4X100 vs. 4X114.5 Making them fit and redrilling questions
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4X100 vs. 4X114.5 Making them fit and redrilling questions
Here is the situation. The wheels that I want for my 92 DX hatch have been discontinued. I have searched the net extensively trying to find a set with the proper bolt pattern, all to no avail. I have found a set local, at a good price, that are on a 96 Accord. I realize that the best method would be to get wheels with the proper bolt patter, but if that is not an option, I want to know what other choices I have. As I see it:
Re-drill the wheels. Adding a second set of 4 holes should be ok seeing as how this is how most universal 4-lugs wheels are. Not a big fan of this, but would it work?
96-97 JDM suspension swap. I wouldn't mind this idea, as I would get upgraded brakes with it, however, finding one might prove difficult, and then, from what I understand, getting replacement rotors is a pain, if even possible.
Re-drill my hubs and rotors. Again, as with the wheels, this might be the way to go, as all I will be adding is a second set of holes, so there should be enough space to not weaken the parts. While this is a bit more work (8 pieces as opposed 4) I am leaning toward it. Mainly because then I won't be having to drill into aluminum, I can replace the hubs and rotors much easier if need be, I can resell the wheel easier if need be since they would be unmodified.
Any thoughts or opinions on this would be appreciated.
Josh
Re-drill the wheels. Adding a second set of 4 holes should be ok seeing as how this is how most universal 4-lugs wheels are. Not a big fan of this, but would it work?
96-97 JDM suspension swap. I wouldn't mind this idea, as I would get upgraded brakes with it, however, finding one might prove difficult, and then, from what I understand, getting replacement rotors is a pain, if even possible.
Re-drill my hubs and rotors. Again, as with the wheels, this might be the way to go, as all I will be adding is a second set of holes, so there should be enough space to not weaken the parts. While this is a bit more work (8 pieces as opposed 4) I am leaning toward it. Mainly because then I won't be having to drill into aluminum, I can replace the hubs and rotors much easier if need be, I can resell the wheel easier if need be since they would be unmodified.
Any thoughts or opinions on this would be appreciated.
Josh
#3
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Re: 4X100 vs. 4X114.5 Making them fit and redrilling questions ((hybridhatch92))
i would think the safest way is to just do a suspension swap, i alway feel that to keep things stock mean there is less chance of them breaking and they are easier to replace. thats just IMO....
btw what wheels, car, pics????
btw what wheels, car, pics????
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Re: 4X100 vs. 4X114.5 Making them fit and redrilling questions (darkcvc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thenick »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would personally redrill it </TD></TR></TABLE>
Which, the wheels or the rotors?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by darkcvc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would think the safest way is to just do a suspension swap, i alway feel that to keep things stock mean there is less chance of them breaking and they are easier to replace. thats just IMO....
btw what wheels, car, pics????</TD></TR></TABLE>
That was my first thought, but how hard is it going to be to get new rotors for a 4X114.5 ITR?
Wheels are TSW Imola, only pics of the car are here
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=803493
Working on getting the suspension done right now.
Josh
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Re: 4X100 vs. 4X114.5 Making them fit and redrilling questions ((hybridhatch92))
i would redrill the wheels...........and btw, its 4 x 114.3 not 5
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Re: 4X100 vs. 4X114.5 Making them fit and redrilling questions (thenick)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thenick »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would redrill the wheels...........and btw, its 4 x 114.3 not 5 </TD></TR></TABLE>
Your absolutly right 114.3, lets hope I remeber that when I start redriling
Thanks
Your absolutly right 114.3, lets hope I remeber that when I start redriling
Thanks
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does the wheel have a cap that covers the lignuts? If not I would stay away from a redrill. Even with the best machines getting a hole into a wheel with perfect edges is near impossible so be prepared to have small paint ships around the holes. I would also look at the back of the wheel and see how the mounting pad looks, if its not solid all the way around drilling will not be possible. just some suggestions.
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I've seen some hack jobs on drilling and they look like terrible ****. Sometimes even having a hole not having a complete edge, just 3/4 there. I don't even want to imagine hitting a pothole on a highway doing 70 and the rim break for some reason.
#10
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Re: (Dimi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by (hybridhatch92) »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Wheels are TSW Imola</TD></TR></TABLE>
why waste all that for these
, its your choice though
Wheels are TSW Imola</TD></TR></TABLE>
why waste all that for these
, its your choice though
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Re: (upgraded)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by upgraded »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does the wheel have a cap that covers the lignuts? If not I would stay away from a redrill. Even with the best machines getting a hole into a wheel with perfect edges is near impossible so be prepared to have small paint ships around the holes. I would also look at the back of the wheel and see how the mounting pad looks, if its not solid all the way around drilling will not be possible. just some suggestions. </TD></TR></TABLE>
It does indeed have a cap, so if the holes aren't perfect, it would be OK. I am not sure about the mounting pad.
I will tell you all this, redrilling the wheel isn't my first choice.
Is drilling the hub and calipers a better way?
Josh
It does indeed have a cap, so if the holes aren't perfect, it would be OK. I am not sure about the mounting pad.
I will tell you all this, redrilling the wheel isn't my first choice.
Is drilling the hub and calipers a better way?
Josh
#12
Re: (darkcvc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by darkcvc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
why waste all that for these
, its your choice though</TD></TR></TABLE> yeh totally, no offense
why waste all that for these
, its your choice though</TD></TR></TABLE> yeh totally, no offense
#13
Re: ((hybridhatch92))
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by (hybridhatch92) »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It does indeed have a cap, so if the holes aren't perfect, it would be OK. I am not sure about the mounting pad.
I will tell you all this, redrilling the wheel isn't my first choice.
Is drilling the hub and calipers a better way?
Josh</TD></TR></TABLE>
drilling nothing is a better choice. Get the 96spec itr brakes
It does indeed have a cap, so if the holes aren't perfect, it would be OK. I am not sure about the mounting pad.
I will tell you all this, redrilling the wheel isn't my first choice.
Is drilling the hub and calipers a better way?
Josh</TD></TR></TABLE>
drilling nothing is a better choice. Get the 96spec itr brakes
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Re: (eg64u)
Check Tire Rack, or Discount Tire, I'm sure you can find a wheel that will make you happy. Just swap your tires over afterward. I had to do this when I dented 2 wheels hitting a landscape brick that was dropped in the road. I too had discontinued wheels. I think safety is more important than trying to drill an existing set of wheels.
#16
Re: (x743x)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by x743x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
drilling nothing is a better choice. Get the 96spec itr brakes</TD></TR></TABLE>
This would be the proper way to go. As far as rotors, you can buy the Prelude Vtec rotors, they are the same as ITR 4x114
drilling nothing is a better choice. Get the 96spec itr brakes</TD></TR></TABLE>
This would be the proper way to go. As far as rotors, you can buy the Prelude Vtec rotors, they are the same as ITR 4x114
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