DALE-EK4

i swapped a 95 d16z6 motor into a 92 civic vx hatchback. I had to use the engine harness from the vx. the vx has 5 wire o2 sensor and the ex motor has a 4 wire o2 sensor. the car starts but real rough idle. engine code was 1 the o2 sensor and also 4 which is crank position sensor. which 4 wires out of the vx harness do i use to wire into the 4wire o2 sensor? thanks guys

na96gsr

My buddy got the same setup....Id also like to know how to do the conversion.

JV

JV digs in his notepad and comes up with:

As quoted from kenji ...

"I will make it simple for you. There are a couple of ways to do it.

1. Use a multimeter and do a continuity test between the 5-wire O2 sensor plug on the VX engine harness and the ECU plugs. Test each wire on the 5-wire O2 sensor plug to find its corresponding ECU pin location. Once you know the locations cut the 5-wire O2 sensor plug off and splice in a 4-wire O2 sensor plug.

2. Just get a 4-wire O2 sensor plug and run the wires directly to the ECU.

yel/blk - A25 - 12V switched
org/blk - A6 - O2 heater control
grn/wht - D22 - sensor ground
wht/red - D14 - O2 signal wire.

It is my understanding that you are putting a B-series DOHC VTEC motor into your '92-'95 Honda Civic VX using the VX engine harness. If this is correct then the information I gave you will get you through this."

splitime

Heh, this was a fun one, I used my helms to figure this out myself. I'll have to look under the hood and pull out my helms to get the info for you. If i remember, 3 of the wires you could use from the old o2 part, where the o2 meets the harness. The other i ran to the ECU and split off to 2 points i believe. I'll try to get you more info.

na96gsr

Well my buddy wonder if he can swap o2 on his vx and use the ex 02. The price diff was crazy. Like 40 for an ex 4 wire vs. $160 for a vx 5 wire. But he does plan on doing the swap to an ex motor later. His o2 is just going bad now....thank!

splitime

The price difference reflects the quality/usage difference for the 5wire, its setup for wideband o2. More precise tuning, people buy them just to make wideband o2 setups for standalone systems.

splitime

okie, i found the setup, the yel/blk wire needs to get routed all the way to the ecu, at least i found it easier to do it that way, then it gets t'd into the yel/blk on A and the yel/blk on B at the ecu. The other 3 wires you can use ones from the VX harnes, you'll have to make your own plug setup though, or just hardwire them. I bought a 4 wire waterproof wiring harness from pepboys, both the male and female then rewired both sides at the old plug area.

Okie, for 4 wire the wires are this:
Grn/Wht 2
Wht 1
Orn/Blk
Yel/Blk

for 5 wire they are:
grn/wht 2
wht
wht/blu 2
orn
orn/blu 2
yel/blk
blk 1

Okie for the the other wires, take the 5wire yel/blk and that goes to the 4wire orn/blk, grn/wht 2 is the same on both 5wire and 4wire, and orn/blu 2 is the wht1 for the 4wire o2. IM me if you need any more info.


btw. the above colors are directly from the helms, some of those cables are routed inside the cable plug so you dont think, gee thats more than 5wires...

[Modified by splitime, 12:57 AM 10/20/2002]


[Modified by splitime, 12:59 AM 10/20/2002]

splitime

I wouldnt, you'll throw codes i would bet if you put a 4wire o2 onto his current 5wire o2 setup, ie you are wiring for an EX, but your're still a VX...

arcsec

Thank you so much........

DaX

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yel/blk - A25 - 12V switched
org/blk - A6 - O2 heater control
grn/wht - D22 - sensor ground
wht/red - D14 - O2 signal wire.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you sure? I'm trying to wire in a 4 wire on a VX harness. The HELM says to use A23 instead of A25, but I'm still getting code 41. Maybe today I'll try wiring to A25.


Modified by DaX at 1:04 PM 10/16/2003

dwnthehatch

iTrader: (1)

Check the instructions out in my sig. It states how to wire a 4 wire gsr o2 in a VX. I'm not sure if it will be the same for your motor. It's worth a try though. All you have to do is move 1 wire.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Much appreciated...I'll give it a stab.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

My only deal is that I'm using the VX harness...not the LS harness. I think with what info I already have and what you have given me though, I'll be able to fix it. I'll post a write up in your thread on how I did it.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

OK, I don't have everything [including my car] in front of me this instant, but I think I figured out what I did wrong.

*I bought the NTK direct plug in 4 wire o2 sensor from NOPI.

*I used a female plug from a chopped up harness that uses a 4 wire sensor.

*I am using the stock VX harness on my LS motor.

*The wires that come out of the female o2 plug from the other harness are:

GRN/WHT
WHT
ORN/BLK
YEL/BLK

*The VX harness has 7 wires going to the 5 wire plug:

GRN/WHT
ORN/BLU
YEL/BLK
BLK
WHT
WHT/BLU
ORN

*This is the way the wires should be soldered, and where, according to HELM, they go in the ECU:


4 wire plug | VX Harness | ECU Pinout
GRN/WHT----GRN/WHT--------D22
WHT----------ORN/BLU---------D14
ORN/BLK-----YEL/BLK----------A6
YEL/BLK------BLK---------------A23

*The wires on the VX harness that remain unused are:

WHT
WHT/BLU
ORN

*I think I have the two YEL/BLK wires soldered together. I'm going to check this tomorrow when I get a chance, and hopefully resoldering the YEL/BLK [on the plug] to the BLK [on the harness], and the ORN/BLK [on the plug] to the YEL/BLK [on the harness] will solve my problem. I'll update as soon as possible.

JV, You wrote:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yel/blk - A25 - 12V switched</TD></TR></TABLE>
However, HELM calls for the YEL/BLK to go to A23 and not A25. Were you confused on this point, or are both A23 and A25 12V switched? Either way, the YEL/BLK wire from the plug, not from the harness should go to a 12V power source, preferably switched.


Modified by DaX at 1:39 PM 10/16/2003

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Ok, yesterday I pulled out my harness again and checked the wires. I had the two YEL/BLK wires soldered together and the ORN/BLK soldered to the BLK. I repaired this, soldering the ORN/BLK to the YEL/BLK and the YEL/BLK to the BLK. I put the harness back in and still am pulling a code 41. I am in St. Augustine FL for the weekend having a good time right now, so on Monday when I get back I'll trace everything back to the pinouts in the ECU and let everyone know what's going on.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Did some more toying yesterday. I traced all four wires back to the ECU, and all are correct except the one that's supposed to go to A23. This is the YEL/BLK wire coming from the o2 plug that I soldered to the BLK wire on the VX harness. This wire gets continuity to the A26 pin on the ECU plug. This is a BLK/RED wire. I depinned it and tried swapping it's place with the A25 wire and the A23 wire, one of the times it blew the ECU fuse. I put it back the way it was [running to A26] for the time being. Every position I tried either gave me a Code 41 CEL or blew the ECU fuse. I got tired of messing around yesterday, and I've got a test tomorrow, so it will be later this week when I have another chance to mess around with it. I'll keep you posted [if anyone is actually keeping up...]

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Well it's crunch time for getting my emissions inspected. For the time being I'm going to get the "special emissions" for a tad more money and just deal with the CEL in a few weeks when I have time.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

ttt

civicminded92

I don't know how bad things are messed up with what you have already done - didn't read it all but looks like you went to WAY too much trouble. All you need to do is move 1 wire around in the chassis harness. I put a 94 Z6 in my 92 VX - just moved the one wire shown below from one connector harness to another. There is even a little rubber plug in the hole that you will move the wire to:



That's it!! That is all you have to do!!! No soldering, no routing back to the ECU. Just unplug, plug, go!


Modified by civicminded92 at 2:58 PM 2/20/2004

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I just went out and looked...there is an orange/blue wire in EH4 AND CH4, both connected to each other. There IS a rubber plug in CH3 where you are showing, but there is ALSO a rubber plug on the corresponding place on EH3. If I moved the wire to CH3, it wouldn't be connecting to anything. It sounds to me like you used the Z6 wiring harness...remember I'm stuck with using the Z1 wiring harness, so it's got lots of crazy **** going on.


Modified by DaX at 10:11 AM 11/16/2003

Just got done using the multimeter to check stuff again.

Testing for continuity, I confirmed that my 4 wires from the O2 sensor run to these locations on the ECU:

GRN/WHT =&gt; D22
WHT =&gt; D14
ORN/BLK =&gt; A6
YEL/BLK =&gt; A26

HELM says my YEL/BLK should run to A23. The wire going into A23 does not run to ANY position on the 4 plugs on the passenger shock tower. I have not found where this wire goes to.

If I understand correctly, the function for the wires on the O2 sensor are:

GRN/WHT =&gt; Sensor Ground
WHT =&gt; O2 Signal Wire [Voltage Out]
ORN/BLK =&gt; O2 Heater Control
YEL/BLK =&gt; 12 V Switched [Voltage In]

The wire in A23 on my ECU [where HELM says the YEL/BLK wire should go] is NOT 12V switched. YEL/BLK DOES run to A26, which IS 12V switched.

By assessing this, I think I may have fried my brand new O2 sensor when I had the wires crossed [originally]. To further drive home this guess, I did end up blowing an ECU fuse [15A one underhood] when the wires were originally crossed. Tomorrow I think I may go back to NOPI and buy ANOTHER brand new O2 sensor to either fix the problem or rule out a problematic O2 sensor.


Modified by DaX at 10:31 AM 11/16/2003

civicminded92

Yikes! I didn't see the part about you using the Z1 engine harness! on me. Yes, I used the Z6 engine harness and the Z1 chassis harness.

The helms seems a bit cryptic on the wiring - I'll try to get the info that I used from a haynes (schematic with pin numbers on the ECU) to get this working. But one thing that I didn't have to do was change any of the wiring to the computer itself. I'll look tonight to get the info that I used, and see if I can actually help instead of mucking things up.

Quik Chris

I got you covered.... This is the easiest way IMHO, theres no use in routing wires to the ECU and everything else. Here's the diagram and pictures of mine. No more 02 CEL. P72 and P28 is the exact same in this case.



_





Modified by Quik Chris at 9:44 AM 11/17/2003

DaX

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to try using your diagram either tonight or tomorrow [tired from all the studying I've done today]. I don't know about tapping the ground for the injector...I mean, it's all a ground...I just may tap for ground somewhere else, for asthetic reasons. I'll post back and let everyone know what went on.

Quik Chris

word, whatever works for you. Everything should work our for you... good luck with school as well.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Thanks...school is going pretty good.

Well I no longer have a CEL...first time in...forever it seems. Instead of tapping into the ground [yel/blk] wire on the #4 cylinder injector like you have shown, I pulled the entire harness out of the engine bay [for the millionth time], removed the loom and electric tape [which was dry rotted], and tapped into one of the ground wires [any yel/blk in the engine harness] inside the harness [it happened to be the yel/blk wire that went to the IACV]. I then wrapped the harness back up in new loom and new electric tape, for a brand new spiffy look. If I was going for perfection, I could have added a pin to the 8 pin connector that dead ends on the driver side shock tower [my harness only has 7 of the 8 pins] and run the wire all the way to the yel/blk wire on the o2 sensor plug. I'm fairly certain this is what the 8th pin location is for on the harness. In case anyone is curious, 4 of the yel/blk wires go to the injectors, 1 goes to the IACV, 1 goes to the charcoal purge valve, 1 goes into the 14 pin connector on the driver side shock tower [which leads to the chassis harness], and the empty spot is most likely for the o2 sensor.

Thank you all so very much for your input and help. It's been a pain in the *** to have that little yellow light blaring in my eyes for the past 6 months. Now I get to wire a CX [1 wire o2 sensor] up for a 4 wire...but I'll use my current knowledge on harnesses.

I'll post pictures when I get a chance.