hardline

A buddy of mine has a bone stock 95 Civic LX as a daily driver. Four days ago, as he was pulling out of his driveway, it died altogether on him. It is not getting spark. Wires are good, Distributor cap and rotor are good, Coil is getting 12 volts, Igniter has been replaced, I have AC voltage from all 3 sensors when cranking (Cyl, Crank, and TDC), and all 7 wires from the dizzy to the ecm are good. I replaced the computer on it, and it still doesn't start. Still no spark as well. The cam does turn, as I can see it do so when I pull the oil cap off and have him crank. I have yet to pull the timing belt cover to check to see if it jumped time, but this is unlikely, as the belt was replaced in November. I am at a loss here, any help would be appreciated.

Louie

ignition switch?

dohc_sedan

Or the ignition fuse. 40a under the hood

Former User

Does the fuel pump prime? Any CEL codes?

hardline

Pump primes, no codes stored in the computer.

Former User

Does the CEL work?

What you have tested pretty much covers the possibilities, so I presume one of the tests, such as for the coil or wires was done incorrectly or missed a problem.

Regarding the three distributors sensors, the proper test is for resistance (350-700 Ohms) not voltage. Also check the wires for an open or short.

Did you test the Yel/Grn wire (igniter to ECU) for a short or open?

Are all of the wires inside the distributor properly routed?

hardline

Are those sensors Hall Effect or Variable Reluctance?

Former User

I believe Hall effect.

hardline

Update: Ignition Driver Module tested bad at Autozone, replaced. Still no spark. Coil Resistance is as follows Primary 1.1 Ohm, Secondary 9.98 KOhm. Both values are out of range. Could it be a bad coil that took out the old driver module? The New module still tests OK, but I don't want to mess with it until i get the coil replaced.

hardline

Replaced coil, still no spark. I am thinking it is the dizzy itself. Anyone know a way to test the cam, crank, and TDC sensors?

Former User

Does the Blk/Yel wire attached to coil and igniter unit have battery voltage with the key in ON(II)?

hardline

Yes it does.

Former User

Has the timing belt snapped?

Did you test the Yel/Grn wire for an open or short?

Any CEL codes? Did you test resistance of all three distributor sensors?

If those are fine, swap in a known good ECU.

Ploeg8393

first things first, did you check your grounds?

hardline

Timing belt is good, grounds were checked and bypassed by clamping a jumper cable between the block and the neg terminal to test. Still no go. I did not check resistance of the 3 sensors. What are their values supposed to be? The yel-grn wire is good from the computer all the way to the distributor. The computer also has been swapped from a running civic. There were no codes stored in either ecm (Solid check engine, flashing SRS). I also checked the tach out wire for a short to ground, that wire is fine as well.

Ploeg8393

I have a Honda service manual for that car (not autozone but Honda). Might Help, lots of info in there, like 2000 pages, yes 2k.

PM me your email and i will send it.