1999 Honda Civic K-Series Clutch Problem
10-16-2006, 05:04 AM
#1
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1999 Honda Civic K-Series Problems Please HELP!
Hello Gods of Honda-Tech I just got through with my swap after 6 months of working on it in my own house with no engine lift. It was a great experience and I had LOADS of fun getting everything together.
Now the engine is alive and the car starts.
Problems:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My clutch isn't working properly either it feels like I have to press the clutch down ALL the way to the freaking floor for it to work. I bled the clutch lines and everything. Is there a certain way I need to position the pedal maybe? On the slave cylinder when I look at it as the clutch is being pressed it look as if the little bracket witht the bearing inside the clutch only moves like half an inch....
My car idles pretty rough ranging from 300-1000 RPMS. Here is a short video of how it idles.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7I18rRkr0E
Other than this these are the only major problems that I have run into.
Here is the site that the car is posted on with loads of pictures and a pretty noobish how to install a k-swap in an EK chassis.
Thanks everyone and let me know!
Now the engine is alive and the car starts.
Problems:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My clutch isn't working properly either it feels like I have to press the clutch down ALL the way to the freaking floor for it to work. I bled the clutch lines and everything. Is there a certain way I need to position the pedal maybe? On the slave cylinder when I look at it as the clutch is being pressed it look as if the little bracket witht the bearing inside the clutch only moves like half an inch....
My car idles pretty rough ranging from 300-1000 RPMS. Here is a short video of how it idles.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7I18rRkr0E
Other than this these are the only major problems that I have run into.
Here is the site that the car is posted on with loads of pictures and a pretty noobish how to install a k-swap in an EK chassis.
Thanks everyone and let me know!
10-16-2006, 08:13 AM
#4
Re: (lhsabes)
my clutch engages pretty low too (jdm k20a-R with exedy stg2 clutch & toda flywheel)... doesn't really bother me but I have been thinkin about working on it. I will let you know what I come up with.
are you using a lightened flywheel? if so you wanna set it to idle at 1000 not 900
what swap do you have jdm r, usdm a2? what maps are you running... get your car street tuned asap...you do have k-pro, right?????
are you using a lightened flywheel? if so you wanna set it to idle at 1000 not 900
what swap do you have jdm r, usdm a2? what maps are you running... get your car street tuned asap...you do have k-pro, right?????
10-16-2006, 10:48 AM
#5
Re: (_adirondackR_)
from suja1 motoring:
1st, try bleeding your clutch line - again.
if the engagement point is good and continues to drop back to the floor again, i'm going to think you might have a bad master cylinder - perhaps an internal leak.
if no matter how much you bleed the clutch line, the engagement point stays at the floor, you probably have a good master cylinder and it just needs to be adjusted.
on the clutch pedal, the master cylinder is connected with a clevis pin secured by a cotter pin. the master cylinder end looks like a fork with a jam nut. loosend the jam nut and remove the clevis pin. adjust the fork and temporarily install clevis pin. test the engagement point - is it to your liking? if so, tighten the jam nut and install cotter pin.
hope this helps.
__________________
Suja 1 Motoring
508 E St. Charles
Carol Stream, IL 60188
630-407-0711
http://www.suja1.com
Suja 1 clutch lines for K swaps here!
/quote
1st, try bleeding your clutch line - again.
if the engagement point is good and continues to drop back to the floor again, i'm going to think you might have a bad master cylinder - perhaps an internal leak.
if no matter how much you bleed the clutch line, the engagement point stays at the floor, you probably have a good master cylinder and it just needs to be adjusted.
on the clutch pedal, the master cylinder is connected with a clevis pin secured by a cotter pin. the master cylinder end looks like a fork with a jam nut. loosend the jam nut and remove the clevis pin. adjust the fork and temporarily install clevis pin. test the engagement point - is it to your liking? if so, tighten the jam nut and install cotter pin.
hope this helps.
__________________
Suja 1 Motoring
508 E St. Charles
Carol Stream, IL 60188
630-407-0711
http://www.suja1.com
Suja 1 clutch lines for K swaps here!
/quote
10-17-2006, 10:09 PM
#7
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10-18-2006, 05:28 AM
#9
Re: (KimChiKid)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KimChiKid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On the last part are they talking about the Fork on the transmission? 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
fork on clutch pedal... I just adjusted my pedal- mine its 100x better... I didn't even bleed the line
</TD></TR></TABLE>fork on clutch pedal... I just adjusted my pedal- mine its 100x better... I didn't even bleed the line
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