200km/35 liter drop in mileage
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200km/35 liter drop in mileage
I know this is a really vague question but in a span of a week the mileage on my car drop from getting 500-550KMs per 35 liters to about 350km/35 liters (23mpg).
This is on a 1996 bone stock CX, manual.
Since it started I've changed the plugs, distributor cap & rotor, fuel filter, oil & oil filter, air filter, new exhaust manifold with built in cat and manifold gasket, new front rotors and pads, i had the back brakes checked and everythign checked out fine and had the valves adjusted.
After all this i'm still getting pretty bad mileage compared to what i was.
Obviosuly i'm trying everything any suggestions?
This is on a 1996 bone stock CX, manual.
Since it started I've changed the plugs, distributor cap & rotor, fuel filter, oil & oil filter, air filter, new exhaust manifold with built in cat and manifold gasket, new front rotors and pads, i had the back brakes checked and everythign checked out fine and had the valves adjusted.
After all this i'm still getting pretty bad mileage compared to what i was.
Obviosuly i'm trying everything any suggestions?
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sry to jack a thread, but im in the same boat only worse, i have a 98 dx man. and i only get 300-350 per tank, when it wants to. and this is about every 5 days when i fill up im using 89 octane.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thehatchninja »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a tune up...injector/fuel system cleaner, fuel filter, air filter, valves adjusted, oil change etc
and Seafoam is a good idea too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I haven't gotten a fuel injector flush done from honda because i figured its probably a waste of money. I did add a bottle of fuel injector cleaner each time i filled up for about three tanks. its made no difference either, but i've done all the other stuff you suggested.
Anyone else?
and Seafoam is a good idea too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I haven't gotten a fuel injector flush done from honda because i figured its probably a waste of money. I did add a bottle of fuel injector cleaner each time i filled up for about three tanks. its made no difference either, but i've done all the other stuff you suggested.
Anyone else?
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Re: (schardbody)
Sorry forgot to include, I've got an OBD-II reader and there are 0 codes showing. A few months ago i replaced the secondary o2 sensor when i got a code for that, reset the ecu and teh code was gone.
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Re: 200km/35 liter drop in mileage (luciffer)
Well, considering your on the ball with maintenance the only suggestion i can make would be driving style. Here's some fuel stat's I noticed with my car (99 dx hatch with the stock 1.6L - 180,000km):
-Between 100 and 120km/h your car will burn as much as 25% more fuel.
-Check those tire pressures because that makes a difference if your low on air.
-Winter driving / cold temps will burn more fuel.
If I driving at about 130-140km/h hwy in the winter with aggressive shifting my car will return about 25mpg. Reduce your highway speed to 120km/h and with short shifting 2800rpm and I have returned a best of 43mpg. Use the 25% rule with summer driving and I have acheived as high as 52mpg.
Check this article out and tell me if anyone really needs hybrids!
http://www.canadiandriver.com/...e.htm
John S.
Modified by jspeed77 at 11:50 AM 2/16/2006
-Between 100 and 120km/h your car will burn as much as 25% more fuel.
-Check those tire pressures because that makes a difference if your low on air.
-Winter driving / cold temps will burn more fuel.
If I driving at about 130-140km/h hwy in the winter with aggressive shifting my car will return about 25mpg. Reduce your highway speed to 120km/h and with short shifting 2800rpm and I have returned a best of 43mpg. Use the 25% rule with summer driving and I have acheived as high as 52mpg.
Check this article out and tell me if anyone really needs hybrids!
http://www.canadiandriver.com/...e.htm
John S.
Modified by jspeed77 at 11:50 AM 2/16/2006
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Re: 200km/35 liter drop in mileage (jspeed77)
That's good info jspeed77, but unfortunately i'm rarely doing any highway driving anymore just in town, and the little highway driving i do is at 110km/h...it is a bone stock cx :-)
I don't drive the card that hard and haven't noticed a drop in power since the mileage went down either. after replacing a few things with nothing changing I figured there must be a whole in the gas tank, but there's never any fuel under the car and no gas smell either.
I'm 100% lost on this one.
I don't drive the card that hard and haven't noticed a drop in power since the mileage went down either. after replacing a few things with nothing changing I figured there must be a whole in the gas tank, but there's never any fuel under the car and no gas smell either.
I'm 100% lost on this one.
#10
Re: (thehatchninja)
Tires pressure will make a big difference. I got 165 miles to half my tank (which is more like 2/3 empty) today. Usually, summertime i get 400 miles for a whole tank, or like 300 for where it was at today. Thats half!! Pisses me off but what can i do....i already drive like my grand ma'. She proly drives faster than me....but anyways. Winter/tire pressure kills gas mileage.
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Re: (deadend9009)
So what do you guys run for tire pressure in the winter?
The car is bone stock so its on 13" steel rims and new winter tires since i live in Canada on the east coast.
I have been keeping the pressue at 30-32 psi.
hatchninja - i'll check around the injectors tonight, it is 10 years old so the o-rings could be bad.
Thanks guys.
The car is bone stock so its on 13" steel rims and new winter tires since i live in Canada on the east coast.
I have been keeping the pressue at 30-32 psi.
hatchninja - i'll check around the injectors tonight, it is 10 years old so the o-rings could be bad.
Thanks guys.
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Re: (thehatchninja)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thehatchninja »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just to make sure, you don't have a CEL do you?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by luciffer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry forgot to include, I've got an OBD-II reader and there are 0 codes showing. A few months ago i replaced the secondary o2 sensor when i got a code for that, reset the ecu and teh code was gone.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">primary o2 sensor. just because there isnt a code for it dosent mean its reading correctly. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd hate to spend $130 just to find out its not the problem, is there anyway to test this for certain?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1337 Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My gas mileage went down when it got cold.</TD></TR></TABLE>
mileage goes down when it gets colder, people run their cars longer to warm up and for other reasons, but not 200km over 35 liters.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by luciffer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry forgot to include, I've got an OBD-II reader and there are 0 codes showing. A few months ago i replaced the secondary o2 sensor when i got a code for that, reset the ecu and teh code was gone.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">primary o2 sensor. just because there isnt a code for it dosent mean its reading correctly. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd hate to spend $130 just to find out its not the problem, is there anyway to test this for certain?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1337 Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My gas mileage went down when it got cold.</TD></TR></TABLE>
mileage goes down when it gets colder, people run their cars longer to warm up and for other reasons, but not 200km over 35 liters.
#16
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Re: (luciffer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by luciffer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd hate to spend $130 just to find out its not the problem, is there anyway to test this for certain?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you need a good oscilliscope to watch the voltages of the o2 sensor. possibly a 3-5 gas to verify how the engine is running vs. what the o2 sensor is seeing.
the tools to diagnose it will cost more than the sensor. so you can ask a shop to do it or just blindly replace parts.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you need a good oscilliscope to watch the voltages of the o2 sensor. possibly a 3-5 gas to verify how the engine is running vs. what the o2 sensor is seeing.
the tools to diagnose it will cost more than the sensor. so you can ask a shop to do it or just blindly replace parts.
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