packman5280

I was driving to work this morning, shifted to 3rd, and as I hit the gas, the car sputters and won't go. coasted off the road, and now it won't start at all. timing belt is good, I know what it sounds like when it's broken and this isn't it. No codes other than o2 sensor (code 41) which has been there for months (have the new sensor, but haven't put it in yet). My thoughts are distributor or fuel pump, possibly fuel filter. I did run it all the way out of gas last week, it has about a half tank in it now.

Any other ideas about things to check? I plan to pull a plug wire and see if I have spark, as well as listen for the fuel pump, but do to the guru's here have any other ideas on things to check?

Thanks in advance.

ek-g6

Check main relay it may have went bad on you. Check for spark, fuel, and compression.

Former User

Also consider that the timing belt may have slipped a few teeth rather than snapped.

packman5280

main relay is under the hood by the battery correct? if that went bad, would i still get dash lights, etc? because everything else works, it just won't start.

i really hope the belt didn't slip, but i suppose it is possible. I guess if i have fuel and fire, that will be the next thing to check.

thanks.

Former User

If you remove the glove box, the main relay is on the immediate right. If you hear the fuel pump prime, then the main relay is fine, so check for spark.

packman5280

ok, thanks for the main relay location, i will check that tomorrow when i get back to where the car is. I checked for spark, and damn, that hurts just a little bit! but yes, it has spark, so I'm thinking the dizzy is fine.

packman5280

I'm working on it right now, and everything seems fine. Changed the fuel filter, checked the main relay via the instructions in the fsm and it passed, when I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump through the fill hole, as well as hear and feel fuel going through the filter. I checked the timing belt and it is dead on, right where it should be. So iam stumped, everything seems to check out. Any more ideas of things to check?

Thanks again.

tw1tch

Happened to me. The rotor broke off inside the distributor.

packman5280

I've got spark though. If the rotor had broken I wouldn't be getting spark.

Former User

Is spark at the plug bright white-bluish or weak orange? Also recheck for CEL codes.

Do you measure battery voltage at each fuel injector connector with the key in ON(II)?

packman5280

have not measured the voltage at the injectors. couldn't tell about the spark at the plug wire, i just held a screw driver in there and had a buddy crank it. it looked somewhat orange, but also blue too, although i was outside in the day light so it was hard to see. i'll check voltage at the injectors and recheck codes next time i am near the car, it's about 20 miles from me at the moment.

thanks again.

Former User

Click here for method to check for spark at the plug. If spark is weak orange, then the coil is likely bad.

Stock90Civic

Same thing happened to me. Ended up being the PCM (?) that would send the spark signal out to the plugs. Check your voltage there. If it's low it can cause a weak spark.

packman5280

thanks all, here's what i got from testing. using a spark plug i checked spark according to the directions Ronj posted, i have weak orange spark. checked for voltage at the injectors, with the key ON, no voltage. checked the battery for good measure, it is showing only 9v.

now what? alternator? coil? something else entirely? if it is the coil, can that be replaced separately from the distributor, or is it one unit? i need to be able to fix this myself, if at all possible, because i don't have enough money to have it towed and fixed at a shop till next month. really appreciate the help.

Former User

Remove the battery and have it tested and charged. Remove the coil and have it tested (or resistance test it yourself). Many auto parts stores offer these tests/charging as a free service.

Reinstall the charged battery and good coil and then repeat your spark and voltage tests. Also check whether the fuel pump primes.

packman5280

the fuel pump does prime, for 2 seconds after the key is turned to ON.

how hard is it to get the coil out? didn't bring many tools with me today, as I am riding my motorcycle right now. i have a battery charger at home i could leave the battery on it overnight, just need to figure out how to get the battery home. would jump starting (or trying) tell me anything?

thanks again.

Former User

How did you measure voltage at the injector clips? Check whether fuse 44 under the hood or fuse 13 under the dash is blown.

You need to remove the cap and rotor to access the coil:

packman5280

i unhooked the harness from the injector and stuck the probes from the volt meter in there. fuse 13 is good, checked that right away. i'll check fuse 44 under the hood in a bit and get back to this thread.

damn i wish i could see pics at work, damn web filter.

Former User

By this method, you would measure 0V at the fuel injector clip, even if battery voltage were present. Here's how to test for voltage:

1) Unclip the connector.

2) Turn the key to ON(II).

3) Touch the red probe of the voltmeter to the pin for the YEL/BLK wire in the injector connector, and then touch the black probe to a clean metal-exposed area of the thermostat housing. You should read battery voltage.

packman5280

sweet, thanks bro, really appreciate the help.

Former User

Then why are you always giving me the flaming finger?

wshuculd

Change your igniter

packman5280

LOL, that's for everyone.

ok i just checked the injectors, they read 9v, same as the batt (guess i need a new volt meter too, it only shows 11v on a running vehicle).

pulled the dist cap, and found a few pieces of plastic and a phillips head screw floating around in there, pretty sure that isn't supposed to be that way. also, the rotor turns freely. so i think that screw is the set screw for the rotor, and the plastic pieces came off the rotor as well. I took a couple pics, i'll post them when i get home, but it looks at this point like i need a new dizzy. would the rotor turn without the set screw? i thought it was just to hold it on, and the rotor is keyed to the cap.

packman5280

here are the pics of what i found inside the distributor cap.

you can see the ridges on the top of the rotor that broke off, that's where some of the parts came from.
http://home.comcast.net/~packman5280/rotor.jpg

and here is all the plastic and the screw that were inside
http://home.comcast.net/~packman5280/distparts.jpg

let me know what you think. new rotor? new distributor? coil still?

Former User

The fuel injector voltage seems fine, so I think the distributor is the source of your problems. My recommendation for the distributor would be that you replace it. You are now very close to having a running engine again.