1998 Civic Idle Problems
#1
1998 Civic Idle Problems
I just purchased an auto 1998 Civic LX with a D16y7 a month ago. Just wanting a stock, reliable daily. The car is completely stock besides lowering springs.
When I bought it, I noticed in Park, once the engine warmed up, it would idle high and surge slightly around 1600rpms, but wouldn’t do it in Drive, and it drove 100% fine. After a week though, the CEL came on, so I had it checked at auto zone, and it came back as an IAC valve code (can’t remember the specific code atm).
So I ordered one off eBay since parts stores want like $200+, which is ridiculous. That made the engine run perfectly with no idle problems and the CEL went off.
Well after 3 weeks of daily driving, one morning it just started doing it again, but worse, and the CEL light came back on. So I thought it might be a vacuum leak since some of the air intake gaskets were tore, and the throttle body gasket was split. So I just ordered a cheap cold air intake off eBay instead of sourcing the stock intake gaskets, and replaced the throttle body gasket with a new one.
No improvement at all after installing those. So I scanned the CEL again, and got code P1509. Had to drive the car home, and it’s surging so badly that at any rpm below 2000, it just surges and bucks. Above that though, it’s 100% fine. Even pulls to redline at WOT with no problems.
I kept the original Denso IAC valve that I removed weeks ago, cleaned it like I’ve watched YouTube videos, and reinstalled it. Yet it still surges just as bad if not worse with that one. I’m really not sure what to do at this point. I removed the air intake to put my hand over the throttle body to see if it had any other vacuum leaks, and the engine died from my hand. Unplugged the IAC valve, and it still surged badly. Do you guys have any advice on what I should check for next? This is driving me crazy as I’ve barely been able to drive it since I bought it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Edit: the only issues I know of off the top of my head is that the car has an exhaust leak in the manifold right between the tubes, that someone already welded up once, but has developed a pinhole crack again. It’s always had it and still ran fine those 3 weeks with that leak. So I’m not sure if that’s a contributing factor or not
When I bought it, I noticed in Park, once the engine warmed up, it would idle high and surge slightly around 1600rpms, but wouldn’t do it in Drive, and it drove 100% fine. After a week though, the CEL came on, so I had it checked at auto zone, and it came back as an IAC valve code (can’t remember the specific code atm).
So I ordered one off eBay since parts stores want like $200+, which is ridiculous. That made the engine run perfectly with no idle problems and the CEL went off.
Well after 3 weeks of daily driving, one morning it just started doing it again, but worse, and the CEL light came back on. So I thought it might be a vacuum leak since some of the air intake gaskets were tore, and the throttle body gasket was split. So I just ordered a cheap cold air intake off eBay instead of sourcing the stock intake gaskets, and replaced the throttle body gasket with a new one.
No improvement at all after installing those. So I scanned the CEL again, and got code P1509. Had to drive the car home, and it’s surging so badly that at any rpm below 2000, it just surges and bucks. Above that though, it’s 100% fine. Even pulls to redline at WOT with no problems.
I kept the original Denso IAC valve that I removed weeks ago, cleaned it like I’ve watched YouTube videos, and reinstalled it. Yet it still surges just as bad if not worse with that one. I’m really not sure what to do at this point. I removed the air intake to put my hand over the throttle body to see if it had any other vacuum leaks, and the engine died from my hand. Unplugged the IAC valve, and it still surged badly. Do you guys have any advice on what I should check for next? This is driving me crazy as I’ve barely been able to drive it since I bought it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Edit: the only issues I know of off the top of my head is that the car has an exhaust leak in the manifold right between the tubes, that someone already welded up once, but has developed a pinhole crack again. It’s always had it and still ran fine those 3 weeks with that leak. So I’m not sure if that’s a contributing factor or not
Last edited by Sn8kebitten; 07-16-2018 at 06:31 AM.
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Re: 1998 Civic Idle Problems
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...lfunction.html
The problem is usually in the wiring to the IACV or in the ecu. Or you just got a bad IACV from ebay. There is a reason they are so cheap when quality parts cost $200.
The problem is usually in the wiring to the IACV or in the ecu. Or you just got a bad IACV from ebay. There is a reason they are so cheap when quality parts cost $200.
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Re: 1998 Civic Idle Problems
I wouldn't pay 200 for a new IACV, but I have found OEM ones for less than 100. I cleaned my original IACV and that only lasted a couple of months before its fouled again. I bought a cheap one of ebay, but it looked like such a turd I just threw it away and bought and oem one. I have yet to install it though as I have been dealing with other, serious issues, like no radio....
#5
Re: 1998 Civic Idle Problems
Would a pcm from a 1998 Civic auto work in my car that has a d16y8 instead of my y7? A friend of mine has a civic identical to mine and I probably could just borrow his pcm real quick to see if that’s my problem, but I’m not sure if that would work since we have different intake designs.
I just got a complete throttle body with a factory IAC valve, tps sensor, and MAP sensor off a Civic in a junkyard, and swapped it onto mine with no improvements at all. So now I’m thinking it’s either the wiring or the pcm
I just got a complete throttle body with a factory IAC valve, tps sensor, and MAP sensor off a Civic in a junkyard, and swapped it onto mine with no improvements at all. So now I’m thinking it’s either the wiring or the pcm
#6
Re: 1998 Civic Idle Problems
Kind of a long shot but have you bled any air out of the cooling system recently?
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena...ues-rough-idle
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena...s-hunting-idle
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena...ues-rough-idle
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena...s-hunting-idle
#7
Re: 1998 Civic Idle Problems
No I haven’t but i have been reading that that can cause my problem as well. Every time I’ve checked the coolant, it’s right to the top of the cap on the radiator. Could constantly removing and installing the IAC valves that leak coolant from those two small hoses every time I remove them possibly cause air to get in the lines?
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#8
Honda-Tech Member
Re: 1998 Civic Idle Problems
No I haven’t but i have been reading that that can cause my problem as well. Every time I’ve checked the coolant, it’s right to the top of the cap on the radiator. Could constantly removing and installing the IAC valves that leak coolant from those two small hoses every time I remove them possibly cause air to get in the lines?
#9
Re: 1998 Civic Idle Problems
Well I’ve jacked up the front end, removed the radiator cap, set the air to full heat on full blast, let it run for 30 minutes yesterday, and 30 minutes this morning. A lot of foam and bubbles have came out but it doesn’t seem like it ever stops. With no improvement in idle. Also unplugged the power steering pressure switch as I’ve read if they’re bad, it can cause high idle. No effect there. Unplugged the o2 sensor for the hell of it with no improvement either lol.
But one thing I’ve noticed is that if I unplug the MAP sensor, idle drops way down to around 1000rpms and sounds almost normal. I originally thought it would almost die every time I unplugged it, but it’s actually just dropping way down and idling normally
But one thing I’ve noticed is that if I unplug the MAP sensor, idle drops way down to around 1000rpms and sounds almost normal. I originally thought it would almost die every time I unplugged it, but it’s actually just dropping way down and idling normally
#10
Re: 1998 Civic Idle Problems
So here is what the coolant is doing. I’ve jacked the front end up and let it idle (surging the whole time) for 30-45 minutes on two separate occasions now with the heat on and it’s still bubbling/foaming up like this. A friend of mine thinks it could be a blown head gasket causing air to get into the coolant, thus causing my high idle and surging. But if that were the case, I stil don’t get the IACV circuit CEL I’m getting. The engine never overheats or loses coolant either
#11
Re: 1998 Civic Idle Problems
Sorry to sound like a jerk......but you're doing it wrong and getting air in from somewhere. Could be a head gasket, could be from the overflow, could be from a pinhole leak somewhere. Has StopLeak ever been used in this vehicle? To properly bleed follow these steps:
1.) Top off overflow tank to FULL mark and close it back up.
2.) Jack up front end w/ radiator cap off
3.) Set Climate Control to Max Heat, Recirculation to OFF, Fan to OFF
4.) Run Engine @2,000-3,000 RPM until radiator fan kicks on w/ all electrical accessories (including radio) turned OFF. Easy way is to just hold the throttle control w/ your hand.
5.) After fan kicks on and off once, TOP OFF THE OVERFLOW & RADIATOR W/ FRESH COOLANT repeat step 4 until fan has cycled 2-3 times. Then you know air has been purged from the system. Now is a good time to check for leaks.
Fixing Your Actual Issue (see attached PDFs):
The code is P1509 Idle Air Control System SHORTED. So the PCM is telling you it can't complete a circuit to the IACV Motor and it THINKS there is a short. Ensure that the two (2) ground wires that connect on the thermostat housing are attached and intact (G101)-that is the ground for the IACV and PCM and check for the presence of the infamous Fuse 15 issue (see attached PDFs). Let us know when you've done these steps.
EDIT: Attachments are PDFs from Mitchell's ProDemand service which I have legal access to being in the automotive industry.
1.) Top off overflow tank to FULL mark and close it back up.
2.) Jack up front end w/ radiator cap off
3.) Set Climate Control to Max Heat, Recirculation to OFF, Fan to OFF
4.) Run Engine @2,000-3,000 RPM until radiator fan kicks on w/ all electrical accessories (including radio) turned OFF. Easy way is to just hold the throttle control w/ your hand.
5.) After fan kicks on and off once, TOP OFF THE OVERFLOW & RADIATOR W/ FRESH COOLANT repeat step 4 until fan has cycled 2-3 times. Then you know air has been purged from the system. Now is a good time to check for leaks.
Fixing Your Actual Issue (see attached PDFs):
The code is P1509 Idle Air Control System SHORTED. So the PCM is telling you it can't complete a circuit to the IACV Motor and it THINKS there is a short. Ensure that the two (2) ground wires that connect on the thermostat housing are attached and intact (G101)-that is the ground for the IACV and PCM and check for the presence of the infamous Fuse 15 issue (see attached PDFs). Let us know when you've done these steps.
EDIT: Attachments are PDFs from Mitchell's ProDemand service which I have legal access to being in the automotive industry.
Last edited by jonsey1886; 07-24-2018 at 09:55 AM. Reason: Attachment of PDFs
#12
Re: 1998 Civic Idle Problems
Sorry to sound like a jerk......but you're doing it wrong. To properly bleed follow these steps:
1.) Top off overflow tank to FULL mark
2.) Jack up front end w/ radiator cap off
3.) Set Climate Control to Max Heat, Recirculation to OFF, Fan to OFF
4.) Run Engine @2,000-3,000 RPM until radiator fan kicks on w/ all electrical accessories (including radio) turned OFF. Easy way is to just hold the throttle control w/ your hand.
1.) Top off overflow tank to FULL mark
2.) Jack up front end w/ radiator cap off
3.) Set Climate Control to Max Heat, Recirculation to OFF, Fan to OFF
4.) Run Engine @2,000-3,000 RPM until radiator fan kicks on w/ all electrical accessories (including radio) turned OFF. Easy way is to just hold the throttle control w/ your hand.
#14
Honda-Tech Member
Re: 1998 Civic Idle Problems
It surges on startup 1100-1400 rpm.
P1509 exists w/out even starting up.
the list:
2 consecutive diff.branded IACV's
new intake manifold gskt.
propane searched for vacuum leaks -none
probed harness IACV to pcm.-no open or short to ground.- good continuity
new tps.
new map
resealed throttle bdy.-new gskts.
replaced from salvage-pulled a 99' lx..
...thinking maybe pcm is bad & may have a bad replacement - uncompatible?
any smokin gun out there of a solution?
P1509 exists w/out even starting up.
the list:
2 consecutive diff.branded IACV's
new intake manifold gskt.
propane searched for vacuum leaks -none
probed harness IACV to pcm.-no open or short to ground.- good continuity
new tps.
new map
resealed throttle bdy.-new gskts.
replaced from salvage-pulled a 99' lx..
...thinking maybe pcm is bad & may have a bad replacement - uncompatible?
any smokin gun out there of a solution?
Last edited by JohnnyRepp; 07-01-2023 at 02:45 PM. Reason: expound upon more
#15
Re: 1998 Civic Idle Problems
It surges on startup 1100-1400 rpm.
P1509 exists w/out even starting up.
the list:
2 consecutive diff.branded IACV's
new intake manifold gskt.
propane searched for vacuum leaks -none
probed harness IACV to pcm.-no open or short to ground.- good continuity
new tps.
new map
resealed throttle bdy.-new gskts.
replaced from salvage-pulled a 99' lx..
...thinking maybe pcm is bad & may have a bad replacement - uncompatible?
any smokin gun out there of a solution?
P1509 exists w/out even starting up.
the list:
2 consecutive diff.branded IACV's
new intake manifold gskt.
propane searched for vacuum leaks -none
probed harness IACV to pcm.-no open or short to ground.- good continuity
new tps.
new map
resealed throttle bdy.-new gskts.
replaced from salvage-pulled a 99' lx..
...thinking maybe pcm is bad & may have a bad replacement - uncompatible?
any smokin gun out there of a solution?
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