jdmem205

iTrader: (2)

Ok guys I have a 2000 honda civic si with a b16 head and gsr block. It has i/h/e, aem fpr, skunk2 70mm tb. Now after I did a timing belt change swap engine mounts etc well when we put everything back together my friend didn't time my car right. Well I got that fix but the idle was still high, so then my new mechanic saw my tb was messed in the inside a previous mechanic trying to fix it plugged up a hole inside the tb. So in comes the skunk2 70mm now idle was almost completely fixed then new mechanic then connected a chip and socketed ecu and and he ran some device that I guess gave the ecu a custom map and the car idle perfectly well at that time I couldn't chip and socket my ecu well last week I finally got one well the high idle only went down 200 rpms. And the car still acts funny during normal driving in other words when I'm at full stop at a red light it idles at 1100 then I take off and drive normal I come up to another red light so I drop it in neutral so I can coast to the light well if I'm above 2000rpms ill drop down only to 2000rpm untill the car reaches a full stop now if I am below the 2000 rpm mark and I drop it in neutral the car will rise to the 2000 rpm till I actually reach the full stop. What can cause this? I already did a a vaccum test and ther are no leaks I had one on the new tb and one fuel injector both have been fixed.


Also the idle adjust screw on tb is fully closed. Now that I have a better ecu that's already socketed I'm goin bak to my mechanic so he can put the custom map on my car.

Crap forgot about the hard start issue lol. Ok I have it all the time in the morning in the afternoon after night. Even when the car has cooled off for hours or overnight. I turn the key over and you hear everything crank for about 3-5 seconds and nothing then boom turns on. Sometimes I have to crank it over then stop wait a sec then try again and it starts right up. Now I've read about the main relay but one thing that doesn't happen is I can pull up to a store do a quick run come bak to the car an boom starts up easy. But let's say when I wake up tomorrow and go to leave it will give ne that minor issue. Any ideas?

Thanks for any help and suggestions

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

Try adjusting your idle screw but do it correctly, search how. As for the start issue sounds more like a battery since it only does it after sitting for awhile, have it tested or test it yourself.

hon2984

I had a similar problem when I put my 69mm throttle body on my LS. When I made my own gasket I missed two holes that needed to be cut out. I would check your gasket. Another thing to check would be the throttle blade, to make sure it is closing all the way. Mine was adjustable, I would assume yours is too.

jdmem205

iTrader: (2)

I did have the battery checked and it came out good and it was fully charged. Ok ill check out how to adjust it properly thanks
How can I tell if the blade is adjustable? The skunk2 gasket did not need to be cut out it matched up perfectly.

jdmem205

iTrader: (2)

Ok so I have to checked the see how to properly adjust the idle screw my only issue is that I have the plug to fan temp sensor to turn on the fans jumped so they run constatly only reason I have it like that was cause I replaced the fan switch sensor cause the one that came on the car the clip was broken so I go to plug it up the fans wouldn't turn on so I had to jump it.

The car has a bew thermostat about 6months old and the fan switch is about a month old what can cause this I would really like to run the car without jumping that switch

hon2984

well for starters you need to look at the throttleblade to see if it is closing all the way. I had my throttle body off the manifold, used a flashlight through one side and i could see light so I adjusted mine. there should be a throttle stop on the throttle cable side, mine had a lock nut and a adjustable screw.

jdmem205

iTrader: (2)

Bump anyone else?

Steezer

how did you do a vacuum test? did you do it professionally with a smoke machine or just by spraying brake cleaner?

jdmem205

iTrader: (2)

Brake cleaner

jdmem205

iTrader: (2)

Yes mine has that lock nut with an adjustable screw. Is there a way to check if the butterfly closes all the way without removing it from the manifold?

Also its a 70mm tb on a stock bore n port p73 intake manifold

jdmem205

iTrader: (2)

Can anyone link on how to adjust the throttle blade? And would that be what causes my car to to stay idling at 2krpm when I coast to a stop?

Thanks for all the help

jbpnoman

It could, but so could a vacuum leak that you missed.

Look at your throttle body. Look at the rotor plate, which is on the outside of the throttle body attached to the throttle cable. There should be a small bolt, called a set bolt, near the bottom, where it touches the throttle body at full closed. Tighten the set bolt to open the throttle plate, loosen the set bolt to close the throttle plate.

jdmem205

iTrader: (2)

Ok thanks ill try lossening it and see if that helps.

Now on the hard start issue, the symptoms are like if I had less then a 1/4 tank of gas and it takes it sometime toto fire up, but now it does whenever full tank half a tank etc. I am goin to get the battery rechecked also how does one of those auto places check to see if my alternator is good? Cause since my ecu is obd1 does that eliminate the use of my obd2 service connector?

Steezer

brake cleaner check doesnt always work 100%. check every hose connected to the intake manifold and fuel rail and check to see if there is a gap between the head and intake manifold. also where the throttle body meets the intake manifold.
here is DIY household way of smoke testing for leaks:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMok2y05jNE

beecee18

Similar symptoms to a fuel pump check valve gone bad.
It is there to hold addequate pressure for the vehicles next start,
If this bleeds down over time you will encounter hard start up issues.
Also use FSM to troubleshoot the fuel pressure regulator,
or use a known good one to test to see if startup issues persist.

hon2984

I have seen that problem before as well! Usually just a long cranking time is the concern.

beecee18

long cranking time/hard start

FPR's are notorious for like symptoms

jdmem205

iTrader: (2)

maybe my aem fpr is bad? I guess I can try puttin my stock one bak on and see if that helps out the hard start issue and thanks for the video post ill try it out can I use the tube that connects from the intake to the valve cover to do that test.

Sry for the noob question but what does fsm mean and would replacing the fuel pump fix the check valve?

Thanks guys really appreciate the help.

Btw tried adjust the throttle plate and I got it to adjust but it didn't fix the hanging at 2krpm till a complete stop issue. Did I have to adjust while car was on?

beecee18

I just was helping a good friend with his project,
he had purchased a used aem FPR and it was toast,
some court jester took it apart and damaged the diaphram,
aem sells them individually if needed,
It made pressure inconsistent and erradic.
Try a known good stock or split the aem in two to inspect the diaphram,
get a second opinion on if its damaged or not, cause all it takes is a little knick in tha badboy.
also if you have a FP gauge, see if pressure bleeds down overnight. that will tell you the bill of health of the pump module.

FSM(factory service manual, get one they are free downloads just search.
and replacing the fuel pump will also replace the check valve as it is integrated into the fuel pump module.

jdmem205

iTrader: (2)

O ok yes my stock fuel pressure regulator was workin fine only time I would have hard start up would be wen I had less den a 1/4 tank like litterally to 2 or 3 lines before empty. I guess ill put my stock one back on and see if the hard start persists the next day. Yes I bought my aem fpr used so might be a chance its bad. Yes I do have a fpg, isn't the gauge suppose to read 0 when the car is completely off? I have mine mounted on top of the stock fuel filter. The aem fpr can be split in 2 by removing the allen bolts on top of it correct?

jdmem205

iTrader: (2)

Ok well in any case if need be ill also upgrade the fuel pump.

beecee18

yes removing those allen bolts does let the unit split in half, when you do so just remember exactly how the diaphram sits in there and make sure it goes back as normal. Its easy, just make sure not to pry or gouge the aluminum surface that the diapram mates to as this is how it ruins the diaphram.

And NO fuel pressure should not go to zero after the key is off, that F%$#er should hold pressure for the cars next start

jdmem205

iTrader: (2)

Man really? I just put on my stock fpr and it looks lyk the hard start symptomss are gone. But I don't think the fuel pressure gauge is still sittin at 0 when da key is off.

jbpnoman

Fuel pressure should be held for at least a few hours after you turn the car off.

beecee18

good now I have seen enough of these failed aem units to never utilize it on my vehicle. Thank you!

No need to upgrade your fuel pump unless you need it as a supporting mod for engine build.
The ecu is setup for the LPH of the fuel pump that is in the vehicle, upgrading to a 255lph will put a little more pressure behind the injector during it dead time and cause a slightly richer condition sometimes, and you mwould just be doing more harm then good.

Hope this helps.

edidted- since I see you are running an OBD1 ecu. disregard the above ecu/fuel pump as IDK whatg ecu you are running