EG love

Last fall I purchased this automatic 1999 Acura El (d16y8) with a bad block from a friend. Over the winter I replaced the block with that of a y7, put everything back together and the motor won't roll over. I've tried 3 starters now that haven't worked:

1. The starter that came with the car (worked before block seized)
2. Old starter i've had sitting around for years
and 3. Starter i just got at the junkyard 30 mins ago.

Battery is fully charged, i've been taking it out of my daily driven hatch to try starting the EL. Battery terminals are making a good connection, fuel pump is priming (so not main relay??), I even tried my old battery-to-starter wire from my old 1995 auto hatch and still nothing but a click..

I have the transmission ground, the thermostat ground, a ground to power steering pump and added one to valve cover as well

I checked the fuses under the dash

Video trying to start it:
http://s1132.photobucket.com/user/eg...67fef.mp4.html

Before tear down:

Former User

Did you reconnect the G3 transmission ground and the G101 thermostat housing ground?

jbpnoman

Just for clarity, is the motor trying to turn but not starting, or is it not trying at all?

In addition to what RonJ said, are you getting spark? Spark is easy to test, just need to get a spark tester from your local parts store. Should be about $15. Looks like a spark plug with no threads on it.

EG love

Yes they are both connected. I will double check that the thermostat ground is making good contact.

Sorry, I meant that the motor is not trying at all to turn. I was going to try jump-starting it but I remembered its auto, lol.

Former User

There's a rubber stopper that presses on the starter switch at the top of the clutch pedal. Check whether it fell out.

jbpnoman

Once again, what RonJ said. Also, you can jump start an automatic car, you just can't push start/bump start it.

Do you have a voltmeter? If you do, how much voltage to you measure between the positive and negative battery terminals? On the main power terminal for the starter, do you have constant battery voltage? With the key turned to ON(III), do you get 12V to the starter signal wire (smaller blade terminal)?

EG love

The car is an automatic

I don't believe I have one, I'll take a look in the shed to make sure. I'll test what you have mentioned. I appreciate the help RonJ and jbpnoman

I also confirmed the thermostat housing ground is making good contact and I made sure the signal wire is making good contact but still nothing

jbpnoman

If you don't have a voltmeter, you can buy a cheap one at your local hardware or parts store.

EG love

I'll pick one up tomorrow or borrow one, thanks!

EG love

I found a new multimeter tool in my shed. 12.76 is the reading I am getting between the 2 battery terminals. While holding the red multimeter cable on the starters main terminal, and the black cable on the negative battery post, i still get a 12.76 reading. Also with positive cable on starter main terminal and black cable on where signal wire connects I still get a 12.76 reading.. this is all with the key turned off. I'm unsure how to check for constant battery voltage

Edit: I also got the stereo security code from Acura in hopes it was the security system not allowing it to start but still nothing. At least the radio works?.. lol.

jbpnoman

So your battery is OK.

Go to your local parts store and buy a spark tester. It looks like a spark plug without threads, like this.



Follow the directions on the packaging, and check for spark on each of your wires. You should have a bright white spark. Tell us if you get spark, and what color it is, on each wire.

bbarbulo

^^ lol how is it going to spark if it isn't turning over?

simple... pull the starter out and see if it spins on it's own with the key. so remove it, hook it back up while being careful to NOT short out things in the area with the live terminal... remember it's going to flop around if it does try to bump... so wrap the terminals up with a bunch of rags and electrical tape while trying this. have a friend turn the key while you watch the starter. if the bendix comes out to engage the flywheel (torque converter in your case) and the starter spins, then you have an engine issue. try to turn the engine over by hand using the crank pulley bolt or hex relief.

if the starter does not run outside the engine on it's own, then run a separate (min 12 gauge) wire direct from the battery to the starter post. does it turn then? if it does, then you have a starter relay problem. if it does not, then you have a starter problem.

i should mention, remember to ground the starter body to a nice ground (like the engine block). I find a bunch of spare aligator clamps of all sizes make for good testing leads you can just make up as you need with spare wire.

bmell

Do you have any fuel?

EG love

As bbarbulo mentioned, I'm unsure how the engine would give any spark as its not turning over.


Again, as far as I know, fuel has nothing to do with the engine turning over


I'll attempt this next, thanks. Now i'm worried the motor is seized, although I turned it by hand to bolt the torque converter in from underneath so I'm not sure it could be..


By a starter relay problem, do you mean the wire going from the positive battery post to the starter main terminal being faulty? After reading 12.76volts at the battery and 12.76volts are the starters main terminal I had hoped that that ruled out the wire being the issue.

Also, is it as simple as running a 12 gauge wire from the positive battery terminal to the starter terminal? The oem wiring also has a wire going to what I believe is an ABS module/box of some sort, and another wire going into the fuse box beside the battery. Would these need to be in place for the starter to crank the motor?


I apologize in advance but I'm near clueless when it comes to wiring. I'm assuming the signal wire that pushes onto the starter is the ground wire. Do you mean to add another ground other than that? And just during the test while the starter is unbolted? Thanks for the advice

EG love

I believe the y7 block has no knock sensor. I was going to swap it in from the old y8 block but it broke off after basically touching it. Would this have an effect on anything?

Also, could it be something to do with the torque converter binding? This is my first time working with an automatic

Former User

A broken knock sensor would not prevent the starter from cranking the engine.

Former User

Do a similar test to this^ one with the key off.

• With the meter set to read DC voltage, touch the red meter probe to the large starter motor terminal and the black meter probe to the surface of the starter. Note voltage.
  
• Next do the same test but touch the black meter probe to the top of the transmission. Note voltage.

Try this test:

Unplug the starter solenoid wire. Have a buddy hold the ignition key in ON(II). Use your multimeter to measure voltage between the disconnected solenoid wire and the negative (-) battery post. What is the voltage reading?

EG love

I unbolted the starter and got someone to watch it while I turned the key to start the car. The starter still does nothing. I'm starting to think all 3 starters I have tried are bad, I'm going to buy a new one tomorrow from napa and see if that fixes it.

I just checked, starters still unbolted. 4.38 on clean spots where bolts go through. The rest is dirty and reads below that

12.68. I also tested battery and it was 12.68 as well.


I couldn't get a reading any higher than 1.1volts

Former User

While not impossible, the chances that this^ is correct are exceedingly small.

This^ is clearly the problem. Voltage is not reaching the starter solenoid from the ignition switch.

Have you tested the ignition switch?

EG love

i got a about 11.24v reading off this picture but it gives you an idea what im working with

EG love

No I haven't, I'll attempt that now

Former User

Between what two points and conditions are you measuring voltage for this^ test?

Former User

If the ignition switch is fine in the ON(III)/START position, then next test the A/T gear position switch.

EG love

Sorry, I don't think 11.24 was a reading I got from holding the probes on those locations in that picture. I just tested again and couldn't get anything over 1volt

To test the switch, I just test the voltage of each wire? This is the switch in this picture, correct? I tested each wire in the OFF, ON(II) and ON(III) positions using the screw as a ground for the black probe

Key OFF:

Only the wire 'A' had a reading which was 12.48volts

Key ON(II):

All wires were reading about 12.1volts EXCEPT wire 'D'

Key ON(III):

I read 12.33 on wires 'D', 'E', and 'A'. I believe 'B' had a reading of 0volts and 'C' 0.48volts

Former User

...