ken perry

Hello,

I have a 92 civic 4dr with a b20b. I've had the car for about 5 years and have had no issues. But recently I've had this issue where either within the first few minutes after driving down road the car shudders and hesitates so bad I either have to pull off to side and let it go through its issues and then it clears up and is fine.

But generally once car is turned off and back on it goes through same problem at some point. I've replaced fuel filter, ngk plugs, ngk wires look fine. I've checked my dizzy and only thing I noticed there was under rotor cap there was a tiny spring that was rusted and the connectors it touched where rusted ? I don't know what either of those do but I cleaned them up. But it clears up and runs great so it couldn't be dizzy ?

I'm really at a loss as I've replaced nearly all important parts 5 years ago, fuel pump, gaskets, timing belt, water pump, etc etc

Any ideas ?

ek9_beast

Any codes. A lot of open ends

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

test coil/icm and primary o2.

ken perry

It has no codes.

tony_2018

When was the last time you did maintenance to your ignition?

ken perry

About 5 years ago I had damn near everything replaced, timing belt, gaskets, seals , altinator, plugs, wires, dizzy, etc. but never the icm or coil? I'm not sure what all needed to be replaced in ignition?

tony_2018

k, test coil. Refer to FAQs section in the sticky.

ken perry

The coil spring was broke I'm assuming it should be attached?

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

ken perry

Yes I will. But shouldn't the small spring be attached in my picture? They are on new ones, mine was rusted and detached and only 3 coils compared to new ones which seem much longer.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

yes, it should be there. no, there shouldn't be any rust in there. yes, you can still test both, and odds are your problem is one or both of them.

ken perry

So I tested the old coil today and it was bad Very low or no readings. I replaced the ignition coil with a new one today as well as a new distributor cap and rotor button yet when I still went down the road it wound up stuttering and stumbling again. Then when I went to start the car back up at hesitated to turn over before it finally did. Then the car through a check engine light but when I went to jump The plug underneath the passenger side floor board it doesn't flash any codes. And once the engine and key is turned back to the off position and then you turn the key Forward the check engine light goes away.

cfauvel

I suspect plugs.

my daughter had a shuddering issue just last week. Bought all new plugs, wires, cap and rotor.

but
only replaced the plugs as I wanted to know exactly what the issue was.

the plugs did the trick, returned everything else.

then I ohmed out all of the plugs from the connector (where the plug boot goes) to the electrode and and 3 of the 4 plugs had a reading of 1.0 to 1.4 ohms and one had a reading of 4.6 ohms.

no visible issue with the plug, electrodes were all fine.

You can do the same test if you have an ohm meter.

My next choice for you would be one of the following
Idle control valve
dizzy control module (inside the dizzy)
bad injector
wet ECU

ek9_beast

I'd replace the plugs and check gaps. My gap was too large and caused a bad stutter under load(2nd gear at low rpm)

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

you still didn't test icm.