mightyjoecivic

I'm not boosted or spraying, just wanting to know if theyre all I need for about 150-160 hp n/a safely.

mods: D15B7
k&n air filter
sri
skunk2 IM
aem fuel rail
aem fpr--stock psi
shaved head approx. .030
accell HO direct fit coil
bosch plat 4 plugs
bosch wires
D16A6 cam
Y7/Y8 cam gear
header
2.25in ex
zex 6.7Lb racing flywheel
xtd high pressure clutch cover
exedy stage 1 clutch disc

Tuning with crome and using the ostrich emulator. Thanks

forcefedferio

yeah they will be fine but looking over your mod list i gotta ask...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mightyjoecivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
mods: D15B7....why not a d16z6 or similar?
k&n air filter
sri
skunk2 IM
aem fuel rail......why?
aem fpr--stock psi.......why?
shaved head approx. .030
accell HO direct fit coil........why
bosch plat 4 plugs........Go NGK don't buy those pieces of ****
bosch wires......NGK
D16A6 cam
Y7/Y8 cam gear
header
2.25in ex
zex 6.7Lb racing flywheel
xtd high pressure clutch cover
exedy stage 1 clutch disc

Tuning with crome and using the ostrich emulator. Thanks
</TD></TR></TABLE>

broke91hatch

I was thinking the same stuff, you be luckey to have around 115 hp with that setup. For the stuff you have listed, you might as well stay with the stock coil. Those plugs are garbage, NGK's are the way to go, and bosch wires are overpriced. NGK or stock ones will do fine.

mightyjoecivic

I have seen the kinda power my motor can make, so I want to replicate it in my own way. I also have been meaning to replace the plugs with ngk, should I go with stock heat range or one range hotter? I bought the accel coil because the stocker was failing. And the fuel rail, well...I guess just the bling factor lol. The fuel pressure regulator because I am gonna see what difference from the stock 43.5psi to 45 makes during the tuning process.

forcefedferio

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mightyjoecivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have seen the kinda power my motor can make, so I want to replicate it in my own way. I also have been meaning to replace the plugs with ngk, should I go with stock heat range or one range hotter? I bought the accel coil because the stocker was failing. And the fuel rail, well...I guess just the bling factor lol. The fuel pressure regulator because I am gonna see what difference from the stock 43.5psi to 45 makes during the tuning process.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It just seems like you're going to be doing too much work for some mediocre at best results, props to you for being different if that's your cup of tea but it's just not an economical choice and i believe you will be dissapointed in the motor after the money you have spent on it.

You can probably go one step colder to a heat range 7 (stock are 6) just to be safe i suppose. As for the FPR you will notice no difference at all with 1.5 psi....if you're motor does not require any additional fuel then providing additional fuel will do more harm than good.

bigD

that looks like allot of money for 10hp gl

mightyjoecivic

I think I will be happy with the results. The motor has 184k miles, so I dont think I will spend more money on it to rebuild it. I will probably go with a D16A6 block with my head I have now in the future. For the tuning side of it, I took the "high cam" fuel/ignition/injector duty cells and applied them to the p06 map where the p06 map was lacking. I was actually surprised to see that the base p06 map has substantially more timing and fuel in most areas of the map than the base p28 map. Yeah, I'll admit that if I turbo the thing it will make a good jump in power, but thats not how the motor was designed to perform(hence the floating cylinders...no solid deck). But thanks for the input though, I will keep you guys posted on numbers soon.

D-SOHC 05

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mightyjoecivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not boosted or spraying, just wanting to know if theyre all I need for about 150-160 hp n/a safely.

mods: D15B7
k&n air filter
sri
skunk2 IM
aem fuel rail
aem fpr--stock psi
shaved head approx. .030
accell HO direct fit coil
bosch plat 4 plugs
bosch wires
D16A6 cam
Y7/Y8 cam gear
header
2.25in ex
zex 6.7Lb racing flywheel
xtd high pressure clutch cover
exedy stage 1 clutch disc

Tuning with crome and using the ostrich emulator. Thanks
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im in the works of a build similar to this, If you want to stay N/A and make some decent power you'll need to rebuild the head and use a more agressive cam. A port and polish will also do you some good. The fact will always remain that N/A D's are very costly but if you have a passion for them like some of us do than the money is always well spent. Take a moment and search for the SMS D16 N/A build. Lots of good info in those threads. GL and take care.

Ryan

P.S. CR = More D series power.

mightyjoecivic

thanks, I like the underdog odds...and the D-series motors.