coreyhayman

i got a 00 civic si with a blown block, i wanna take my d16y8 head off it and put a d16z6 block in.......questions is, is this a direct swap>? my friend said id need to tap the block somewhere for the oil feed since my heads a vtec head, and that also since my cards obdll id need to figure something out to do with the crank sensor........any of this true? he also said if i take a block that had a vtec head on it before it will have the spot for the oil and the crank sensor?..........he confused the **** out of me

Punk rock mike

um why would you have an 00 si with a d series in it???? the si came with the b16

d-man88

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coreyhayman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got a 00 civic si with a blown block, i wanna take my d16y8 head off it and put a d16z6 block in.......questions is, is this a direct swap&gt;? my friend said id need to tap the block somewhere for the oil feed since my heads a vtec head, and that also since my cards obdll id need to figure something out to do with the crank sensor........any of this true? he also said if i take a block that had a vtec head on it before it will have the spot for the oil and the crank sensor?..........he confused the **** out of me</TD></TR></TABLE>

kill yourself NOW before you do anything to that motor...

BauleyCivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Punk_rock_mike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">um why would you have an 00 si with a d series in it???? the si came with the b16 </TD></TR></TABLE>

He's from Toronto. Canadian Si = USDM EX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d-man88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">kill yourself NOW before you do anything to that motor...</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is a legit question, -2% to you for being a jackass.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coreyhayman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got a 00 civic si with a blown block, i wanna take my d16y8 head off it and put a d16z6 block in.......questions is, is this a direct swap&gt;? my friend said id need to tap the block somewhere for the oil feed since my heads a vtec head, and that also since my cards obdll id need to figure something out to do with the crank sensor........any of this true? he also said if i take a block that had a vtec head on it before it will have the spot for the oil and the crank sensor?..........he confused the **** out of me</TD></TR></TABLE>

The D16Z6 block should be a direct swap. The two issues I can see you running into are dealing with the knock sensor mounting (the Y8 has one while the Z6 does not), and the fact that the Y8 is timed for 12 degrees while the Z6 is times for 16 degrees. You don't need to do anything as far as oil feed is concerned, that's all built into the motors. The crank sensor (I believe) is in the distributor, so you shouldn't have to do anything for that. So, I say do the swap, mount the knock sensor as I show below, and make sure you set ignition timing for 12 degrees.

If anyone else has any input...feel free to share...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by C-SpeedRacing.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Pictured here is the back of a B18a block. Notice there is no knock sensor. The knock sensor came on the 92+ VTEC engines only. If your block doesn't have a knock sensor, you will need to located a hole for one:


Pictured here is the B17 block with the stock location for the knock sensor:


On a B18a block we chose to remove one of the mounting bolts for the alternator bracket and use this as the new location for the Knock sensor:


Using a 10.9 mm drill bit, opened up the hole on the bracket and the block. Then carefully tap the hole with a 12 mm x 1.25 thread pitch tap. Be sure to clean up the shavings and then screw the knock sensor. This will keep your ECU from throwing any codes:


Here you can see the knock sensor in its new location:

</TD></TR></TABLE>

knockout

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coreyhayman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got a 00 civic si with a blown block, i wanna take my d16y8 head off it and put a d16z6 block in.......questions is, is this a direct swap&gt;? my friend said id need to tap the block somewhere for the oil feed since my heads a vtec head, and that also since my cards obdll id need to figure something out to do with the crank sensor........any of this true? he also said if i take a block that had a vtec head on it before it will have the spot for the oil and the crank sensor?..........he confused the **** out of me</TD></TR></TABLE>

just buy a y8 block it will be under $200.

coreyhayman

^ thanks thats really helpful. good idea about the knock sensor also.

Bense

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BauleyCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If anyone else has any input...feel free to share... </TD></TR></TABLE>

*steps up to the plate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">head swapping headbolt config
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1635057</TD></TR></TABLE>

you're going to need to use 9 z6 head bolts and one shorter y8 head bolt. the long 88-95 (z6) bolt will go in the corner where the vtec solenoid is.

make sure that you have the knock sensor mounted. the p2p ecu is wild. it adds timing based off KS feedback. if you dont have a knock sensor, it's gonna feel like a hurd of turtles. check out joseph davis's thread on HMT "y8 timing revealed ******s....p2p explained" or some crazy hmt ****. He explains the issue there.

your best bet IMO is to not touch the dizzy on the y8 head. but something that you may want to do is swap the crank pulleys so that the y8 pulley with the 12 degree BTDC marks remain with the y8 head freakshow. because later on if you use the z6 pulley to set your timing, you'll end up setting it for 16 BTDC instead of the y8's required 12.




Modified by Bense at 10:29 PM 9/21/2006

Brick Top

Bauley and Bense, awesome info!

Bense

lee (schardbody) mentioned adjustable cam gear. I wonder if this the z6 and y8 crank timing belt gear are the same.

****, let's see what hondapartsdeal's catalog has to say about that
95 civic ex
13300-P2E-305 Crankshaft set
13621-PM9-A03 PULLEY, TIMING BELT DRIVE (PENNSYLVANIA METALS)
13810-P26-003 PULLEY, CRANKSHAFT

97 civic ex
13300-P2E-305 Crankshaft Set
13810-P2K-003 PULLEY, CRANKSHAFT

yep, looks like you're gonna want to use the y8 pulley for the timing marks.


Modified by Bense at 8:02 PM 9/21/2006

Syndacate

Nice catch bauley on the flames. Nice help Bense.

I'm not trying to thread jack but can somebody explain the whole reason a D16Z6 (b/c it's a VTEC engine) doesn't need an oil feed line but an LS/VTEC or a Y8 Head on another D block needs a tapped feed... Why does every engine except the Z6 and 15b have a oil feed line for the VTEC? (Maybe the D15B has one, but the D16Z6 doesnt' have one, does it?)

Blah.

EDIT: I wanted to do an LS/VTEC swap and had the money and all at some point, then I saw the 90 page instructions online on how to tap it for the oil line and was like "expletive that."

BauleyCivic

The non-vtec D-series blocks have the extra oil channel but it is blocked by a jet. This jet can be removed (as seen in my mini-me writeup), making the block almost identical to the VTEC blocks as far as oiling is concerned.

From what I understand, non-vtec B-series motors have no such oil jet (let alone the extra the channel itself) so you need to run an external oil line to the head.

Said oil jet (with screwdriver sticking out of it):

Brick Top

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice catch bauley on the flames. Nice help Bense.

I'm not trying to thread jack but can somebody explain the whole reason a D16Z6 (b/c it's a VTEC engine) doesn't need an oil feed line but an LS/VTEC or a Y8 Head on another D block needs a tapped feed... Why does every engine except the Z6 and 15b have a oil feed line for the VTEC? (Maybe the D15B has one, but the D16Z6 doesnt' have one, does it?)

Blah.

EDIT: I wanted to do an LS/VTEC swap and had the money and all at some point, then I saw the 90 page instructions online on how to tap it for the oil line and was like "expletive that."</TD></TR></TABLE> no d series needs an external tapped feed. all vtecs have a feed inside the block. non vtec blocks have a plug that needs pulled when using a vtec head. thats it as far as i know.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BauleyCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The non-vtec D-series blocks have the extra oil channel but it is blocked by a jet. This jet can be removed (as seen in my mini-me writeup), making the block almost identical to the VTEC blocks as far as oil is concerned.

From what I understand, non-vtec B-series motors have no such oil jet (let alone the extra the channel itself) so you need to run an external oil line to the head.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I know that, I read your writeup and know about the VTEC B series, I'm talking more specifically about the D16Z6. It's a VTEC motor, but if it's a VTEC motor then it should have an oil channel in the back (or an "oil jet"). If it has an oil jet why does the OP need to run an external oil line for the Y8 head?

BauleyCivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it has an oil jet why does the OP need to run an external oil line for the Y8 head?</TD></TR></TABLE>

He doesn't.

Brick Top

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BauleyCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The non-vtec D-series blocks have the extra oil channel but it is blocked by a jet. This jet can be removed (as seen in my mini-me writeup), making the block almost identical to the VTEC blocks as far as oiling is concerned.

From what I understand, non-vtec B-series motors have no such oil jet (let alone the extra the channel itself) so you need to run an external oil line to the head.

Said oil jet (with screwdriver sticking out of it):

</TD></TR></TABLE>
got to it before i did

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BauleyCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

He doesn't.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh, okay, didn't think so, I'm not confused anymore.

At OP: Now that I know for sure: You're friend is a ******* *******.

Yeah, thx, I know about the oil jet, just thought he had to run a line because of what his gay *** friend said O.o.

Thanks, cleared up, and I read your write-up awhile ago, good if I do say so myself. I even PM'ed you about how nicely it was done.

SOHC4life 96

If it hasn't been pointed out already, the crank position sensor on a y8 is next to the crank so that might pose a problem.

BauleyCivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC4life 96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it hasn't been pointed out already, the crank position sensor on a y8 is next to the crank so that might pose a problem. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh it is? I was unaware Anyone care to shed some light on this for the OP?

SOHC4life 96

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BauleyCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh it is? I was unaware Anyone care to shed some light on this for the OP?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If I had any idea how get around that I would post something up but I don't. Sorry I couldn't be of more assistance.

Bense

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC4life 96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it hasn't been pointed out already, the crank position sensor on a y8 is next to the crank so that might pose a problem. </TD></TR></TABLE>

the lower timing cover on the 96-00 blocks hold the CPS, he should be able to swap the lower covers.

obd2 =

Brick Top

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC4life 96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it hasn't been pointed out already, the crank position sensor on a y8 is next to the crank so that might pose a problem. </TD></TR></TABLE>

a check engine light for being left unplugged. not sure about resolving it. go obd1?

coreyhayman

so if i dont put the crank position sensor in ill just have a cel? will the motor run ok? ill just remove the cel bulb if thats the case.

SOHC4life 96

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">obd2 = </TD></TR></TABLE>

You're telling me.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coreyhayman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so if i dont put the crank position sensor in ill just have a cel? will the motor run ok? ill just remove the cel bulb if thats the case.</TD></TR></TABLE>

DON'T DO THAT! That light is there for a reason. I'm sure there is a way to bypass the sensor. There might be a way to loop the wires or something to trick the ECU into thinking you have the sensor.

Or like mentioned above, put in an OBDI ecu.

H Tuning

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BauleyCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

He's from Toronto. Canadian Si = USDM EX

This is a legit question, -2% to you for being a jackass.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

OWNED!!

Syndacate

Go ODB-I - less headache.