hondaclueless

ok so I bought the car off of cl 2000 Honda civic lx 4 door d16y7 and didn't notice it would overheat the next day in the morning I was driving and it would over heat so I replaced timing belt water pump and tensioner. and was running perfect(no more overheat). then the next day I got madd for something stupid and floored the gas and at high rpms then car bogged out timing slipped and didn't start back up had it toed and put timing back and still wont start it is getting gas and I tested spark it is getting spark one was powerful and the rest were weak I replaced cap and rotor and it is getting spark but still no start valves are fine no weired noises when cranking. you can hear one cylinder combust only. had a buddy tell me it could be ecu. I don't know he doesn't know he was checking fuses with light tester on indash half of the fuses didn't light up and other half did. no fuses are blown lead me to believe ecu. I really need feedback if this is my prob or not. car will crank but not start getting gas and spark. I don't know what to think or do. I really need help! I don't want to pay 350$ for shop to do it trying to do it myself I just don't know why it wont start buddy told me I might have fried the computer! feedback on a solution to my problem is greatly appreciated im stuck between a rock and a stump! please email me

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

how about breaking that mess up into individual questions.

figure out what fuses arent working and lets go from there.

hondaclueless

I did the timing belt waterpump tensioner replacement. after driving it for 2 days I put the gas petal to the floor while driving.
once it got to high rpms it shut off! would not turn back on timing belt slipped!
had the car toed to my house. put it back on timing(tdc marks) and wont start!
checked gas and spark only one cylinder gave great spark 3 ok...
replaced rotor and cap and still nothing.
I checked fuses on the inside with light tester half of them lit up and half did not with key off and on. also when I turn the key the d4 lights up???

I though it was dizzy.? but still nothing. buddy thinks the reason is the ecu got fried al well as the cap and rotor. while I put the gas petal to the floor

the motor is a d16y7 auto 2000 Honda civic. I don't know what else to trouble shoot and if the ecu is the problem. trying to figure out if any one know what happen and what do I need to replace
after belt slipped no valves were damaged because when I try to crank it spins with no load unusual noises. just keeps cranking.
noticed one cylinder combusts. I don't know why the other 3 are not.

the reason I replaced the timing belt and water pump with tensioner is because it was overheating. when I replaced it did not continue over heating.

trying to get my car on the road my mechanic believes I fried ecu. I want to make sure this is what I need because I bought this car for my wife and already had to put 300$ into it after paying 1600$ just for the car. and the car isn't running! trying to get help on figuring out why it cranks but not fires. its getting gas and spark. I have not checked compression. but I got combustion from one cylinder.....

hondaclueless

also when I connected the obd2 scanner no codes blinking yellow light with the code ev, c, o, and oh? I don't know how to fix?

crxsi1

Does it want to start? Like you get some pops here and there? Over heat= blown head gasket... or maybe you just timed it wrong the second time... check your compression

hondaclueless

it is timed right I retimed it twice and still nothing im thin king it might have blown but. after I did the waterpump timing and tensioner it was running perfect no overheating then the next day I floored the gas and the car turned off wont start. it is getting gas and spark only one cylinder combusts the other 3 brothers nothing!?

hondaclueless

IT IS GETTING GAS AND SPARK AND IS TIMED. UNDER THE DASH WHERE THE FUSES THAT ARE NOT RESPONDING TO THE LIGHT TESTER 15 OUT OF 33 ARE NOT RESPONDING OTHERS ARE. HERES WHAT HAPPEN I PUT THE GAS PEDAL TO THE FLOOR IDK WHAT RPMS IT WAS AT THERE IS NO CLUSTER IT WENT HIGH AND DIED. THE TIMING BELT SLIPPED ON TENSIONER. FROM FORCE FLEXING. EITHER I FRIED THE COMPUTER OR WIRING HARNESS IS WHAT MY MECHANIC BELIEVES BECAUSE OF THE INDASH FUSES NOT L,IGHTING UP. YOU PULL THEM OUT AND THEY ARE GOOD FUSES. TRYING TO GET COMFIRMATION THAT ITI S THE COMPUTER BECAUSE THE CAR WILL CRANK WILL NOT START!!!

URXQSD

Plug someone else ECU in and see if it starts, if it works you laughing if not you back where you started,

crxsi1

It is weird that half are out... it maybe could be the ecu but you're getting fuel and spark so that tells me its working... im thinking when your belt slipped it obviously through the timing off... but it didnt snap so im thinking at high rpm's when that happened the valves slapped and now there not opening correctly. Bent valves... this exact same thing happened to my buddies spec v except it was timed wrong and caused them to smack... it cranked, had spark and fuel but no start... got a new rebuilt head and made sure it was timed correctly and it fired right up... do you get a slight pop every once in awhile?

crxsi1

And you cant tell if the valves got bent... the spec v I delt with cranked smoothly also after the valves bent... imo its either the head or the timing is just a notch off... if you have spark and fuel then it should fire up if its getting into the cylinder properly/on time... if you get a pop here and there its cause its not firing when the fuel comes. Something isnt allowing it to mix properly... valves not opening up all the way or just a slight bit sounds like the problem... first get a ecu that you know works and try that first... then to the head...

hondaclueless

I don't want to waste money. when I connected obd2 scanner no codes popped up only blinking one came up ev , c , o , and oh , no sure why. I want to compression test first to see if head gasket blew. timing was all correctly aligned with marks. I don't want to tare apart the head if its no that. but im still stumped on why its not firing because after I did the timing water pump and tensioner she was running perfect until I punched the gas pedal and it came to a stop and didn't start back up. so its either ecu or wiring compression or heads gasket or valves are bent. there are still a lot of variables in play and im tring to pin point the right cause

crxsi1

Another question is why did it slip in the first place... it shouldnt have... wrong belt maybe... so you retimed it right? When you crank it does it slip again... I mean a belt slipping and causing the ecu to blow I've never seen??? Anyone else have that happen...??? Im not bashing here but lets start from the main problem... belt slip and car shut off at high rpms would most likely cause bent valves... u can do the compression test to check the head gasket but if the valves arent opening that test wont tell you if the head is working properly... you my friend probably have bent valves...

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

hondaclueless

from the slipping cause cam to stop spinning and the rotor and cap is still generating electricity with no where to go. and instead of blowing up the fuses and went straight to the brain my mechanic wants to know why the indash fuses are no lighting up and why it is not lighting up? mechanic says it should be internal electricity damage. causing the rotor to spinning at high rpms can it cause a power surge.? by stopping on the gas pedal and causeing it at high rpms causing the belt to jump off from spinning at high rpms and coming to a complete stop cause internal wiring damage is that possible

crxsi1

I dont know everything bout cars but cars is what I went to school for and anytime I've heard of this happening or seen it for myself instant valves bent...

crxsi1

No no no... the electricity will still travel to the spark plug and try and ignite the fuel...

crxsi1

Nothing will stop rotating in there... if the belt is on right and is the right length it should never slip... that belt should not have slipped. It slipped in high rpms cause it either is the wrong one or the tensioner is bad and that hard of a load caused it to jump...

crxsi1

The fuses that dont light up are probably open cause they dont get a signal till the car is running... can you tell us what fuses dont light up...?

hondaclueless

I went to auto zone and order a brand new timing water pump and tensioner my mechanic is trying to figure out if it is the right motor for that car a 2000 Honda civic lx 4 door having a d16y7 and he thinks the head is different from the block too. but idk how to be sure. because car ranges from 97-00.

crxsi1

Like I believe the brake fuse, horn, ect... wont light up if you're not pushing the brakes or horn to complete the circuit. A power surgre from rotor spinning at high rpms? Um ya I dont think so... the cam is what spins the rotor... so how ever fast the cam is spinning the rotor is too... dude im telling you YOU BENT YOUR VALVES

hondaclueless

do you know what is the original motor that is suppost to be in a 2000 Honda civic lx 4 door?

crxsi1

Do you have the old belt still? Count the teeth... same for pump

hondaclueless

so if I tear the head apart how will I tell if it is bent or not. the head is skrew. is the cam good?

hondaclueless

i believe i should still have it. but i aint at my pops house to count i will go over there tomorrow or have a buddy find out for me.

crxsi1

D16y7... im working on one tonight... doin a clutch...