sladed16y8

hey i am planing on saving 4 grand this summer so i can get a gsr for my civic my questions are is it a bitch putting gsr's into civic's? should i get a obd1 motor and switch my car over or get a obd2 one? are obd1 motors cheaper? any more side expenses besides mounts and shift linkage? and my friends got a regular gsr and i am wandering if i will beat him i know it will be close but civic are a little lighter? anyone us done this how much did it cost you? thanks!

Skunk.Werks

iTrader: (2)

We have a lot of info on this subject. Please refer to the "RED SEARCH BUTTON" at the top right hand corner of this page.

ham

get an obd1 gsr, it will be much easier. all the sensors and everything will plug right in. you will need mounts, linkage and vtec wiring if you need it. i recommend hmotorsonline.com for the whole changeover.

your civic with a gsr should be slightly faster than an integra gsr.

BLUIZE256

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sladed16y8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey i am planing on saving 4 grand this summer so i can get a gsr for my civic
anyone us done this how much did it cost you? thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

dude.. you should be safe with even just 3000

i only spent 2600. .

as for the rest, theres mad info if you goto search and type in GSR or gsr swap civic

Blk00EJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ham &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get an obd1 gsr, it will be much easier.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That depends on the chassis and harness, of course. Otherwise it could be as easy as plugging a few more clips in... which is nothing. I did mine a few months ago, OBD2

I would say this though.. getting an OBD1 means it's older. Older generally means a greater chance it was already beat on, is more worn in, and will not last as long. Just my opinion. The slight price difference doesn't justify the risk of having more miles on it when you get it.

Reflex

I had a 98 hatch and i spent 4400 on the whole front clip swap. it was obd2 and was wired perfectly. didnt have ONE problem with it. i never lost to an integra in a race. had the stock integra exhaust just cut for my car and just a little intake filter. it was all for all stock and it ran like a ****. gl with ur swap.

ham

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EKcivicEX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That depends on the chassis and harness, of course. Otherwise it could be as easy as plugging a few more clips in... which is nothing. I did mine a few months ago, OBD2

I would say this though.. getting an OBD1 means it's older. Older generally means a greater chance it was already beat on, is more worn in, and will not last as long. Just my opinion. The slight price difference doesn't justify the risk of having more miles on it when you get it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i keep forgetting this is the 92-2000 forum... i assumed he was working on an EG but yeah, you are right.

honda97hb

i just found this, http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...p.php just what i was looking for

Blk00EJ8

Hmm, too bad I didn't see anything like that when I did mine... I did a TON of reading, just no step-by-step. GL

slayerfromhell212

my bro just bought a motor from Hmotorsonline he paid hmmm 3100 for a 94-95 gsr obd1 it came with everything but we put it in a 94 cx hatch you still have to buy a aftermarket radiator and radiator hoses so it will be all bolt on no worries but make sure that all the sensors are gd double check it they sometimes come up fucked up so check realy close

1 more thing when you buy a motor always and i mean always change water pump timing belt and change all the seal and if possible after you have wasted alot of money ahaha which you will change the spark plugs and cables also do the dizzy cap and rotor thats about everything so it be best if you have a 92-95 get obd1 its all plug and play but if ya want to get the obd2 your going to have to buy the wiring harness well pz out hope i gaved ya alot of pointers pz

nekoabandoned

iTrader: (-1)

had to buy a radiator? why?

slayerfromhell212

i had to buy a radoator so the car wont get hot plus if i got one and did not need it oh well maybe the next step is to go turbo

Blk00EJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nekoabandoned &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">had to buy a radiator? why?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ditto. The Civic's half-size dual-core radiator does just fine (that's if you have a dual core radiator). Even though the fittings on the d-series' radiator is 28 mm and the hoses for the b-series are 32 mm, you can make it work with some worm clamps

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

I picked up a Del Sol VTEC dual core radiator from RadiatorBarn.com for about $100. Fits like OEM in my EG hatch, and has the 32mm hose headers.

To the OP (if he has an EG): I opted for an OBD-2 motor since I wanted a Type-R. It's still a very easy swap and is almost plug & play. All you will need is an OBD-2 JDM B18C complete motor swap, a USDM OBD-2 GSR engine wire harness, a Del Sol VTEC radiator, and have your stock OBD-1 ECU chipped & reconfigured to run the new motor (I had H-T member Kenji do it for me). This keeps the car OBD-1 even with the newer motor...

The OBD-2 integra engine harness plugs directly into your vehicles main harness (with the exception of an extra OBD-2 plug), and works like a charm. And depending on exactly what trim/model civic you have, you will have to run a couple wires from the passengers side shock-tower harness plug, straight to the ECU plug (Vtec sol, IAB, etc...).

hatchnideas

why not turbo your car as is? i know it may seem dumb to a lot of people, but after looking into it, its cheaper and you get more power even at low boost. just a thought cuz i was looking into a gsr swap as well, till i read more. four grand buys a nice tubo setup as well...

oh and if you do the swap anyways, what motor do you have now? what will you do with when you swap? haha id like to have a block to build... i'd be happy to take it off your hands

sladed16y8

yea but the kit is 2500 + tune + installation and my car already has 170000 miles on it so its recommended to build it so thats plus another 1000 so same as a swap

Blk00EJ8

I think you need to read more before taking anything out or putting anything into your car. And definitely compression test your 170k motor after you read.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatchnideas &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">four grand buys a nice tubo setup as well... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Phew... I'd like to be the guy who pieces together a $1500 turbo setup and sells it to you for $4000. For 4-5 grand, you should be able to get a more durable B series, lightly build it, turbo it, and tune it. Then you have more piece of mind in addition to a decent setup.

BEYAAAH

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skunk.Werks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We have a lot of info on this subject. Please refer to the "RED SEARCH BUTTON" at the top right hand corner of this page.</TD></TR></TABLE>