xTomei

I have a 2000 civic lx 4 door automatic.
Ive been having alot of electrical problems and I figured out that its probably the ELD(electronic load detection unit).
So I called honda to get the part and they said there is no ELD for that car, that I have to buy the whole fusebox.
Well..... I just took out my fuse box and I also took the ELD out.
Why cant I find the ELD seperately anywhere?

Id rather not fork out 175$ for a fusebox when I can probably get an ELD for 35$

any ideas? or links?

94EG8

buy a used fusebox. I don't know why honda doesn't sell the ELD seperately but they don't. Make sure if you're buying a fusebox on ebay that it didn't come from Canada, we didn't get an ELD in our '96 - '00 Civics.

xTomei

Ok. Thanks.

Even though the ELD seperates from the fusebox, I still cant get it seperate?

94EG8

Exactly.

Former User

Why do you think the ELD is bad? I don't think it commonly fails.

98greensi

the 99-2000 SIR had them (same thing as the us SI)

xTomei

my power, headlights, and interior light pulsate when the cars running.
I have no exposed wires and no bad grounds that i can find.
I'm also getting power related CEL's, such as (high voltage to secondary o2 sensor).

The guy that had the car before me, tore it to shreds with a wall ob subwoofers in the back. So I imagine it wreaked havoc on the electical system.

Former User

Did you already test dash fuse 15? Click the Fuse 15 TSB in my signature.

kimokalihi

I've got a 2000 Civic LX. The Fuse 15 TSB in your signature refers to 96-99 civics. I have looked twice under the car behind the engine and removed the bracket twice and that is not the problem. The problem was fixed in 2000. Honda covered those wires in corrogated plastic hose.

The symptoms were speedo stuck at 20 mph for about a year. I replaced the VSS and nothing helped. I put an SI cluster from a 2000 SI and the speedo worked again. Sold that a couple weeks later and put the old gauge cluster back in and the problem was back again. Stuck at 20mph. Then I found the blown fuse 15. The ECU had codes for Electronic Load Detector, VSS, O2 bank 1 and bank 2. I had the alternator tested and it works fine. I replaced the fuse not knowing what caused it to blow but after reading about the ELD I suspected it was the culprit. It has worked fine for probably 3 months and now the other day after coming out of the store, the car is dead and lacks the juice to crank the engine. Jumped it and it drove home and wouldn't start again. The battery is only a year old and it's a nice optima yellow top.

Fuse 15 is not blown at this time.

Does this sound like the ELD is shot? Seems to be the case to me. It could be bad and not telling the alternator to put out enough output to charge the battery and run the electrical of the car.

2001+ civics have an ELD part number to replace them but 2000 and older do not. Part Number # 38255-S5A-003 Honda wants $200 for a whole new fuse box. I have spent hours searching the internet and the only things I've found were 99 and older having the wiring rubbing issue on the intake manifold bracket and 2001+ replacing the ELD seperately due to it failing to regulate power and being stuck at one voltage and not charging the battery.

kimokalihi

Anybody ?

Former User

When you turn the key from off to ON(II) without starting the engine, does the charge system light (battery symbol) turn on and stay on?

kimokalihi

Yes. Battery, oil, seatbelt and something else. But yeah the battery light stays on after the SRS light goes off.

Former User

After resetting the ECU, what codes are thrown?

What problems does the car currently have?

kimokalihi

I have to look at it today. It's actually my gf's car that I do all the work on and I haven't had time to look at it yet but when I wake up this afternoon I'm going to check it out.

It randomly wouldn't start after she parked it to do some shopping and came out and it wouldn't crank. This leads me to believe that the battery is not being charged and it was running on the alternator. She had it jumped and took it home and parked it and I tried to start it and there isn't enough power to crank the engine. I scanned it with my scanner and it shows no stored CELs. I pulled fuse 15 and visually checked it and it looks fine but I will take a more in depth look at it today.

I'm assuming it's got to do with the blown fuse 15/p1298 (I think that's the code it had before) code and the O2 sensor codes it had a couple months back that went away with a new fuse and everything seemed to run fine until now.

So as far as I know the symptoms are only that the battery randomly died for no apparent reason and it's not even more than a year and a half old.

Former User

So at this point, fuse 15 is not blown and no codes are thrown, right? It sounds like a run of the mill dead battery problem. Have it tested.

You can also test the alternator using a multimeter.

And don't forget to clean the battery posts and terminals.

kimokalihi

I've already tested the alternator at the output post before and it was fine. Then I removed it and had it tested at autozone in their machine and they said it was fine as well.

I pulled the battery and it's on the charger and I'm going to see if it will start the car tomorrow. The terminals look brand new.

I really don't think this has anything to do with the battery but rather it's a problem with the ELD not functioning properly causing the alternator to not output enough juice to charge the battery. I found a website showing how to test the ELD and I'm hopefully going to have time to do that tomorrow as well. Later today actually, it's very late right now.

Electronic Load Detector Test
http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2009/...eld-fault.html

kimokalihi

I've got another question in the meantime. I read that all the car's electronics run through the ELD circuit and that tells the computer how much power is being consumed and allows it to regulate the alternator to accommodate by stepping up the output when needed.

So if you've got 1 or more amps wired directly up to the battery and not to the main circuit that the ELD is reading, won't this be a problem since the amp(s) will be drawing a considerable amount of amps from the system and none of it will be seen by the ELD/ECU? Then the alternator won't be putting out enough power to make up for the increased draw on the battery.

Perhaps I'm missing something because I'm sure many many people with hondas have amps and speakers in their cars. This car does but the amp has not been hooked up since July.

Former User

Detail the voltage test and how you did it. If the alternator outputs adequate voltage, then the ELD is an unlikely culprit.

Former User

Disconnect the amps to see whether your problem goes away.

kimokalihi

I placed the positive prong on the post of the alternator and the negative to the engine block. However this was several months back when this car blew the fuse.

kimokalihi

When I disconnected the amp I pulled the fuse at the battery.

Former User

Retest the charging system. Measure voltage across the battery posts when:

1) Engine is off

2) Warm engine idling with all electrical accessories off

3) Warm engine idling with high beams, rear window defogger, and amps on

Post all three voltages.

kimokalihi

Oka Doka. Will do. After I sleep.

kimokalihi

Battery is fully charged at 12.2v. When I turn the key nothing happens. Accessories have power but there is no click from the starter or the relay when I turn the key. Starter fuse is ok but I have no power at that fuse on either side with the ignition in the on position, but not turned all the way.

Looking in factory service manual for testing procedure...

kimokalihi

It should be mentioned that back in august I tore out the alarm system which would randomly go off for no reason. This could have something to do with that.