WHAT TEH

i just bought this BB & MC... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1799045

i'm installin' it into an EH3 (EG), non-ABS. my original hardlines used a 10mm fitting to connect to tha 13/16" MC. since tha 1" MC i bought was meant for an ABS-equipped vehicle, tha rear port line (closer to BB) uses a 12mm fitting.

i, eventually, will have some custom braided hoses made (if possible). but i want to put a reducer (12mm to 10mm) for now just to get tha car goin'.

i can't find any metric fitting (reducer) from either Earls or Russel, espeically anythin' with a 25 thread-pitch. if any of you guys have ran into this problem, what have you done? i appreciate any positive suggestions.

thanks,
_taF

WHAT TEH

bump

API Tech

You could get an -AN fitting adapter (12mm to -3) and flare the line using a -3 tube nut and sleeve.

You would have to use a 37.5 degree flare tool, do NOT use a normal 45degree

WHAT TEH

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by API Tech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You could get an -AN fitting adapter (12mm to -3) and flare the line using a -3 tube nut and sleeve.

You would have to use a 37.5 degree flare tool, do NOT use a normal 45degree</TD></TR></TABLE>
tha AN size (outter diameter of tube) of tha 12mm is tha same as tha 10mm line. tha only difference is just tha 12mm screw fitting. i can't find a metric fitting anywhere. not even Earls or Russel carry them. i can't even find a reducer. again, it's harder that it's metric and especially harder tryin' to find a 25 pitch-thread.

if you can help me further, could you direct me where to look or for tha pieces i need?

i appreciate your help.

_taF

API Tech

There is no such thing as a metric 25 pitch (25 is a standard measurement).

It is going to be a pitch size in mm (i.e. 1.0,1.25,1.5), I also doubt it is 12mm, that would make it the same size as your banjo bolt on the fuel filter, do you mean it takes a 12mm wrench?

Use a metric pitch gauge and measure the size of the fitting w/ a pair of calipers. This may make it easier for you to find the right parts......

I didn't really read your post the first time.....oopps

Targa250R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tallazzFilipino &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just bought this BB & MC... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1799045

i'm installin' it into an EH3 (EG), non-ABS.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just curious, what brakes are you using?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i, eventually, will have some custom braided hoses made (if possible).</TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't run flexible lines directly off the master cylinder. That's a recipe for shitty pedal feel. As a general rule, for high pressure hydraulic lines such as in a brake system, you only use flexible lines where you actually need them to flex (such as to follow suspension movement). The rest should be regular hard lines.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i want to put a reducer (12mm to 10mm) for now just to get tha car goin'.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just save yourself time, money, and hassle - do it the right way the first time. Pick up a 12mm fitting, a tubing cutter, and a flaring tool. Cut the flared edge off the end of the line, pull off the 10mm fitting, slip on the new 12mm fitting, and re-flare the line. Voila - you're done in less than 10 minutes, and ready to bleed the system.

WHAT TEH

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by API Tech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is no such thing as a metric 25 pitch (25 is a standard measurement).

It is going to be a pitch size in mm (i.e. 1.0,1.25,1.5), I also doubt it is 12mm, that would make it the same size as your banjo bolt on the fuel filter, do you mean it takes a 12mm wrench?

Use a metric pitch gauge and measure the size of the fitting w/ a pair of calipers. This may make it easier for you to find the right parts......

I didn't really read your post the first time.....oopps
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, tha nut fitting to fasten tha stainless steel hardlines comin' off tha prop' valve, both use a 10mm box wrench. that's tha metric part i was talkin' about.

tha thread pitch is just 25 -- that's what my dad's (standard) pitch gauge gave me. i was in a hurry doin' this. but neither Earls or Russel carried tha fitting i needed. not even tha reducer/adapter for any metric nut fitting (ie: 10mm; 12mm).

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just curious, what brakes are you using?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i've been on IT-R brakes. i picked up a 1" MC with tha booster. i didn't want to go on usin' my 13/16" MC & booster.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You don't run flexible lines directly off the master cylinder. That's a recipe for shitty pedal feel. As a general rule, for high pressure hydraulic lines such as in a brake system, you only use flexible lines where you actually need them to flex (such as to follow suspension movement). The rest should be regular hard lines.</TD></TR></TABLE>
there were different ratings for tha flex lines i noticed, that were sufficient enough to replace my hard lines with. tha one i had noticed durin' my search were meant to come off tha MC.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just save yourself time, money, and hassle - do it the right way the first time. Pick up a 12mm fitting, a tubing cutter, and a flaring tool. Cut the flared edge off the end of the line, pull off the 10mm fitting, slip on the new 12mm fitting, and re-flare the line. Voila - you're done in less than 10 minutes, and ready to bleed the system.</TD></TR></TABLE>
tha flare on tha factory flare was like a double-type. i didn't want to mess with it with tha flare tool my dad had. so, instead, i picked up a '00 GS-R BB & MC, where it takes two 10mm fittings rather than tha 10mm & 12mm like on tha 94-97 integ's w/ABS.

thanks guys. but i got it stoppin' on a dime. i just need to replace my 3040 (non-ABS) prop' valve for a 4040 one. i'd prefer one from an 94 Si w/ABS with tha 4040 prop's. my rears lock up first in semi-hard brakin'.

_taF


Modified by tallazzFilipino at 9:05 PM 11/19/2006


Modified by tallazzFilipino at 9:07 PM 11/19/2006

EgSalad

iTrader: (1)

Go to the junkyard and take a 4040 off of one of the (many) DA's there. Then swap your mounting brackets, and call it a day. You just need one of the special tamper proof star bits to take the PV's apart. I think its a T-5 or something.

WHAT TEH

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EgSalad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go to the junkyard and take a 4040 off of one of the (many) DA's there. Then swap your mounting brackets, and call it a day. You just need one of the special tamper proof star bits to take the PV's apart. I think its a T-5 or something.</TD></TR></TABLE>
does it matter which DA? does it have to be a GS-R or what? so, only tha mountin' brackets need to be change? how do tha nut-fittings screw up? do they have to be bent, at all?

thanks,
_taF

EgSalad

iTrader: (1)

I think all DA's have a 4040. I pulled one off of a GS & I think my buddies was off of an LS. Once you look at the PV's you'll understand how to take them apart & swap brackets. Its really straight forward since the Civic & DA PV are exactly the same.

The PV is in 2 parts, held on by 2 of those screws with the tamper proof heads on them. If you dont know what a tamper proof T head is, its like a normal star pattern, but theres a dot in the middle so normal T bits dont fit inside. You can buy the bits just about anywhere. I think I got my craftsman set for about $15.

So once your ready to take the PV apart. Put it in a vise because the 2 screws are a lil tough to get out. The PV will come apart & fluid will go everywhere. Insife is a seal, and a valve. Just dont loose anything. Take the bracket out and swap them.

Once all thats done, I used normal bolts so its ez to take apart again someday if need be.