solrunner

Has anyone done this yet? have you had any problems or anything I should be careful with? For 88 bucks I can bump up my compression on my I think I would like to do this to help out performance. It's suppose to to jump considerably this way and they are suppose to fit.

Spade

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solrunner

Look, I am just looking to make it a little better for running my but to work. I'm not looking to race it. I just want to know if it will work. My rings need to be replaced and I would like a tad bit better response.

Spade

Then get a cam.

solrunner

Any one else have something to add. since grouch Oh hasn't been to informative has anyone done it yet. Cams for the Sohc don't do much without increased compression, larger Tb's. I'm not trying to build a race car however, I should be able to jump compression without destorying to the motor. My sunfire went from 9-7-:1 to 11:1 without any issues and it's daily drive with after market cams and zero bottom end issues. With V-tech getting rid of the air or backing of air flow causing destruction of the bottom end should be be an issue considering 9.2:1 with 6psi is about the same as the pistons minus as much heat increase. I believe the compression is about 10.1 and one point of compression will not hurt the motor. No matter how much honda blue prints the motor.

freakin_eLRoD

I pulled this off of Spade's Sohc Upgrades:

Engine: Well, where the hell do we start? The motor mounts all have gaps in them. Filling them with window cement is a poor mans way to get some “solid” mounts. Okay, now that you got that sucker still, lets increase some power.
On a naturally aspirated engine there are # things you can do. 1. Up the compression. 2. Increase the displacement. And 3. Add more aggressive cams.
One way to up the compression is to mill the head. It is very important for you to not remove more than .30. If you do, you risk timing issues because the timing belt is going to be shortened and you will risk jumping teeth. You can also get thinner head gaskets, the Y8 is cheap and is the thinnest metal OEM head gasket that you can get.
Now that we have covered some inexpensive increases, lets go to pistons. The 1988-1989 D16A1 Engine came with some really high dome pistons. They cost around 30 dollars each from the Acura dealer as well, and will increase your compression ratio as follows:
d16a1 pistons (stock bore) in the following with a y8/z6 metal headgasket(no mill):
d16a6= 11.08: 1 compression
d16z6= 12.03: 1 compression
d16y8= 12.61: 1 compression
Obviously high compression and you 91 octane folks should consider a thicker headgasket.
Since you have decided to open that sucker and upgrade the pistons you should also consider upgrading your rods. Whether you decide to shot-peen your stock rods or upgrade to some LS rods, it’s up to you. Better yet, shot-peen the LS rods! When upgrading these, you should consider some ACL bearings and ARP rod bolts. Strength is always a comfort, right?
The head is what traps all of the power in any style engine. Be it naturally aspirated (N/A), nitrous injected, supercharged, turbocharged or all three. It has the valves that allow the air in and out of the combustion chamber and the cam (J) that opens and closes the valves. Porting is the process of removing material to make the holes for the valves larger to allow more air even if you use the stock cam. But, within the head you have all of these moving parts that rub against each other, even with oil there is friction. To reduce friction, you can get bronze valve guides, coated valves, and roller rockers. Roller rockers are cam followers that have wheels instead of a contact point. They greatly reduce friction and, the HX has them! Unfortunately, it only has a standard 2-lobe cam instead of a 3-lobe cam. Again another crazy topic that has been discussed a few times. Still with a custom cam, This “VTEC-E” head could theoretically produce more power than the VTEC head ever could. Since the rollers would allow for a cam lobe so aggressive that the regular followers would fail. Adjusting the cam with a cam gear can also change your power band to what best suits your driving, some drive easy, some drive hard every now and then, and some (like me) visit 7200 with every stop light and every shift. Well, almost.
Remember, an engine is an air pump, the more air it moves the stronger it is. And the best way to move air is to open the valves really high for a long time. Some good quality camshaft makers are Crower, Zex, Hondasaver, and Skunk2.

Also if you have any questions running hi-compression PM bulithatch on this board, I believe he's running this setup.

Mike D

http://www.dseries.org


check it out and do a search. This topic has been covered there on many occasions.

Mike