fms1day

Hello H-T, so the thing is, I'm planning to do a 4-wheel disc brake conversion all around for my '92 hatchback.. By all around, I mean the fronts as well and not just referring to the back drums. My question is whether this is a possible one man job [excluding the bleeding of the brakes which I can have someone quickly help me out with] and how long would it taking considering the following:
1) Conversion being done in home garage
2) Car will only be jacked up as high as a jack would take it [2-3feet maybe]
3) Tools: all hand... no air no power.
4) One man working on this.
5) Just an amateur at working with cars...

Just wondering how long might this take because I heard it's a lot harder if I don't have a lift because 2-3 feet doesn't provide much room to work on the bolts, nuts, and stuff... If anyone has estimates on when they did it... [preferable with the use of a jack and not a lift] please let me know.. and what to look out for... Reason for why I'm asking is I want to estimate on whether it's possible to do it on the consecutive days off I have from work [when I get them] so that I don't have to get stuck taking the bus or public transportation to work during this rainy season...

A How-to thread would help too

Good ol' Screwtape

You can do it yourself if you're committed to it and you should be able to accomplish your job with the car 2-3 feet in the air. Just be prepared to be on your back and getting dirty a lot. Air tools help tremendously, but aren't always necessary. You might think of investing into some air tools if you plan on doing a lot of auto-work further down the road. Otherwise, it all depends on the bolts under there. Sometimes they just get so seized it can be almost impossible to break them loose with a ratchet or even a small breaker bar.

For my rear disc brake conversion, including new rotors and pads it took me about six hours if I recall. But that's only because I really like to take my time...and there were a couple of football games on. I probably could have done it in 2-3 hours if I was committed. Maybe 1 hour if I had an assistant.

Which disc brake conversion are you using for the front/back?

BTW, where in CA are you located?

fms1day

it's off of a DC integra... I'm located around San Francisco, CA

Good ol' Screwtape

Why are you using the fronts off the Integra? Why not keep your Civic fronts? Unless you mean the brakes off a DC5 Integra (5-lug conversion)?

DRAMA

with air tools car on jackstands, using one jack. took me about 5-10 min per side to swap the trailing arms out. running the ebrake cable was more of a pita for me. with hand tools only, dunno how long all depends on your speed with working on cars.

ek_hatchi96

put your mind to anything and you can accomplish anytihng you put yourself to

fms1day

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Screwtape. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why are you using the fronts off the Integra? Why not keep your Civic fronts? Unless you mean the brakes off a DC5 Integra (5-lug conversion)?</TD></TR></TABLE>

My '92 hatch is a CX so the original brakes are considerably smaller... So I figured I'd do an entire conversion...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StReEt TuNeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with air tools car on jackstands, using one jack. took me about 5-10 min per side to swap the trailing arms out. running the ebrake cable was more of a pita for me. with hand tools only, dunno how long all depends on your speed with working on cars.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And this 5-10 minute includes bleeding the brakes?

fms1day

BUMP, a couple more questions...

Is it possible to change the Master Brake Cylinder and the Prop Valve on a '92 CX from its original to a 15/16" MBC and a 40/40 Prop Valve, without changing any of the actual brakes.... In other words, can I still brake efficiently with a 15/16" MBC and a 40/40 Prop Valve but still running on two front disc and 2 rear drums? or will the change of the 40/40 prop valve change the characteristics of the rear drum brakes?

EK-Chris

From what I have read on HT adding the 40/40 -vs- stock 40/30 yields no drastic improvements. I have a 96 CX and went from a stock 13/16 to a 1 inch MC from an R. The pedal travel was reduced significantly. &lt;It also helps I have R brakes&gt; I had a 40/40 prop valve, but when you see the 6 lines you have to release, not to mention the bracket, you just might want to do the booster upgrade. (Especially if you have never done such a thing) Brake jobs can go from good to bad if you strip any lines.. Good luck woth your swap!

fms1day

I see... well, I plan on doing the entire swap... from rears and fronts, to MBC and 40/40... Aren't there 6 lines in a stock Prop. Valve anyways? [note I haven't looked at my original one in the car] or is there less than 6 due to the fact that it's 2 disc fronts and 2 drum rears?

fms1day

BUMP... any type of problems other members encountered when doing a disc brake conversion? [ex. certain problematic bolts?]

tracebuzta

look over your new trailing arms (if you bought used) and make sure there is no damage

i installed my conversion, lowered it to the ground, and had uncorrectable camber/caster/toe problems because i had been ripped off and sold bent parts

if you could, you should invest 300 into a compressor and some air tools. if your going to do projects like this and misc car work

Ricey McRicerton

You're going to be out at least a day or two if it's your first time and you're doing it by yourself. I've changed mine no less than 5 times and could probally get everything done in under 5 hours if I really hustled.

fms1day

Thanks for the infos guys

Ricey McRicerton

If you get stuck, feel free to PM me. I've done this a bunch of times and am here to help.

Honest advice, have a second back handy to help hold stuff in place while you try to get bolts through. Also don't be scared to try and "convince" things into place with a hammer.

EK-Chris

Your prop valve is still going to have 6 lines. It doesnt matter if you have drum in the back; then lines are the same.

JDMH22HATCH

iTrader: (6)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tracebuzta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">look over your new trailing arms (if you bought used) and make sure there is no damage

i installed my conversion, lowered it to the ground, and had uncorrectable camber/caster/toe problems because i had been ripped off and sold bent parts

if you could, you should invest 300 into a compressor and some air tools. if your going to do projects like this and misc car work</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is exactly why I use my original trailing arms for the swap. Here is a how to that I wrote a few years ago on how to do the swap while retaining your factory trailing arms. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=426445

XkjeldorX

i did a rear disk conversion on my 95 cx and it took me about 7-8 hrs alone. i had air tools though. i didnt change my prop valve or master cylinder or booster and i still brake better than i did before. i change my rotors to brembo blanks all around and axxis pads too. just do rears and it'll be less trouble and u will brake better still.

LsVtakYO

watch out for the lower control arm bolt all 3 of them they usually break.at the shop i worked at we did lots of rear disc convos and the same bolts kept snapping,the bolt itself gets stuck inside the rubber insert.the heads usually snap off or the rubber just turns with the bolt.

Redline96LX

Just finished doing my 4 wheel full brake upgrade. 96 DX brakes to basically Integra DC4 brakes. Did it myself, took a lot of cursing, but its doable. Rear spindle bolts are VERY hard to do without air tools, UNLESS you take em off the car and just ****** brute force it. If you take off the front knuckles, that axle nut is gonna be a bitch, but is doable without air tools.

Did it in my garage in December, 40 degrees outside. The swap sucked, I did it, but would not do it again, at least not in those conditions. Again, lots and lots of cursing, screw honda, i hate you civic, hondas suck, ******* moneypit, all that stuff. I still love my girl.
NOTE!!!!!

The e-brake cable goin to the drum assembly, use a 13mm box end wrench over the spring clip. took me 3 hours to figure out, and almost a set of bolt cutters.

1point7db2

So must you change the e-brake cable to the dc integra one? Is that a bitch to get out, I know it is on a crx, you practicaly have to drop the tank.

Ricey McRicerton

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blownEG93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So must you change the e-brake cable to the dc integra one? Is that a bitch to get out, I know it is on a crx, you practicaly have to drop the tank.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, you have to swap cables. If you look at the drum cables beside the disk cables they don't attach the same way at all.

Cuda70

This is where having a good jack handle is your best friend.

I often use the jack handle as a breaker bar. It is pretty thick walled, and wont bend. I just slide the ratchet handle into an open end and wa-laa, I have a good sized breaker bar that I can put a lot of torque on if needed.

Investing in a good pickle fork or renting one from Auto Zone is a good idea as well, and will make your suspension job a lot easier.

Cuda70

Also, it is a very good idea to get the proper break line wrench if you are planning on doing anything with break lines. A set is not that expensive, and you will have the piece of mind that you wont strip out a break fitting.

A break line wrench looks like a typical wrench, but instead of working on only 2 flat sides of the hex (Bolt head) it actually works on 5 sides and makes stripping nearly impossible.

fms1day

Thanks for all the infos guys, I'm just waiting for a good day in the weather since it's been raining every other day.

And Redline96LX, I saw your thread. Nice job!