Rok_Stok

It's about an exhaust leak, the one that won't go away no matter how many gaskets I throw at it. I've replaced..

main flange gasket (w/ Fel-Pro)
donut w/ OEM Honda one + spring bolts
...and the cat-back is all RS*R and those gaskets look great, so...

It went away for 1 day when I replaced the donut gasket, and even put new spring bolts on. So it's obviously comming from that area but now I'm only left with the option to have it welded or use this putty that's good for 2500° can't hurt right? Should I go this far on my baby?

Need opinions please.

Mike_C

pretty certain that's once of the advertised uses for it. go for it and report back.

Rok_Stok

10-4.

wonder squirrel

I'd skip the putty. Try to find and fix the problem.

Older cars would tend to blow out header gaskets when the timing was too far retarded. The air fuel mixture would continue burning down the exhaust adding alot of extra heat and blow the gaskets out eventually.

pdiggitydogg

Ive used exhaust patch putty on my old beater ed6 hatch. It does work, but its still only temporary - lasted maybe 6 months or so.

98bucket

just weld it.

Rok_Stok

I don't think I've ever been so frustrated in my life. A putty is one thing, this stuff, Thermo Steel, has the consistency of mixing water with sand, try and imagine working with that. The moment I applied it it would drop onto the floor, face, or whatever was beneath it. I believe it can harden and do what it advertises with much patience and only on a small area.

LESSON LEARNED: A $2.99 fix is usually too good to be true (in this case). Never buy Thermo Steel again, and just have the damn thing welded.

Actually what I plan on doing is buying an eBay header and welding the two pieces together to make a 1-piece header, then installing it.

My problem is that the collector on my stock exhaust manifold is a little too small when coupled with my Megan resonated test pipe. Solution: Get cheap header.

Expletive Thermo Steel.

90_EX_Civic

yeah i tried that stuff out too. waste of time and money. but in theory it should have worked. just that you would have had to of taken your exhaust completely off, sand/grind, and past it on like bondo. if the hole was to big you had to get some kind of screen or small piece of metal for the thermol crap to paste together with the exhaust. piece of crap. gl

thesmogman

Plus you all are forgetting why they have the springs and a donut gasket...
So it flex's at that point and doesn't end up cracking somewhere else.

You might need a couple of washers on the springs to tighten the joint together more. How compressed are the springs? Are they loose?

Or check to see if the mating surfaces are bent up or the springs/bolts are installed wrong.

Please fix it the right way and don't use the glue

obuhmyuh

i used the gold copper gasket maker from pep boys, a muffler specialist recommended this to me. i found best results when i used some Mr-Gasket material from amazon.com.

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gaske...r=8-3

Rok_Stok

I told myself when I got this car that I wouldn't go cheap and weld everything together like I did with my BB4, I like the idea of everything being flanged for when I swap my engine down the road and can still keep the exhaust parts I've already bought. I'm in the market for a 4-1 header right now, found one for $80 shipped. It's no Bisi or SMSP, but it's got them both beat on the price. Can't be that bad, I just need to remember and use anti-seize on the O² sensor this time around (messed up my first header like that) haha. Thanks guys.