bmaninva

Here's the rundown. Car seemed to have a miss. Codes pulled.#4 misfire. New plugs,wires,cap and rotor button.Still misses.Same code.Thought I might have gotten a bad part,so 1by1 I put all the old parts back on. Still misses.Pulled the #4 plug wire while running and the car quit and hasn't restarted since.New coil and ICM and checked the black/yellow and yellow/green wires.All good there but still no start.Am I missing something? Could the CKP sensor be bad in the distributor causing this issue?Pretty close to wits end with it. Thanks in advance.

carlos8

Not pull the plugs while engine is ON this can FRY coils!!!

The CEL come on for two seconds and turn off when put the switch to ONII?

For check the distributor components:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/95-civic-limp-mode-tps-ckp-cel-codes-please-help-3040811/

Deetz

is the ignitor oem? Aftermarket ones are common for problems

bmaninva

Carlos8 and Deetz,thanks.Ignitor is aftermarket but when I pulled the plug wire while running,it was the aftermarket one. Put the old one back in and still have no spark.Ohmed out the CKP last night and it should be between 350 and 700 and it only made it to 335.Looks like I'm buying a distributor today.Both ignitors[coils] ohm the same. Thanks again.

doctorake

You need to type better sentences out, it is really tough to read your posts and make sense of them. My understanding is you have a 2000 SI with an aftermarket distributor? If so get an OEM one and see if the problem persists.

Also when you post please list the following: Year, Model, Engine, ECU, Mods, CELs.

Former User

^This

Also, currently:

1. Does the fuel pump prime?
2. Is there bright white spark at all 4 plugs?
3. Are the plug wires installed in the correct firing order?
4. Do the injectors spray fuel?
5. Have you compression tested the cylinders?

bmaninva

Sorry All,2000 Civic SI DOHC Vtec,MT.The car ran with new plugs,wires,cap and rotor button but still missed.Pulled the #4 wire off the plug while the car was running and it quit running and hasn't restarted again.Replaced the ICM and coil in the distributor and still no start. Have no spark. Ohmed out CKP and it only has 335 and should be between 350 and 700.Wires from the ECM to the distributor are good. I feel I need a distributor. Any other suggestions?

Former User

Answer all questions in post #6. Also check whether dash fuse 9 is blown.

bmaninva

I hear the fuel pump prime.There is no spark on any of the plugs.The wires are installed correctly.Haven't pulled any injectors yet since I have no spark.Haven't done a compression check yet. Just wanna make it run again.Fuses have been checked and rechecked.Thanks,I'l do some more testing.

Former User

Did you voltage test fuse 9? Click the Fuses link in my signature.

Have you checked whether battery voltage reaches the Blk/Yel wire attached to the coil and ICM with the key in ON(II)?

Did you check whether the timing belt snapped or stripped?

tlarimer

iTrader: (3)

Also a bad ground on the T-stat housing can cause no spark

tony_2018

i would go back and check the igniter.

bmaninva

Original coil and one I bought neither ohm good on the secondary winding.Will a bad CKP in the distributor cause a no spark issue?I'm gonna get another coil from Honda but if I need a distributor,I would rather just buy a whole new assembly.

tony_2018

Are you sure its within spec? Is your fuel pump priming? Have you checked your main relay?

bmaninva

Primary winding is .6.Secondary winding is 10.Both readings are after subtracting .2 for the meter itself.I have done the diagnostics on the main relay and all tests are good.

Former User

No need to subtract the internal meter resistance from the secondary winding measurement because the reading is in the kilo-Ohm range. Subtraction is needed for the primary winding measurement because the reading is in the Ohm range. What was the actual secondary winding measurement?

bmaninva

10.2.I just did the coil/ICM test from the Integra site and according to those tests,the coil is bad and so is the ICM.If you hook up a test light to the negative side of the coil and crank,it doesn't flash. If you check continuity on the coil connections to ground,they both show a reading. That mean I have a bad coil and ICM,even though I have already replaced both? Both were aftermarket.

tlarimer

iTrader: (3)

I went the rounds with chain parts store ignition parts being bad out of the box years ago, I will never use anything beside OEM parts on the ignition system.

Former User

Does battery voltage reach the coil and ICM?

We can't verify that you are doing the tests correctly. Post a picture of your multimeter. Are you choosing the correct Ohm scale for the secondary reading?

bmaninva

Got 12V on the blk/ylw wire to the coil and ICM.Fluke 88 multimeter on Ohms auto setting.The blue wire to the ICM has no voltage on it and the ylw/grn wire to the bottom of the ICM has 10.6 V on it. Is that ylw/grn wire supposed to have 12V on it and where does it come from?

Former User

These^ readings are fine. The voltage at the Yel/Grn wire comes from the Blk/Yel wire indirectly. Also check whether this voltage reaches the corresponding ECU connector B13 pin.

Have you checked the timing belt?

bmaninva

Timing marks at TDC,rotor aims at #1 cylinder contact and parts turn while cranking over the engine.I'll check for 12v at B13 when I get home. I can fix $900,000 fire trucks but let a Civic whip my tail.Something is not right here. Thanks,

tony_2018

Yeah.....no ****. Worst mistake was to pull plugs while the engine was running. Did you try to switch spark plug wires with known good ones are check ohms on the wires?

Former User

If voltage at B13 is fine, then do the coil and ICM tests at the link below.

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...eshooting.html

Although not mentioned in this excellent DIY, you must subtract the internal resistance of your multimeter from the coil primary winding reading. Click the Spark link in my signature.

If you crank the engine for 30 seconds, are any CEL codes set? Have you Ohm tested the CKP sensor and wires from ECU connector pins C8 and C9?

bmaninva

OK,here we go.Working from the 10 pin connector at the distributor.Pins 2&6,344Ohms.Pins3&7,343 Ohms.Pins 4&8,346 Ohms.No pins show continuity to ground.Pin B13 at the ECM has battery voltage with the key ON.Probably should have put this out there earlier,but don't know if it matters but it has a B16A2 engine in it. Going to check the C8 and C9 wires now.