VRD^don

ok, its winter and its cold out, snow's falling, and i have no heat.. it blows air but not ice cold air, i would say luke warm air. heater core does not leak, theromostat was replaced TWICE with new thermostats. heater core flushed, coolant flushed twice, coolant is not frozen, water pump works. all hoses (radiator) are hot hot. have yet to check to see if the heater hoses were hot, i did swap the motor, i was sure to make sure that there was no paper towel or anything in the hoses or connections. im stump'd, previous owner did say the car overheated a lot, he black peppered it, copper engine sealant it, thinking it was a leak in the engine somewhere, i did flush the radiator pretty well and heater core after i swaped it prior to new engine install.its been a while snice i did a swap, maybe 2-3 years or so, so im not sure if i got the heater hose in the right location on the motor or routed correctly, pics would help! HELP!! I NEED HEAT!!

Go_Race_Your_Self

Cable that is connected to the tab to control air temp maybe? Don't know the exact word for it.

Kev

VRD^don

the heater control valve? its not that either, i thought that it was it at first, i went in the bay and manually moved it and it works fine, the cable is fine as well. thanks for the imput.

apexi_rsx

try re bleeding the system make sure the fan comes on a few times when doing it. with any air trapped it could cause it not to heat up.

Former User

Does the temp gauge in the cluster tell you that the engine is warming up fine?

FallenH3ro

I'm guessing since you said that it still blows air that all of your fan speeds work as well?

FallenH3ro

May be your heater core and/or motor. Hopefully not since those are a bit expensive.

VRD^don

i'll bleed it again and see what happens, the temp gauge does not get half way, stays steady in between half way mark or operating temp, sometimes a little above but not to operating temp. warms up fine, 10-15mins of it running will get to that temp. yes it blows air fine, just not hot air. all fan speeds work.

VRD^don

ok, so i thought it was a clogged heater core, got some radiator flush, to loosen up the the clog in the core, ran it for a good hour, flushed it completely, even ran some CLR through the core, i know, i sholdnt have. left it in there for only 15mins, and flush the core again. replaced coolant, let the system bleed it self, top'd off the coolant. still nothing, all hoses HOT. felt every single one, even checked to see if there was any blockage between the blower and core, nothing. called it a day and replaced the cap with a new one. still no heat.. bummed.....now the car didnt start this morning.. boo!!

apexi_rsx

that does blow after all that work id be bumed too... something with the heater core is not working properly next to replace would be a new heater core.pinch the 2 hoses off when doing it so u dont loose all that new coolant.

VRD^don

bummed, will bleed it a third time and let it run with the new cap to see what it does. thank for all the imput.

95exstocker

so when you push to the red does cable in engine compartment open the water valve? I have seen them rust off car and they just hang there when you push cable doesn't actually swing valve open. This is what I'm talking about, if this doesnt open you have no heat..

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/.../mur/74631.jpg

My buddies car had no heat until i determined the cable was jacked up. I just manually pushed it open and told him to keep his hands off it until spring. Then come back and I'll push it closed for him.

VRD^don

cable moves fine.

95exstocker

but does it move the valve to open it, valve is in the back of the motor, mounted on the firewall. If your not sure pull it out of there and manually open and close it to determine if its opening up by looking in it, hoses detached to make sure the lever is actually rotating door.

VRD^don

i made sure it moves. it moves. detatched the cable and moved it by hand, it moves. clogged core. going to plug up the core itself and let the radiator flush soak in there for a bit and go from there. thanks all! i'll let you know if it works.

gsrturbo-ek

sound likes a clogged heater core... you stated that previose owner used the copper crap to fix over heating issue and that it doesnt blow ice cold but just barely warm.. so basically that coper crap got in the heater core tubes clogged them halfway and doesnt let coolant flow thru with ease.. are both hoses goin inside the car warm? if only one is warm then its the core..

Roman Slazinski

I had this similar problem in my 98 LX, I baught the car, temp gauge worked fine but had no heat, only worked on fan spd 1 and 4. First I replaced the fan switch, all speeds worked, still no heat. Replaced the Heater Control Valve, and cable. Baught a flush tool in the plumbing dept at Home Depot for about 20 bucks, called The Drain Buster. Works almost like an air pump with a trigger to release about 50 psi if not more. Still no heat. Replaced the Thermostat, Radiator cap, Tstat Temp Sensor, and Rad Fat Switch, still no heat. Replaced ALL the hoses that had anything to do with cooling system, no heat. So I finally went ahead and replaced my water pump and timing belt, finally Heat! I basicly went throught the whole system replacing everything from the least expensive to the timing belt. My timing belt didn't seam bad as I only had about 140k on it, the water pump didn't look bad either. I just had no other choice and it only took me a few hours. I hope this helps. I would never use any stop leak, or any additive to the coolant, the system was made for constant flow, if anything is leaking, it should just be replaced.