4 to 5 lug conversion on 1996 coupe ex?
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: usa
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
4 to 5 lug conversion on 1996 coupe ex?
i have been using the search and looking allover the faqs, but i cant find an actual explanation of how to do it. do i really have to buy some expensive fancy kit? thanks i appreciate the help
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: united states
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well i see no one wants to give you a definite answer..from what i was told ,,you need calipers of a prelude,legend,itr,,itr hubs f&r ,bearing of a itr or ls and itr rotors,,and a mazda axle nut for the rear assembly..im not sure whats completely involve in doing this swap since every 1 says not to do it this way..
#6
B*a*n*n*e*d
well i see no one wants to give you a definite answer..from what i was told ,,you need calipers of a prelude,legend,itr,,itr hubs f&r ,bearing of a itr or ls and itr rotors,,and a mazda axle nut for the rear assembly..im not sure whats completely involve in doing this swap since every 1 says not to do it this way..
wrong........don't try and piece it together because you'll end up spending more money and doing more work, plus i'm not a fan of the mazda axle nut way. it just doesn't seem safe to me. and you don't have to drop the whole suspension. it's doing unnecessary work. here's a fairly detailed way to do it.
Fronts:
1) remove to cotter pin from the lower ball joint and the on the spindle and take of the 17mm nut.
2) remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end and remove that 17mm nut.
3) with a 10mm line wrench, disconnect the soft brake line from the hard line. you won't need these soft lines, you will use the itr ones.
4) with a pair of channel locks remove the clip that prevents the brake line from coming out. if you have the rubber nipple on your bleeder valve on your caliper put it over the hard line to keep you from losing excess brake fluid.
5) if you have the cover over the ball joint in your upper control arm then remove the two 10mm bolts that keep the cover on.
6) remover the cotter pin and take off the 17mm nut that holds the spindle onto the upper control arm.
7) using a 32mm socket remove the axle nut
8) now however your method, dislodge the ball joints. and what i mean by your method, i've seen a couple of ways. using a ball joint separater, also called a pickle fork, you put in between the ball joint and spindle on all three ball joints and hammer it in between the two until they pop out. however there is a good chance you will mess up the ball joints. another way is to take a sledge hammer and hit the spindle where the shaft of the ball joint goes into the hole on the upper ball joint and where the tie rod end is, and hit on the lower control arm where the hole is that the shaft from the ball joint goes in to, and after a few good hits it will pop out.
9) take the spindle out and just go in reverse order when installing the itr 5 lug assembly, minus the hammering obviously. make sure you replace the cotter pins and torque everything to factory specifications.
for the rear:
1) using a 10mm line wrench, disconnect the soft brake line from the hard line. you will not nedd these soft lines you will use the itr ones.
2) with a pair of channel locks remove the clip that prevents the brake line from coming out. if you have the rubber nipple on your bleeder valve on your caliper put it over the hard line to keep you from losing excess brake fluid.
3) using either a 14mm or 17mm (i don't remember exactly the size of everything on the rear but know it's one of the two) remove the bolt at the front of the trailing arm (the part that's closest to the front of your car) from the compensator arm. do not loosen the compensator arm.
4) using either a 14mm or 17mm remove the bolt that connects the rear trailing arm from the upper control arm.
5) using either a 14mm or 17mm remove the bolt that connects the rear trailing arm from the lower control arm.
6) if you already have rear discs, make sure the parking brake is disengaged and remove the parking brake cable from the caliper. i don't remember exactly what is involved but if you're able to get this far you can figure it out. if you don't have rear discs then you will need to get parking brake cables from an integra or 99-00 si and install them which involves a few 10mm bolt connecting the parking brake cable to the chassis and a 10mm adjuster connecting the cables to the parking brake handle.
7) remove the two 17mm bolts that hold the rear trailing arm to the chassis where the rear trailing arm bushing is. and if you were ever gonna consider doing it now would be the time to install polyurethane rear trailing arm bushings.
8) take out the rear trailing arm and install the itr rear trailing arm assembly in reverse order and torque everything to factory specifications.
9) bleed all your brakes and have fun.
This should be pretty much everything, if i've left something out please someone add or correct if needed. I hope this helps. now granted there is a write up in the FAQ's but it's not as detailed so hopefully this will help you a little better.
Last edited by EFRue57; 11-30-2008 at 03:59 PM.
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Dubuque, Iowa, United States
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What's your reason for doing the 5 lug swap? Bigger brakes? So you can say you're JDM tyte?
Honestly, I've looked into this to see what the purpose of it is. If it's better brakes you're wanting, this isn't the solution. IIRC the 5 lug setups use the same size brakes as the 4 lug setups. Also, swapping to this won't give you a bigger rim choice because of the bolt pattern. The other problem with this swap is that you need parts off a ITR or CTR, which are not cheap by any means.
If anyone seriously knows the reason for this swap, I myself would like to know. As of now I see no reason to do it.
Honestly, I've looked into this to see what the purpose of it is. If it's better brakes you're wanting, this isn't the solution. IIRC the 5 lug setups use the same size brakes as the 4 lug setups. Also, swapping to this won't give you a bigger rim choice because of the bolt pattern. The other problem with this swap is that you need parts off a ITR or CTR, which are not cheap by any means.
If anyone seriously knows the reason for this swap, I myself would like to know. As of now I see no reason to do it.
Trending Topics
#8
i heard something like a 5 fug is more secure than 4? that guy said its worthit if your adding lots of power?? heard something like that..so youe whels wont fly off when boosting crazy power..
#9
B*a*n*n*e*d
What's your reason for doing the 5 lug swap? Bigger brakes? So you can say you're JDM tyte?
Honestly, I've looked into this to see what the purpose of it is. If it's better brakes you're wanting, this isn't the solution. IIRC the 5 lug setups use the same size brakes as the 4 lug setups. Also, swapping to this won't give you a bigger rim choice because of the bolt pattern. The other problem with this swap is that you need parts off a ITR or CTR, which are not cheap by any means.
If anyone seriously knows the reason for this swap, I myself would like to know. As of now I see no reason to do it.
Honestly, I've looked into this to see what the purpose of it is. If it's better brakes you're wanting, this isn't the solution. IIRC the 5 lug setups use the same size brakes as the 4 lug setups. Also, swapping to this won't give you a bigger rim choice because of the bolt pattern. The other problem with this swap is that you need parts off a ITR or CTR, which are not cheap by any means.
If anyone seriously knows the reason for this swap, I myself would like to know. As of now I see no reason to do it.
also with your fancy big brake kit, good luck getting replacement rotors and pads. i've seen most companies who sell the big brake kits and that's all they sell are the kits, not the replacement rotors and pads. so again good luck.
also you have different wheel options and some people would like a certain wheel that might only come in 5 lug.
and lastly and probably most importantly, it their car, not yours. i didn't do my 5 lug for your approval, i did it because i liked it. i'm sure there are things done to your car that not everyone would agree with but i bet you don't care about that because it's your car and your decision, not everyone elses.
oh and by the way, all usdm itr's came with 5 lug so therefore it wouldn't be "JDM tyte".
Last edited by EFRue57; 11-30-2008 at 05:14 PM.
#11
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Dubuque, Iowa, United States
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
because not everyone who wants bigger brakes tracks their car and likes having the ease of going down to their local dealership or auto parts store and being able to buy factory rotors and pads right then instead of having to track them down on the internet and waiting for them to be shipped to them.
also with your fancy big brake kit, good luck getting replacement rotors and pads. i've seen most companies who sell the big brake kits and that's all they sell are the kits, not the replacement rotors and pads. so again good luck.
also you have different wheel options and some people would like a certain wheel that might only come in 5 lug.
and lastly and probably most importantly, it their car, not yours. i didn't do my 5 lug for your approval, i did it because i liked it. i'm sure there are things done to your car that not everyone would agree with but i bet you don't care about that because it's your car and your decision, not everyone elses.
oh and by the way, all usdm itr's came with 5 lug so therefore it wouldn't be "JDM tyte".
also with your fancy big brake kit, good luck getting replacement rotors and pads. i've seen most companies who sell the big brake kits and that's all they sell are the kits, not the replacement rotors and pads. so again good luck.
also you have different wheel options and some people would like a certain wheel that might only come in 5 lug.
and lastly and probably most importantly, it their car, not yours. i didn't do my 5 lug for your approval, i did it because i liked it. i'm sure there are things done to your car that not everyone would agree with but i bet you don't care about that because it's your car and your decision, not everyone elses.
oh and by the way, all usdm itr's came with 5 lug so therefore it wouldn't be "JDM tyte".
Also, if you're worried about 4 lugs not holding, think again. I'm pretty sure that I've seen lots of 4 lug drag cars that run 9's. Not only Civics/Integras do that, but tons of Foxbody Mustangs also.
I understand wanting customization, but to me there's no advantages to doing this, especially when there are much better ways to spend the money.
#12
B*a*n*n*e*d
Not sure why the 5 lug "looks" better than 4 lug. All you see is 1 more lug nut. *shrug* Also, you can almost always get the same wheels in the different bolt patterns. It's not like they only make each wheel for only 1 specific bolt pattern.
Also, if you're worried about 4 lugs not holding, think again. I'm pretty sure that I've seen lots of 4 lug drag cars that run 9's. Not only Civics/Integras do that, but tons of Foxbody Mustangs also.
I understand wanting customization, but to me there's no advantages to doing this, especially when there are much better ways to spend the money.
Also, if you're worried about 4 lugs not holding, think again. I'm pretty sure that I've seen lots of 4 lug drag cars that run 9's. Not only Civics/Integras do that, but tons of Foxbody Mustangs also.
I understand wanting customization, but to me there's no advantages to doing this, especially when there are much better ways to spend the money.
funny how you copied my post but didn't have anything to say really about what i posted. i didn't say anything about it looking better. and no sometimes they do make wheels in certain sizes for only 5 x 114 and especially if you are wanting a certain oem wheel.
i never said anything about 4 lug "holding better" than 5 lug. i think that's retarded. 4 lugs will hold just as well as 5 as long as everything is torqued right.
and if you think there are no advantages then tell you what, go spend the money on your 4 lug big brake kit and when it comes time to replace your rotors, tell me how that goes for you. let me know how easy it was for you to get compared to me going down to acura and buying them and getting them right there.
and obviously you don't understand "customization", if that's what you want to call it even though it's not really custom because plenty of people have done it, because if you did you would realize that everybody has different tastes but god forbid it doesn't agree with your liking.
to me my 5 lug was one of my best investments, increased braking power with oem quality and the ease of getting replacement parts without having to search all over the internet and waiting 2 weeks for delivery. and again please show me a site where you can get a big brake kit and where they sell the replacement rotors and pads. and please do tell where the money would be better invested as far as braking is concerned.
#13
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Dubuque, Iowa, United States
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What brakes can you put on a 5 lug that are OEM that are bigger than OEM 4 lug brakes? I'm not talking about using an aftermarket big brake kit, I think those are usually retarded. God forbid you'd have to buy replacement parts for your big brake kit because I'm sure you'd get railed.
I understand customization, I just don't see the point in spending all the money for this swap when there's so many other things you could do with the money.
I understand customization, I just don't see the point in spending all the money for this swap when there's so many other things you could do with the money.
#14
B*a*n*n*e*d
What brakes can you put on a 5 lug that are OEM that are bigger than OEM 4 lug brakes? I'm not talking about using an aftermarket big brake kit, I think those are usually retarded. God forbid you'd have to buy replacement parts for your big brake kit because I'm sure you'd get railed.
I understand customization, I just don't see the point in spending all the money for this swap when there's so many other things you could do with the money.
I understand customization, I just don't see the point in spending all the money for this swap when there's so many other things you could do with the money.
next time have some actual technical, verified information before you start posting.
#15
Re: 4 to 5 lug conversion on 1996 coupe ex?
wrong........don't try and piece it together because you'll end up spending more money and doing more work, plus i'm not a fan of the mazda axle nut way. it just doesn't seem safe to me. and you don't have to drop the whole suspension. it's doing unnecessary work. here's a fairly detailed way to do it.
Fronts:
1) remove to cotter pin from the lower ball joint and the on the spindle and take of the 17mm nut.
2) remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end and remove that 17mm nut.
3) with a 10mm line wrench, disconnect the soft brake line from the hard line. you won't need these soft lines, you will use the itr ones.
4) with a pair of channel locks remove the clip that prevents the brake line from coming out. if you have the rubber nipple on your bleeder valve on your caliper put it over the hard line to keep you from losing excess brake fluid.
5) if you have the cover over the ball joint in your upper control arm then remove the two 10mm bolts that keep the cover on.
6) remover the cotter pin and take off the 17mm nut that holds the spindle onto the upper control arm.
7) using a 32mm socket remove the axle nut
8) now however your method, dislodge the ball joints. and what i mean by your method, i've seen a couple of ways. using a ball joint separater, also called a pickle fork, you put in between the ball joint and spindle on all three ball joints and hammer it in between the two until they pop out. however there is a good chance you will mess up the ball joints. another way is to take a sledge hammer and hit the spindle where the shaft of the ball joint goes into the hole on the upper ball joint and where the tie rod end is, and hit on the lower control arm where the hole is that the shaft from the ball joint goes in to, and after a few good hits it will pop out.
9) take the spindle out and just go in reverse order when installing the itr 5 lug assembly, minus the hammering obviously. make sure you replace the cotter pins and torque everything to factory specifications.
for the rear:
1) using a 10mm line wrench, disconnect the soft brake line from the hard line. you will not nedd these soft lines you will use the itr ones.
2) with a pair of channel locks remove the clip that prevents the brake line from coming out. if you have the rubber nipple on your bleeder valve on your caliper put it over the hard line to keep you from losing excess brake fluid.
3) using either a 14mm or 17mm (i don't remember exactly the size of everything on the rear but know it's one of the two) remove the bolt at the front of the trailing arm (the part that's closest to the front of your car) from the compensator arm. do not loosen the compensator arm.
4) using either a 14mm or 17mm remove the bolt that connects the rear trailing arm from the upper control arm.
5) using either a 14mm or 17mm remove the bolt that connects the rear trailing arm from the lower control arm.
6) if you already have rear discs, make sure the parking brake is disengaged and remove the parking brake cable from the caliper. i don't remember exactly what is involved but if you're able to get this far you can figure it out. if you don't have rear discs then you will need to get parking brake cables from an integra or 99-00 si and install them which involves a few 10mm bolt connecting the parking brake cable to the chassis and a 10mm adjuster connecting the cables to the parking brake handle.
7) remove the two 17mm bolts that hold the rear trailing arm to the chassis where the rear trailing arm bushing is. and if you were ever gonna consider doing it now would be the time to install polyurethane rear trailing arm bushings.
8) take out the rear trailing arm and install the itr rear trailing arm assembly in reverse order and torque everything to factory specifications.
9) bleed all your brakes and have fun.
This should be pretty much everything, if i've left something out please someone add or correct if needed. I hope this helps. now granted there is a write up in the FAQ's but it's not as detailed so hopefully this will help you a little better.
Fronts:
1) remove to cotter pin from the lower ball joint and the on the spindle and take of the 17mm nut.
2) remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end and remove that 17mm nut.
3) with a 10mm line wrench, disconnect the soft brake line from the hard line. you won't need these soft lines, you will use the itr ones.
4) with a pair of channel locks remove the clip that prevents the brake line from coming out. if you have the rubber nipple on your bleeder valve on your caliper put it over the hard line to keep you from losing excess brake fluid.
5) if you have the cover over the ball joint in your upper control arm then remove the two 10mm bolts that keep the cover on.
6) remover the cotter pin and take off the 17mm nut that holds the spindle onto the upper control arm.
7) using a 32mm socket remove the axle nut
8) now however your method, dislodge the ball joints. and what i mean by your method, i've seen a couple of ways. using a ball joint separater, also called a pickle fork, you put in between the ball joint and spindle on all three ball joints and hammer it in between the two until they pop out. however there is a good chance you will mess up the ball joints. another way is to take a sledge hammer and hit the spindle where the shaft of the ball joint goes into the hole on the upper ball joint and where the tie rod end is, and hit on the lower control arm where the hole is that the shaft from the ball joint goes in to, and after a few good hits it will pop out.
9) take the spindle out and just go in reverse order when installing the itr 5 lug assembly, minus the hammering obviously. make sure you replace the cotter pins and torque everything to factory specifications.
for the rear:
1) using a 10mm line wrench, disconnect the soft brake line from the hard line. you will not nedd these soft lines you will use the itr ones.
2) with a pair of channel locks remove the clip that prevents the brake line from coming out. if you have the rubber nipple on your bleeder valve on your caliper put it over the hard line to keep you from losing excess brake fluid.
3) using either a 14mm or 17mm (i don't remember exactly the size of everything on the rear but know it's one of the two) remove the bolt at the front of the trailing arm (the part that's closest to the front of your car) from the compensator arm. do not loosen the compensator arm.
4) using either a 14mm or 17mm remove the bolt that connects the rear trailing arm from the upper control arm.
5) using either a 14mm or 17mm remove the bolt that connects the rear trailing arm from the lower control arm.
6) if you already have rear discs, make sure the parking brake is disengaged and remove the parking brake cable from the caliper. i don't remember exactly what is involved but if you're able to get this far you can figure it out. if you don't have rear discs then you will need to get parking brake cables from an integra or 99-00 si and install them which involves a few 10mm bolt connecting the parking brake cable to the chassis and a 10mm adjuster connecting the cables to the parking brake handle.
7) remove the two 17mm bolts that hold the rear trailing arm to the chassis where the rear trailing arm bushing is. and if you were ever gonna consider doing it now would be the time to install polyurethane rear trailing arm bushings.
8) take out the rear trailing arm and install the itr rear trailing arm assembly in reverse order and torque everything to factory specifications.
9) bleed all your brakes and have fun.
This should be pretty much everything, if i've left something out please someone add or correct if needed. I hope this helps. now granted there is a write up in the FAQ's but it's not as detailed so hopefully this will help you a little better.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
xlasianizelx
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
2
01-13-2011 05:54 PM