Reefsdaddy

I know there are other threads with no spark issues and that I'm a noob here that will prob be told to search the previous threads (which I did). I have troubleshot the issue and don't know where to proceed. Here goes
No spark at plugs
No spark at Dizzy
Changed out igniter
Changed out ECM
Non of this did anything
Checked for signal from ECM as well as power to the igniter and nothing on both.
I'm at a loss and don't know what my next step would be. Please help

Former User

Are you saying that there is no voltage to body ground at the Blk/Yel wire attached to the coil and ICM?

Reefsdaddy

There is no voltage in any of the ignition system. I did a crank test on the pos wire on the igniter, no volts. Did another crank test on the Yellow with Green stripe wire of the 7 wire distributor connector still nothing.

Former User

Why are you calling it a "crank test"?

Describe exactly how you are testing for voltage. Are you using a multimeter?

Did you test the Blk/Yel wire?

How did you test for spark at the plugs?

Reefsdaddy

Sorry by crank test I mean while it was being turned over by the starter. I used a spark tester to test at the plugs, dizzy and coil. I used a diff website to do a step by step test but not sure if ppl would get pissed about posting another sites link on here.

Former User

Describe exactly how YOU tested for voltage at the Blk/Yel wire in the distributor.

Never crank the engine with the distributor cap removed because you will blow the coil inside the distributor. Just turn the key to ON(II) rather than ON(III).

Reefsdaddy

Ah well I might have mucked that up a bit then. I had the cap off the distributor using a multi meter with neg side on the partially exposed blade of the Yellow with Green stripe wire pos end of MM had on the pos batt terminal. The pos and neg wires going to the ignitor I used the MM on pos on pos, neg on neg.
No voltage was detected in on(II) or on(III)

Former User

You did the voltage test incorrectly.

For the Blk/Yel wire, do this:

1. Remove distributor cap, rotor, and inner cover to expose the coil and ICM wires. Do not unplug the distributor connector.
   
2. Turn key to ON(II).
   
3. Set multimeter to read DC volts.
   
4. Touch red meter probe to the Blk/Yel wire and the black meter probe to the body of the transmission.
   
5. What voltage do you read?

Reefsdaddy

Will have to test first thing in the am.

Reefsdaddy

Tested this morning and I have 12.3 volts at the blk/ylw wire. Same as batt current status.

Former User

Remove the coil from the distributor and Ohm test it.

Click the spark link in my signature for testing details.

Reefsdaddy

My results from coil test
tec coil
primary winding A-B 0.01
A and secondary winding terminal 16.41
current air temp 64

Former User

Out of spec - replace the coil

Did you mean 16.41K?

Reefsdaddy

Yes 16.41k heading out now to pick up new coil.

Reefsdaddy

New coil (valucraft from autozone) reads out of spec also
0.01 A-B
10.69K A -secondary winding terminal
Should I save the time of even installing it?

Former User

Describe how exactly you are doing the Ohm tests.

Post a picture of your multimeter, how it is set for the tests, and how the probes are installed.

cadeMFjohnson

Crank position sensor

Reefsdaddy

MM is set at 20k reads 2 decimal places.

How do I post a pic here? All I get is enter URL

Former User

The 20K setting is fine for the secondary winding test, but not the primary winding test.

Upload your pictures to PhotoBucket or ImageShack, etc. and then paste the IMG code into your post.

Reefsdaddy

[IMG]

Reefsdaddy

Former User

The spec primary winding resistance is less than 1 Ohm. Why would you use the 20,000 Ohm range for this measurement?

Reefsdaddy

Because apparently I don't know what I'm doing

Former User

Using the 200 Ohm scale, what's the reading after subtracting the internal resistance of the meter.

Reefsdaddy

It's 11.7 on the new and 5.3 on the old one. Not sure how to find the internal resistance on the meter though.