SscoootzZ

Hey all, new to the forums, and really hoping you can help. I have already done some searching and found some helpful info on the A/C blower I am having some problems with. However, I need some clarification in my issue. I apologize if I missed this somewhere else & it's not my intent to make a redundant thread. Also, I need to preface my query with the fact that I have only minimal experience with car repair. However, I am a great student, a quick learner, and follow instructions very well. Also a bit of back story: I had the A/C compressor clutch replaced about 6 weeks ago. That said...

My A/C works alright, when the blower is working. The blower isn't working consistently. I thought maybe it was the switch (on dash console), or perhaps even a fuse. Switch still engages the compressor (?) because I can hear the load increase on the motor, and what sounds like the compressor kicking on. The fuses all look good, albeit they are all original OEM. These fuses are the bigger ones under the hood. I think I see some very minor oxidation on a few of them, on the copper that spans the top of the fuse. I don't know how to test the integrity of the relays that are under the hood. I think that 3 of them are aftermarket (made in the USA by Omron(?)) and one of them looks OEM (made in Japan by...?). I imagine I can use a DC voltmeter, which I can borrow.

One post I read indicated to drop the blower from its mounting & run it hot from the battery to see if runs, or tries to run (thank you RonJ@HT http://goo.gl/OJEaIS). So I am willing to do that because I'm on a bootstrap budget right now, & the previous trip to the mechanic ran me a few hundred $$.

So my actual query is to find the most straightforward approach to determine why my blower is running inconsistently. Is it more likely the blower hitting its last legs? Is it likely that an old relay could be malfunctioning? Is there a chance that the thermal control transistor (?) is malfunctioning? I greatly appreciate any insight and guidance in this. My plan is to try to do as much as I can on my own, again because of finances. Thanks in advance...

Cordially with hope,
Scott

HondaPartsHero

Blower probably on the way out

SscoootzZ

Hi HPH, and thanks for your insight. Is there a way to determine whether the blower is failing then? I mean, I get that it's function is inconsistent. But, is there some sort of fail test I can apply? If yes, please let me know how I can achieve that. If no, then is Amazon a reliable place to pick up a blower assembly? And which parts would I need to perform the replacement adequately? I have the Owner Manual downloaded from somewhere online, saved on my phone & laptop. Thanks again for your reply, and I appreciate anything else you're willing to share.

Scott

mx73lol

Boot strap budget? Pick-a-part for the blower motor and the relay. Should be about $20 or less.

jonsey1886

The blower speed control resistor sits under the glove box (darned if I can remember EXACTLY where) and frequently is the source of the motor not working right. Chances are HIGH that it's blown-remove the glovebox & the passenger's side kick panel then find a rectangular white plug near the blower motor that is plugged into a socket with a small phillips head screw attached. Pull the plug & unscrew that resistor. Replace the resistor (about $12-16 at any auto store)

Here's a pic so you know what to look for:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...826&cc=1315633

EDIT: See that pic in your other thread for the EXACT location. Steps are as I described


1.) Remove passenger kick panel.
2.) Remove glovebox
3.) Remove resistor
4.) Replace resistor.

SscoootzZ

@jonsey1886:

Thanks for the info. If I'm understanding your post, you suggest I try the resistor replacement before investing in the blower motor itself, right? That sounds good and doable. Then, if the new resistor doesn't improve the situation it's more likely that the motor itself may be bummed. Does that sound right? Thanks in advance for your insights.

@mx73lol:

Thanks for the tip. When you mentioned "relay," did you mean the actual relay under the hood (in the fuse box)? Or did you mean the resistor under the dash (as mentioned by jonsey1886)? And same question: change the resistor first and if that doesn't help then replace the motor? Thanks in advance for your insights and advice.

Have a great day all ^_^
Scott

axis11

If you don't want to waste precious money, identify the defective component/s before replacing them.

When your blower stops working,
Unplug the 2-pin connector on the blower motor.
Use a volt meter or testlight or any 12v bulb to verify you are getting battery voltage.
Positive probe on blue/wht wire, negative probe on body ground/chassis.
Is there battery voltage?
If yes,
Set the multimeter to continuity
One probe on the blue/blk wire, other probe on ground/chassis.
Do you get continuity.
If you get battery voltage and good ground,
Replace the blower motor.

SscoootzZ

@axis11:

Thanks for your detailed explanation of how to check my blower function. Your step-by-step guide will definitely help. I'll be borrowing a voltmeter to perform that diagnostic over the weekend.

I appreciate every reply here, you've all been very helpful. I'll check in with any further questions and/or a tale of success.

Scott

SscoootzZ

Hello again everyone.

Thanks again for all the help and information. I did manage to walk through the troubleshooting steps provided here. I found that the 2-pin connector does receive battery voltage, and that the continuity check was positive also. So it sounds like the blower motor, as described by the post by @axis11. Is there any reason to think that it could be the blower speed control resistor, as mentioned by @jonsey1886? I want to rule out the resistor, just to be sure, before I enter a part order on Amazon. How would I test the resistor? Do I test with the multimeter? Again, any insight is greatly appreciated.

Scott

Former User

Dis you run power and ground wires directly from the battery to the motor to see whether it runs?

jonsey1886

I would personally advise against ordering from Amazon (or eBay for that matter) a much more reliable site-with good quality parts and fair shipping is www.rockauto.com

B_Swapped93

Ebay is a site, where ppl sell stuff not a mfg company. There are authorized dealers on there.

HondaPartsHero

My experience with rockauto has been super excellent both price and shipping times. Also one of my packages was lost by FedEx (2 pkg sent together) and I called rockauto and they refunded my money no questions asked. Plus if you goggle it you can always get 5% off. However now advance auto will price match online prices as long as its the same item.

axis11

If you get continuity on pin 2 and body ground while the blower speed setting is set from 1 to 4, your resistor is fine.

RonJ@HT
Re: 1996 Civic A/C Blower Issue
Dis you run power and ground wires directly from the battery to the motor to see whether it runs?

SscoootzZ

@RonJ@HT
No, I did not run power & ground wires directly to the battery. That suggestion makes sense, though. I followed the tip above to check voltage and continuity. It was similar to the troubleshooting guide I found in the owner's manual posted up on the web.

@axis11
Ok, thanks. Yes, those are the results I got...I think. I know that I measured 12V from pin 1. In the voltage test, I did have the key in position II and I tested the blower at each fan speed. The continuity check I did, I didn't have the key in position II and so the blower speed wasn't set to 'ON' at any speed. I will re-test the continuity. I kind of don't think it's going to change the outcome, so I'm going to go ahead and figure that it is the blower motor.

@jonsey1886
Ok, thanks for the tip. I will definitely check out Rock Auto.

I'll let you all know how the continuity re-check goes, how the part hunt goes, and all the rest. I really appreciate everyone's help.

Scott