyone have any ideas?

Ryan Lwin

Does your compressor engage the whole time or does it stop and go?

92civhatch1125

When i'm stopped while driving I can hear it disengage and reengage periodically but I dont usually have a place to pull off and check if its engaged when it starts blowing warm. It happens to me most when im on my way to work in the middle of the afternoon at the hottest part of the day. I will go driving tomorrow when im off work and find a place to pull off and check. What are you thinking it might be?

Former User

Measure the pulley/armature gap. The gap may be too wide.

Outrun

I had similar symptoms where the AC goes on and off when it's hot outside, but works perfectly in cooler weather. Dealer said it was a faulty AC switch.

Ryan Lwin

Does it blow cold air when you are driving and hot air when you are at idle? Also, do you only hear the engage/disengage noise when you are at idle or while driving?

92civhatch1125

I had read something about the ac switch but it does it whether its hot or cold. Just when its hot outside with the sun beaming in the windows when it kicks off for a period of time you notice it more. No it will blow cold air whether im driving or idle but it seems to periodically shut off for like maybe 2 or 3 minutes randomly, and then it finally reengages the clutch and starts blowing cold again until it does it all over again. If its cooler outside or at night time the cools down faster so its not as noticeable when it kicks off because its recirculating the residual cold air in the car. I only hear it when at idle. The engine idles up like its supposed to and the clutch engages. I have watched it before to make sure its cycling on and off like its supposed to and it does. Just sometimes it stays off for an extended time before it kicks back on and thats what I need to fix. But im not sure what would be causing it.

Former User

Pinpointing intermittent problems can be tricky.

When the A/C blows warm, does the A/C light in the button remain illuminated?

Does the condenser fan run when the clutch does not engage?

What is the gap/clearance measurement?

Having this^ information should help to pinpoint the problem.

92civhatch1125

I actually noticed something today and I want to see if I might be correct. I may be wrong but is there an orifice tube in that years a/c system that controls the pressure? Most of my driving occurs at 55mph or above. Well I was on my way to a friends house today and it was acting up as usual. I had to stop at a drive through pharmacy to pick up a prescription and there was somewhat of a line. Just before arriving it kicked back on and started blowing cold. The entire time I waited through that line it blew cold. It had no problems. It wasn't until I got back out on the road and got up to higher speed that it started acting up. I started thinking maybe at low speeds and Idle it works fine but when I get up to higher cruising speeds with the engine at higher revs maybe the pressure gets too high and kicks it off for safety. Maybe the orifice tube is partially clogged? The a/c light does stay on at all times when the button is in the on position. When I was watching it the other day the fan was running even when the clutch had disengaged. I haven't had a chance to measure the gap yet. Feeler gauges are one tool I don't have at the moment. But the gap isn't a lot. Going by the spec chart if its too much I would be surprised just by looking at it. Any thoughts on the possible clogged orifice tube?

92civhatch1125

Today I noticed something. Most of my driving is done at higher speeds 55 and above. I was on my way somewhere and it was acting up. I had to stop at a pharmacy drive thru and wait a few minutes behind people. It blew cold the entire time sitting there. but when I got back on the road it started acting up again. Does it have an orifice tube? Could that be possibly clogged and it builds up to much pressure when im driving at higher speeds kicking it off?

92civhatch1125

Yes the Light stays on even when its not working. I was watching it the other day and the fan was running when the clutch had disengaged. I don't own feeler gauges at the moment so I haven't gotten to measure the gap. But just by looking at it I would be surprised if the gap was too much. Its not much of a gap.

Former User

This^ diagnostic information rules out the A/C pressure switch and thermostat, as well as the heater control panel.

The possible sources of the problem are the ECU, compressor clutch relay, clutch gap/clearance, and field coil.

Things to do to pinpoint further:

1) Swap the compressor clutch and condenser fan relays to see whether the fan rather than the clutch now intermittently stops working.

2) Measure the clutch gap/clearance. And you can't eyeball it. Get a set of feeler gauges and do it right. See diagram.

3) Ohm test the compressor field coil when the engine is cold. See diagram.