Jimi Hondrix

1995 Civic EX. B20B engine. Automatic to manual transmission conversion.

In the midst of removing steering rack and would like to know if the subframe must be dropped to remove the PS rack?

White_EG1

Nope no subframe removal. It's pretty straight foward. Just take off the wheel, remove outer tie rods, and there is a bracket you have to remove I believe 4 bolts? Then the rack is in with 2-4 bolts. The hardest part is getting it out, take the passenger side of the rack and push it in as if you were turning this will help slide it out. Hope this helps.

EDIT: Oh and if you're fighting for space like I was removing the inner tie rods could make it come out like a breeze.

And forgot you have power steering, hopefully that's why you're changing it out😉 Just disconnect any line that leads from the pump or whatever to the rack, simple.

mk378

Before you start, set the wheels straight ahead and lock the steering wheel. Do not turn the steering wheel when not attached to a rack because that is likely to break the clock spring.

Jimi Hondrix

Thanks for the replies.
I stopped working on it yesterday at a point where both sides inner and outer tie rods are removed (counted turns for re-alignement), exhaust down-pipe is removed. The outer ties rods I removed didn't have a cotter pin in them or a hole in the stud/threads for the cotter pin to go into...must be cheap Ebay crap, though they have zerks fittings. Anyway, throwing them out and replacing with new. I need to pick up the parts today and will resume where I left off.

I did make one grave mistake of not centering the steering wheel before I removed the tie rods. Initially I was just going to just change the inner and outer tie rods and leave the rack as is. However, I changed my mind and decided it would be a good time to pull the rack too and depower it properly by disassembling it and removing the metal piston ring seal inside it. I removed the driver's side inner/ outer tie rods first and after I removed the passenger side tie rods I push the rack back towrds the driver's side to a point where it's nearly flush on both sides to the steering rack's (black) outer casing ends. I never moved the rack/steering wheel past the farthest point of travel of it's normal movement (when tie rods are present/installed). Never touched pinion shaft/steering column bolts..steering wheel still connected

So, I'm hoping the clock spring isn't effected. However, centering the steering wheel now may be a whole 'nother issue. I could install new inner and outer tie rods without the boots to realign it, put tire back on, center steering wheel and lock down, removed tie rods again and proceed with rack removal ..if that's necessary? Will wait for replies before proceeding.

mk378

The rack is what keeps the wheel from turning too far, so detaching the tie rods doesn't affect that. Count how many turns it is stop to stop then come back halfway. The wheel should be upright at that point, lock it there. You could at that point pull the wheel and remove the clock spring and set it aside so you can turn as much as you like while messing with the new rack.

Jimi Hondrix

[quote=mk378;51323861]The rack is what keeps the wheel from turning too far, so detaching the tie rods doesn't affect that. Count how many turns it is stop to stop then come back halfway.
The wheel should be upright at that point, lock it there /QUOTE]

Thanks. That's good news and now that I think about it..makes total sense.

Update: Rack is out should I bother replacing any seals? My thinking is that since it's being depowered there's no need because no steering fluid or pressure. I plan on cutting off the piston seal, cleaning and regreasing rack, reinstalling. Does removing the piston seal have any effect on the the rack bar bending? It seems like that seal also acts as guide to prevent bending towards the passenger side but, I may be off base with that thought.

I didn't bother removing the clock spring or wheel. Rack/pinion came out pretty easy. I didn't cut off the seal..just gound down the silcone rubber part of seal level to metal ring and then cut notches in quarter sections to help air pass. I plan to drill a few holes in the first metal tubing to allow air to vent (ala tron steez way).

Jimi Hondrix

Currently have power steering rack apart and correctly de-power by removing rack seal (metal ring with silicone seal). I removed the pinion gear, snap rings and all internals to clean and apply new grease. When I pulled the pinion gear out of the housing sub assembly small metal bearings fell out. This bearing is a drawn cup needle roller type and isn't listed on any related Honda diagrams or sold as an OEM part. The bearing's casing is stamped with NK 13 x 21 x 12. For any one referencing this post this translates to: Millimeters: 13 x 21 x 12. Inch conversion: 0.580 x 0.824 x 0.470

I couldn't find any Honda related part or spec size via bearing warehouses, Napa auto parts and other sources I called. Turns out this bearing size is also a Stihl (lawn equipment) crankcase bearing part # 9513-003-3470. I found some on Ebay that are NOS (new old stock) for $10. I was informed it's best to have the bearing machine pressed-in to avoid damage as they are easily damaged if installed incorrectly. I order the Stihl bearing listed above and it should arrive by Friday.
Installation instructions: http://www.jtekt-na.com/assets/ce/Do...ctBrochure.pdf

Jimi Hondrix

Update:

The needle roller bearing pressed in nicely. I heated the sub-housing in an oven for hour at 350 F and chilled the bearing in a freezer for an hour. Pressed it in with a vice and 13 mm socket. Greased the pinion gear, rack teeth, and ends of outer housing. Installed new inner and outer tie rods on both side. Lined up wheels as best as possible and installed steering wheel shaft to pinion gear coupler. Will need an alignment but needed one prior to rack removal anyway. Steering is much easier and smoother. Unfortunately, still makes a clunking noise occassionally but hoping that an alignment and adjusting tensioner may help. Thanks for all the replies.