Djkevinpaul

Hello been having some issues with my 97 Honda Civic EX, I am in a goose chase here and have read threads but could use some ideas. I have replaced the IACV, TPS and Rewired a broken wire to the MAP sensor. It has taken care of all idle issues except the one issue that I can't figure out. Side note the car did sit for maybe 6-8 months. She runs smooth and great, accelerates no problem. However randomly she will lose power when I say lose power it doesn't die out I don't have to restart the engine simple she loses rpm's they drop down for just breif second and then kick back on its seems to only be happening when cruising along at 45 or 60 Speed doesn't seem to matter. It doesn't do it at idle at least I haven't noticed it, No check engine light nothing like that just she loses that power for a breif secondthen kicks back to normal and drives with no issue. Any ideas or how to check for something? going to to clean the distributed and check the plugs next. But I though for sure it was a TPS issue but replaced that already.

Djkevinpaul

Anyone? going to try a few things but would love some input, all the threads I read no one came back to say what solved the problem.

09chaplak

Did you dial in the new TPS correctly?

Djkevinpaul

Yes I believe so I used a multimeter and the middle wire was at .4 with the throttle closed the wire closest to the fire wall was close to 5. I am not 100% sure I set it right but pretty sure I can test it again as I wasn't sure if the same wire was supposed to be test for calibration or what.

09chaplak

I guess just start with the basic tune up stuff and check your grounds just to be sure. Grounds can cause weird things to happen.

Djkevinpaul

I will do that. but finally another symptom and being it sat for a while I am
Leaning fuel pump. Coming home from work did the same thing last night about 5-10 minutes into the drive it felt like I took my foot of the gas and put it back in a matter of a second. Today I drove to the corner store when I jumped back in to start, it cranked no start, tried three times. The 4th time I pressed the gas let it crank a second longer and it fired up I drove home and switched cars. I did smell gas breifly when I pressed the gas to try to get it started. Being the pressing the gas helped it start I am
Leaning away from electrical as it doesn't feel like a
Misfire and there is no CEL and I thinking filter and pump with today's issue.

Djkevinpaul

Rethinking all this would the smell of gas just for a second and random drop in rpm's like your taking your foot off the gas and the putting it back on, point More towards a distributer/coil/plug issue? I know a can check the gas pressure but being its so random and not really getting worse tosses me back and forth between flue or spark issues. The no CEL doesn't help my cause as I would think it would of there would be in the case of a spark failed. I am probably over think this just starting to elmaniate the cheap fixs and I am trying to sell this so don't want to sink 300-400 in a new pump and distributer withnout trying to really know what it could be.

StokelesS_g2

Did you check the plugs, wires, and dizzy yet?

Also next time, when your driving, try jiggling your car keys a little bit, and see if it cuts out again?
Could be your ign. switch is starting to go bad.

Seems like your car may be completely shutting off while your driving, and since you're still rolling, once a good contact is made again, your car then resumes running.
.

JarvisW

Sounds like a random open. Did you solder the wires for the MAP or just use quick connects etc?

Also, the gas pedal has nothing to do with gas like a carburetor is. There, there is extra fuel in the bowl, so when you press the gas, some will squirt down the TB. Here, the injectors do that job, and are controlled by the ECU. You could pump the pedal 100x and it wouldn't flood.

Does the CEL come on and turn off when you turn key to ON II?

Djkevinpaul

Yes it does come on all the dash lights work. Actual before I soldered the map connections the CEL was coming on because I had broken the power supply wire to it, once I resoldered it the CEL went off and solved the problem of bogging down when I would lightly press the gas, it also had a bad rough idle and replacing the IACV fixed that as well. I had a total of three issues which each have been fixed by the listed work I did, except this loss of power breifly when drivin,which I thought was the TPS till it wouldn't start this time around for a few cranks and I smelt gas for a breif second. But it started the forth time while pressing the gas not sure if that was just luck or do something. I didn't use connectors knew that wasn't smart and I do solder fairly well nice and clean and not to much solder. I still have to recheck the TPS again to be sure but the symptom listed above wouldn't be caused by the TPS needing recalibrated I believe.

JarvisW

Ok sounds good. If you soldered and heat shrunk the connection that should be plenty then. (we never know the skills of most posters here, let alone the noobs lol)

TPS double check is a good idea, just in case.

My book (92-95) says it should be 0.5 closed and 4.5v open. So you might be a lil off. (couldnt find specs in the FAQ for 97)

ALSO, watch for a smooth transition from close/open

Djkevinpaul

I understand no worries, I will test again and get back the results. Outside of that do you have any other suggestions, I am going to go through the the distributer, ignitor, wires and all that in the next few days. Just I am leaning away from fuel issue simply because of the gas smell once it started from cranking a few times. To me ,and this is a guess, that would say maybe getting gas with no spark and when it does cut out when driving for a second it isn't a misfire I know that shutter it's a complete rpm cut for about a second, but the no check engine light was throwing me towards fuel related so I will keep you posted and would love any gut feelings because that's where I am, I will be doing a fuel pressure test as well to see if it is by chance that though as well. It was my first go at setting a TPS so after reading a good forum on here I am Going to do it again. Thanks for the wisdom it's appreciated.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

test coil/igniter.

JarvisW

Yeah, the smell of gas is a lil odd to me at least. it shouldn't have that much for just a sec misfire.. Does the Tach die when it hiccups? If so, it could be ignition system. So, looking inside the dizzy could help..

it might make a smell out the exhaust if its not firing, but you prob shouldn't be smelling it in the cabin (windows down?) A fuel system problem wouldn't make it smell more as far as I know.. (im just a shadetree tech tho lol)

Hmm, carbon filter or hoses loose, breaking maybe?

Djkevinpaul

Let me clarify a little here to, the only time I got the gas smell was when I tried to start her 3 times at the corner store. The forth time I pressed (knowing now that doesn't give it gas lol) the gas and she fired up when, she fired up is when I smelt the gas...moon roof was open windows a bit as well. This is the only time this has happened (not starting on the first crank). Since I replaced the TPS and IACV. The Tach does drop yes, completely off and back, there is a slight varation I noticed as well some times it's a second longer and drops all the way down others it just makes it half way and then kicks back in.could simply be the length of time the hiccup happens. There is no corolation to RPM's it has done it at different speeds. I am 100% confident it's not a transmission issue that I know lol. Again the quickness of the drop of originally had me thinking ignition and spark issues. I haven't ever had real fuel issues with a car to know the feeling of it but seems it would be more sputter, stutter, stumbling kinda of like when your mower starts running out of gas.

JarvisW

Yeah, sounds like ignition. Check coil for specs, igniter, wires going to and in dizzy.. etc..

Have it run and check harness to see if you can narrow it down.

You're on the right track it seems at least.

chrysler kid

Freebie item to clean is the vtec solenoid.

Check your cap and rotor and the condition of items inside the distributor. A failing fuel pump in a fuel injected vehicle would result in the car not wanting to Rev past a certain rpm. The few I've seen in a failing condition result in the car almost acting like it is hitting the Rev limiter when you try to Rev the car in neutral over 3k rpms.

fcm

As mentioned and basic, check/redo your main grounds, do NOT just eyeball them, disconnect/clean/reconnect, the main ground, batt. neg. post and cable clamp, batt to chassis ground and chassis to engine ground and while at it check/redo the thermostat housing ground(s). 94

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

tach dropping off/behaving erratically plus your other symptoms point to bad ICM.

oneheadlight

how ironic.. I just had this happen to me 3 weeks ago. Driving along and loss of power, tach at 0 rpms. The fuel smell is because there is a bit of priming going on with the fuel injectors when trying to crank the car. Crank it enough and you'll get a flooded situation, or basically smelling gas.

Your ICM most likely died, test out the coil, plug wires, I bet they'll all test out perfectly fine. If it's the original distributor then you got about 20 years of use! not bad! I would suggest an igniter/icm (once you test out and prove it is the problem) from Honda. I have had it with these junk aftermarket parts.. ugh!

Djkevinpaul

I will check the ICM but more symptoms to add, I have been working with the wiring so still will clean them and look into the ICM. But could this at all be the alternator? Today while trying to force new symptoms I noticed while in idle if I kick the AC and headlights on it causes the RPMs to drop off I have had no other symptoms of an alt issues just putting that out there. Upon inspecting the distributer it doesn't look like the original in fact the plug wires look fairly new, there is no way for me to tell how long but not the original for sure. I am going to follow up on the ICM and check wires clean connections and will post what happens. Just curious on the alternator part, could be a combination of two issues though as well. Like I said it sat probably a year.

oneheadlight

I know that on my civic the distributor and the alternator (original) failed around the same age! One might not be related to the other just hit at the same time.

and if you do need a new distributor I would NOT waste time with the aftermarket. If you can get a new one (either the housing or the complete distributor) from Honda, do it. The quality of the aftermarket distributors are a joke! I know that what attracted me to the aftermarket distributors were the price. But screw that. I will spend a little more now and have reliability! yeah I had to vent.. lol

I do have to add though, the TYC alternator I got has been excellent quality. Guess I should just direct my aftermarket anger at the crap distributors out there..