ForMyWoman

iTrader: (2)

I am not mechanic.
I am not physically capable of doing most work on my vehicle.
Now that is stated lets move on.
My wife and I did buy a 2000 Honda Civic DX for her daily driver.
Ultimate plan of course was that it would eventually end up in my hands after we got her an upgrade.

It is now in my hands and that d16y7 is not cutting it. After lurking around here for the last year I finally decided to start a thread for my build. This is not meant to be a how to, to brag or anything other than criticism. I will post all the parts I will be or have purchased and everyone feel free to chime in with what I forgot to add.

Alright!
First question you are to ask yourself when doing a build is what are your expectations and your budget.
I want to have 120-130WHP by next year with the potential of (This is now undecided, previously thought 300 might be possible but been educated by the HT community that I may of set my sights high)WHP in the distant future.
I have $2000 to spend just for the first part.
The car MUST be automatic and the car MUST have A/C.
This will be a three step process that will be spread out over 3-5 years.
First Step; Get the motor in the car and funcitioning Suspension
Second Step; VTEC
Third Step; Turbo

With the 300WHP expectation a b-series swap seemed necessary. And the motor I have chosen is the B20. Now keep these things in mind.
This will will be a slow progressive build, one step tackled at a time.
For medical related reasons my vehicles are automatic.

Here are the pages I have been using as reference.
- How to: Install ASR subframe brace and ITR sway bar on DC2 Integra - by GagnarTheUnruly
- Progress Coil-over - by Progress Technology
- [DIY] 92-95 JDM/EDM Honda Civic OEM Front Tower Strut Bar Install - by deschlong
- Rebuild Kits - by perfect engine
- 97 EJ LsVtec with GsR automatic trans - TunersTown
- JDM B16 automatic in 2000 Civic - Puertoricanghst
- My B20 into EK parts list - by DevinW
- B20 Swap: Detailed How To Guide - by Chiddie
- B18 swap into 6th Gen - Lawrence Hwang
- How to build a "reliable" lsvtec/b20vtec - by bambam
- B20 w/LS auto - by civicjason
- Mounts Mentioned - by crazykid9137
- B18B and B20 auto transmission swap help - by RedHeadMetalHead
- B20 swap help? - by CampsDb7
- New Info for B-series swaps into '96 - '00 Civics - 94EG8

10/27/2015 : The first part of this build is to get a stock B20B/Z motor in, this means NonVTEC and automatic.
12/24/2015 : The NEW first part of this build will be to work on the suspension and to prove doctors wrong that I will drive a manual vehicle.

Parts List (so far)
- Engine - B20B/Z OBD2B (it will come with alternator)
- ECU - for a 1997 Integra LS
- Starter - for a 1997 Integra LS
- Intake - for a 1997 Integra LS
- Accelerator Cable - for a 1997 Integra LS
- Canister Purge Valve - for a 1997 Integra LS
- IAT Sensor - Universal Part(?)
- Mount(s) - 99-00 Si Rear mount (I need a part number for this one)
- Mount(s) - 99-00 Si Timing Belt mount (maybe, I hear the CRV will also work... conflicting information)
- Mount(s) - CRV, non specific year, Front Lower Driver Side Torque mount
- Mount(s) - 96-00 CRV Driver side Front Lower Engine mount
- Mount(s) - 97 Integra Front Transmission Mount
- Automatic Transmission Manual Transmission - B-series, not sure what I'll be aiming for yet
- CV Axles - for a 1997 Acura Integra (This seems very common on all B20 builds, alot say the 94-00 axles will work. (are they straight bolt on or modifications being done?)
- Exhaust Manifold - I get information stating that any B series manifold will work. True?
- Intake Manifold - from a 1997 integra (this will include fuel rail and injectors)

After this is done I will look into going V-TEC, either with the B20 head or with a B16. This will be researched later on, so if that gets brought up you are moving ahead of me and not helping. Also, do not say 'turbo it' I know this is an option and it will come up in the distant future. But for right now talking about those two subjects don't necessarily help. UNLESS a specific part or action I take prevents or hinders the option of V-TEC and/or Turbo in the future.

Thank you for your time and more importantly your input.

Additional Modifications
These will now come into play before the swap

Suspension
- ASR subframe and sway bar - I was able to locate one used and waiting on response from seller
- Rear Disc Brake Conversion - many tutorials about this but one particular on YouTube seemed the best, will try to locate it later
- 94-01 Integra Front Strut - will wait a few more months for one to pop up in the local junk yard before ordering on off the internets
- Function7 Rear LCA's - Willing to hear suggestions for other brands
- Progress Coil-over - Currently thinking 350/450
- 15'' Drag DR-23's with a 205/50's but still undecided on the tire
- Five Lug Conversion? - Putting this here to remind me of it as a possibility in a few years

*Note Any word(s) that are between the BBcode of and means I attempted to strike it out. Think it is important that the original post remains the same but with edits as the days, months, years progress. Mainly because NotARaCist's first response wouldn't make sense if I deleted all the stuff about wanting it to be an automatic swap.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Oh boy, another "I want to automatic B swap" thread.

Caoboy

This is a waste of time.

300hp doesn't do well with the automatic transmissions.

Boost doesn't do well with auto transmissions.

Just stop while you're ahead.

If you REALLY want to do the b20 swap, that is feasible, probably. The other stuff, not as easy, not on that budget.

ForMyWoman

iTrader: (2)

I once had the nickname DeadLeg for a reason people. I WISH that I could do manual, but I simply can not. And that reason should not prevent me from having the joy most of you have or once had... that joy being turbo.

And on each of those threads I have yet to see you provide some helpful information. Just negative words about how its a waste of time.
I kindly and respectfully ask that you stay away from that approach on my thread or just ignore my thread all together.

The $2000 budget is just for the first part of the plan. There is more money to play with for the other portions.

Caoboy

It's still completely pointless to do all this work and have it be automatic.

You might as well sell your car, buy an automatic integra, and just drive that around. It's literally the SAME THING you want to achieve, already done.

AND IT'D PROBABLY ONLY COST ABOUT $2,000.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Budget and parts lists are all good and dandy. Care to explain how you plan on getting an automatic transmission to work in your car? Because that's the hurdle that literally no one has managed to pull off in the 6G chassis.

ForMyWoman

iTrader: (2)

Which is why the thread is necessary. Because I have no clue how to pull it off, all the other B20 swap information I have read is all about manual transmissions.

Caoboy

It's just wiring

ForMyWoman

iTrader: (2)

This true? Anyone else verify??

I do not like the integra body style at all.
There is a certain nostalgia factor that plays into the car that I currently own. It might be pointless for you, but not at all for me specifically.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Did you ever stop and think that maybe there's a reason for that? It's one of those things that's in the realm of "if you have to ask, you can't do it." There are some things you have to sacrifice, if you want other things. Right now, you want performance, and in the realm of older Hondas, that means you have to sacrifice that wide brake pedal. It's three pedal or nothing.

Yes, and landing a colony on Mars is just physics

Caoboy

No, it's a joke.

If you say so.

Your best bet is to buy a good running automatic Integra and take it apart and put the engine/trans/wiring into the car. You are on your own to figure out how to rewire things like the shifter, transmission modules, etc.

ForMyWoman

iTrader: (2)

I am not looking for performance right now, that is a whole other issue I will approach later on. This step is just getting the motor in, functional and reliable. Lets just get the B20 in the car and working... we'll tackle the rest later.

Caoboy

I'm curious how you're going to get the passenger side transmission mount/bracket to the chassis. I believe the chassis mount area is different.

IIRC I've seen a conversion mount for the auto chassis->manual transmission. but not auto to b series auto.

ForMyWoman

iTrader: (2)

In this thread it is brought up and someone states that the CRV mount would work. But this is only one persons input and no idea who they are or how reliable their information be.... or if I am even interpreting it correctly.

tony_2018

Use a CRv passenger mount, or convert it to work with the civic auto mount. either one.

OP.

Wiring is not an issue.
Building the engine to withstand 300hp is not an issue
Automatic transmissioin to withstand 300hp is a 50/50 chance.

Do a little bit more digging and you'll find a guy with a pink engine bay (his wifes car) and you'll see the mounts he used and what he did to get the transmission to fit.

tony_2018

What part of Tx?

ForMyWoman

iTrader: (2)

I will admit there has been no research done on my part as to what a B-series automatic transmission can handle. I'll need to look into that, the 300WHP was not a necessity; like I have said before not aiming so much for performance be reliability. Little bit of speed is nice, so I'll see what the Honda autos can handle and keep it well enough below that number. Thank you for bringing that to my attention.

tony_2018

Than you won't need 300hp, the b20 is sufficient in getting you around. I would suggest you find a complete swap from a CRV: engine, tranny, all mounts, ecu and engine harness. Passenger side frame rail will need to be "massaged" a little to fit the transmission, that is what I read. Everything else should bolt up fine.

ForMyWoman

iTrader: (2)

This could be true but these two things are still vague, motor mounts and transmission. I only get one day and two nights worth of my friends time to get this done. Need to make sure I have all the parts and be prepared for any issues that may arise.

Here to learn from others mistakes when it comes to this swap.

White_EG1

How about a b16a with auto tranny from the 92-93 integra xsi? This transmission may be stronger than the auto LS. Then you can hit vtec and the auto tranny will shift before powerband next gear!

Question tho, are you physically disabled or do you just like wasting money?

ForMyWoman

iTrader: (2)

B16A motor is a little harder to get in my area and the ones that are available are well over $1000. Were as the B20 is everywhere and anywhere from 400 from a salvage yard to 650 from a JDM reseller. And if I am only shooting for 120-130WHP than it would be a waste of money to go B16A auto.

I am physically disabled.

tony_2018

Some parts of texas you're required to pass emissions, not sure where you're from but keep that in mind. If you can't see what the similarities are between the civic and the crv, can't help you any further than that.

doctorake

Good luck, every once in a while one of these threads pops up(B series auto into a 6th gen) and I have never seen one finished.

I think the part about buying an Integra instead is very solid advice.

Scott Little

parts list looks good


I don't think it will be any easier with a B16. As far as bolting everything up and getting it running b16=b18=b20. Except for the LS parts needed on the b20 of course. b20s are cheap to pick up.


I just did the B20 conversion to my wife's EJ1, well I guess its my EJ1 now tho. lol
I'm not really understanding where the problem is with the Automatic transmission. Lets just forget the whole 300hp for now. That's a whole different project with a whole different set of hurdles. Is the car automatic now? You "should" be able to reuse most of the wiring and such but worst case you may have to run additional wires. Should be easier than removing the automatic and adding all of the clutch lines and swapping the pedals like I had to do.


From my research the B20Z should have almost the same Intake Manifold as the LS. I believe that's the reason for the higher performance numbers.


Double check and triple check that the mounts are correct. The front transmission and engine mounts were a problem for me and I ended up wasting $$ on mounts that did not work.


You may want to do some research on the power steering pump as well, I ended up using the PS pump from the LS as well as the brackets. My pressure line fit well so I didn't need to replace it.


I honestly think the expectations of completing it in a few days is going to be difficult. Its not so much the labor/experience/skill it more of finding out something that you didn't know you didn't know. You will most likely get stuck at somewhere and need parts. From experience stick with the LS parts, the GSR parts do not always line up.


Just as a note, with any stock automatic transmission you will be losing performance. You may want to look into custom options, i'm sure there has to be something out there. With the Manual transmissions the difference between the B16 and LS transmissions is night and day, you can find all of the gear ratio's posted online and maybe there is decent auto out there.


Ohh as for the Axels, the driver side is dependent on the Intermediate shaft, make sure you have a driver side axel that works with whatever intermediate shaft you are using.

Scott Little

Another thing you will need to worry about is the exhaust matching up, the flanges between downpipe and cat or whatever your car has down there may not match up. I ended up ordering a new exhaust and test pipe and it still didn't match up.


You may want to find just find a Cheap CRV for a parts car. I would anticipate at least $1000 for the swap costs. if you are unlucky and end up needing additional help it may balloon to over $2500 quickly. I wish I would have just slapped a JDM D16 into my wifes car, would have been cheaper in the long run and a whole lot less work. lol. I think I would have been happier picking up a cheap integra myself. But honestly... The car is a lot of fun now.