96CivicEXSedan

I have some squeak coming from my driver side front wheel area so I wanted to change the brake pads.

However, I cannot get the bolt off (either of the 2) that house the brake pads. I believe it might be called the brake shoe.

I hit it with a lot of wd40 as well as liquid wrench. It's simply does not budge. I even destroyed a (harbor freight) socket wrench.

Also, it is incredibly hard to turn the bolt, but it actually can turn with great force. The only problem is that it seems like part of the bolt that holds it in place also turns. I tried to get a picture to show.



What can I do?...

Koko4

It sounds like someone just overtorqued the crap out of them. If it were me, I'd get another socket wrench and get a breaker bar, or cheater bar - just a piece of rod maybe 1-2 feet long (you will use it over and over, trust me). That will give you the leverage you need to break it loose.

I don't understand what part you are talking about that is spinning, but once you loosen the threaded part of the bolt, you will have to wiggle it a bit to get it the rest of the way out, as it should be seated into the caliper pretty good.

Marvin1985

iTrader: (5)

Caliper bracket bolt is what you mean

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like the bolt might be frozen in the bolt guide.

Unbolt the entire bracket. That'll get it off for now, so you can actually work on it in a more convenient position.

Wdpfreak145

If you can't get anything around the head of that bolt, then your other option is to cut through it and the slide pin with something. I would recommend a cutoff wheel or something similar, but I've done it with a(n acetylene) torch before. Kind of a last resort option. I prefer to use close-ended wrenches for jobs like this, and this is exactly why.

96CivicEXSedan

I am able to get a wrench on the bolt. Its just incredibly difficult to turn, and when it does it does not loosen at all. hence I think something is turning with it...

HondaPartsHero

You should be able to use a box end wrench I think maybe a 14mm on the parts that turning with the bolt while you turn the bolt. Use some PB blaster instead of WD40.

instrument

there are two bigger bolts that hold that bracket to the knuckle, if you remove them you can slide the whole caliper off and have more space to figure it out.

pityocamptes

I would heat it up and let cool a few times with a torch, propane, map, or oxy acetylene... heat, and cool...

kyden

if you get it off, you might want to get that wheel stud replaced too.

i would cut the head of the bolt off and get a new pin + bolt. can you get a box wrench on the end of the slide pin?

Wdpfreak145

Yeah, these guys are right... if the slide pin (which you will see between the caliper and the caliper bracket) is turning then you will never get the bolt loose. Some slide pins have a place to put a second wrench to hold it still but if the bolt is seize in the slide pin, it's gonna be a pain in the ***. Cut that son of a bitch in half like I said and save yourself the grief. Go out and by new slide pins AND bolts, lube them properly, and you'll never have to worry about it again.

96CivicEXSedan

Ok, so is the consensus that I need to cut something?

I am far from being even a novice car repair person. But my only real option is a DIY. I don't have a few hundred to throw away at a car place.

I also just went out there and tried to torque it using a wrench and hammer. It moves bt doesn't loosen -- that thing rotates with it still. Also cut up the back of my hand when torquing it and the wrench slipped off.

pityocamptes

have you tried using heat or a cheater bar?

pityocamptes

Did you put a box wrench on the metal slider (has two flat sides) that goes into the bracket, while using a socket on the outer nut?

Matt_EH3

Do you have access to an impact wrench? If so, I would remove the entire assembly (the two larger bolts holding the caliper bracket) and try using that.

If not, using a regular wrench + a rubber mallet (hitting on the handle) can create a similar effect to what an impact wrench would do.

You can also try what was proposed above (cheater bar, heat, etc.). I would try all loosening options before cutting it off.

Make sure that you use brake anti-seize when you put it back together so you never run into that issue again.

I also concur that your wheel stud is done. You should replace that thing.

B_Swapped93

14mm in 1/2 drive with a 2 or 3ft breaker vbar should do it, just PB/WD-40 the **** out of it before hand.

96CivicEXSedan

This what I need?

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-driv...bar-67933.html 1/2" Drive 25" Breaker Bar

B_Swapped93

that would do the trick^ turn the wheel fully "out" so the bar fits in the wheel well or should I say "out" of it. be careful not to break the bolts tho ! I assume it's -0 degree's or more where you are metal is more prone to snapping in the cold altho it may not be measurable I've just noticed that.

96CivicEXSedan

Thanks, I am in Southeast TX so it's not too cold. Should be in the 50's tomorrow and a low of mid 30's, probably at night.

B_Swapped93

it's -15 here ! would kill for those temps right now. good luck