itr909

Hey guys I have a 93 SI hatchback, GSR turbo, since 2002 and about 2 years ago I did a 5 lug conversion. I used a 32mm set up I replaced the brake pads, rotors and did not replace the brake booster or the master cycl. The master cycl. is about 3 years old. My car is not a daily driver. For the past 2 months I have been leaking brake fliud and it appears its coming from the brake booster, is that possible? Is it necessary to up grade to a Type R brake booster and master cycl., Or will my stock SI set up be OK? I have no other problems with the set up aside from the fluid leak, there is NO soft brake peddle, the brake peddle does NOT sink to the floor and the car stops on a dime.

itr909

a.m. bump

itr909

bump anybody

itr909

bump need help guys

sp00ledbseries

Your stock SI is fine. But yes you can upgrade to those. You can even put a NSX master cylinder on there

07jdmfit

also check out accord v6 master and booster , 1 inch piston ,easyer to get and bigger booster , direst fit

timmybilt

your brake master is leaking, just replace it with a stock one or if you think its a upgrade you need, just get the 91 civic ex sedan master cylinder. i believe it is 15/16 or maybe 1'' and will bolt right up to your booster

itr909

So its just my brake master cycl. another ideas?

itr909

bump

itr909

Has anyone upgraded with the suggested items above before to their own car

timmybilt

yes, fluid does not run through your brake booster so its impossible for it to be leaking.
also there are a number of upgrades you can do as far as brake master cylinders go with little to no modifications. just use the search function provided on here until you find one suitible for you or just throw a new stock replacement on there and roll, the stock size mc has been working fine so far so why bother with the upgrade.

Jackal6042

Exactly!!! The booster uses vac pressure to increase pressure on the push rod of the master cyl. If you are leaking fluid from there it is most likely the rear seal on the master cylinder. Time for a rebuild or an upgrade.

I didn't do a 5lug conversion but I did do a rear disc conversion on my EJ1. I used a GSR booster and MC. Going from the EJ1/EG setup you will need to get a larger fitting for one of the hard lines that goes to the MC (EJ1/EG uses two 8mm fitings, ABS equipped DC2s use one 8mm and one 10mm) and you will also need to bend this line as well. May be more work than you want to do.

But based on what you said about pedal feel it sounds like you also have a booster issue or a plugged check valve. Try doing the following function and leak tests, but I bet you need a new booster too...

Brake Booster

Functional Test

1. With the engine stopped, depress the brake pedal
several times, then depress the pedal hard and hold
that pressure for 15 seconds. If the pedal sinks, the
master cylinder, brake line or a brake caliper is
faulty.

2. Start the engine with the pedal depressed. If the
pedal sinks slightly, the vacuum booster is working.
If the pedal height does not vary, the booster or
check valve is faulty.

Leak Test

1. Depress the brake pedal with the engine running,
then stop the engine. If the pedal height does not
vary while depressed for 30 seconds, the vacuum
booster is OK. If the pedal rises, the booster is
faulty.
CAUTION: Do not try to disassemble the booster.
Replace the booster assembly with a new one.

2. With the engine stopped, depress the brake pedal
several times using normal pressure. When the
pedal is first depressed, it should be low. On consecutive
applications, pedal height should gradually
rise. If the pedal position does not vary, check
the booster check valve.

Check Valve Test

1. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose at the
booster.

2. Start the engine and let it idle. There should be
vacuum available. If no vacuum is available, the
check valve is not working correctly.
Replace the check valve and retest.

itr909

Great info!!! I'll try these test tomorrow. Is there anyone that has a 5 lug set up and up graded brake booster and master cycli. if so what did you use and what mods were needed? thanks for the help guys.

timmybilt

why do you need to do the test described above?
sound like the only problem is a leaky master cylinder, as far as wanting someone to tell you what brake upgrade to do and how to do it, why dont you try the SEARCH button at the top of the page???? i know there have been numerous write ups and dicussions on this and to be honest with you, you most likely could have found the answer to your original question by searching also.......... not trying to be a dick, but thats what its there for, so the same question is not asked over and over and over....... you get the point.

oh and just to try and help in your decision, i have ctr 5 lug on one of my hatches and im running the stock 92 si brake master and booster, i dont feel the need for a upgrade, pedal travel and stopping power is just fine.

Jackal6042

He mentioned thinking there may be a booster issue, so I directed him how to properly test for a faulty booster. Though as you said, everything points to a bad MC seal. Preventative checks are never a bad idea. Its like being bored so you make sure nuts and bolts on your car are torqued to spec.

itr909

Well guys there is no need for me to reply with a negative comment. I will just say thanks to Jackal6042. I also only ask question because I would like to know the newest info possible. Some threads can be old and out of date