1994 Honda Civic Ex Cooling system issue-- HELP! Tried tons so far.... ugh.
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1994 Honda Civic Ex Cooling system issue-- HELP! Tried tons so far.... ugh.
94 ex
auto
stock as can be
Was overheating so I started diagnosing.
The owner before me thought it had a blown headgasket, which is 100000% does not, no symptoms and runs fantastic. He wired up the fan because it "wasn't turning on" to a switch, so I re-did the wiring, and now the fans work properly as they should at about half way indicated on the temp gauge.
I have replaced:
The radiator, because I saw it leaking a bit out the top and the place where the cap goes was not sealing properly.
The cap, since duh, new radiator = new cap.
The temperature sending unit/sensor (Front of the block/car).
The thermostat (OE 170 deg. one)
Now, if I'm not wrong, the only thing left is the waterpump. NOW, onto why/how it overheats.......
I can have the car sitting at idle, have it heat up to normal operating temp, turn the ac on, do whatever--- it will NEVER overheat or get hotter than half. It runs great. Now, when I start driving, it stays there as normal driving happens, but once I do a "Bonzai" run, or just accelerate a decent amount, as to get on the freeway, it heats up like.... 40% of the temperature indicator in the amount of about 5 seconds.
What the hell could this be? ONLY under load/acceleration it heats up...... waterpump belt slipping? waterpump being insufficient? IM GOING CRAZY! lol. What else could it be guys? Thanks for the help in advance!!!
auto
stock as can be
Was overheating so I started diagnosing.
The owner before me thought it had a blown headgasket, which is 100000% does not, no symptoms and runs fantastic. He wired up the fan because it "wasn't turning on" to a switch, so I re-did the wiring, and now the fans work properly as they should at about half way indicated on the temp gauge.
I have replaced:
The radiator, because I saw it leaking a bit out the top and the place where the cap goes was not sealing properly.
The cap, since duh, new radiator = new cap.
The temperature sending unit/sensor (Front of the block/car).
The thermostat (OE 170 deg. one)
Now, if I'm not wrong, the only thing left is the waterpump. NOW, onto why/how it overheats.......
I can have the car sitting at idle, have it heat up to normal operating temp, turn the ac on, do whatever--- it will NEVER overheat or get hotter than half. It runs great. Now, when I start driving, it stays there as normal driving happens, but once I do a "Bonzai" run, or just accelerate a decent amount, as to get on the freeway, it heats up like.... 40% of the temperature indicator in the amount of about 5 seconds.
What the hell could this be? ONLY under load/acceleration it heats up...... waterpump belt slipping? waterpump being insufficient? IM GOING CRAZY! lol. What else could it be guys? Thanks for the help in advance!!!
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Re: (99ssinoc)
well is there water in ur oil?? Look under the oil cap on ur valve cover and see if your oil looks milky and does ur water retainer bubble up when its over heating?
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Re: (SOHCejcivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHCejcivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bled the system properly?</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is a big issue, bleeding takes a long time............... you think its right ... then its not
This is a big issue, bleeding takes a long time............... you think its right ... then its not
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I sat there and burned the **** out of my arms bleeding the system--- I waited for the thermostat to engage and bled the system until I got a steady stream of coolant coming without any bubbles.
and in Re: to the headgasket assumption, no, I do not have ANY symptoms, like I said before--- that would include no milky residue, I'm only using water since I just flushed the system and it is all still clear.
Yes, the overflow does bubble up when it overheats, but I am assuming due to the system being a "closed pressure" system, that is normal, is it not?
Modified by 99ssinoc at 1:30 PM 3/23/2008
and in Re: to the headgasket assumption, no, I do not have ANY symptoms, like I said before--- that would include no milky residue, I'm only using water since I just flushed the system and it is all still clear.
Yes, the overflow does bubble up when it overheats, but I am assuming due to the system being a "closed pressure" system, that is normal, is it not?
Modified by 99ssinoc at 1:30 PM 3/23/2008
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Re: (99ssinoc)
well bro, go ahead and check the tension on the W/P belt and condition of it. It took me about 3 weeks of bleeding "2 times a week" and topping off before my problem quit ..... other then that you pretty much checked everything else.
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Re: (Blzdeep)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99ssinoc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I sat there and burned the **** out of my arms bleeding the system--- I waited for the thermostat to engage and bled the system until I got a steady stream of coolant coming without any bubbles.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
to make it easier, try and find one the of "no spill" funnels....it has fittings that are like a radiator cap, but it allows the funnel to go down in the radiator. this will bleed the system better than that little bastard valve ever could.
also, when you replaced the thermostat, did you use a honda stat or a aftermarket like autozone?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
to make it easier, try and find one the of "no spill" funnels....it has fittings that are like a radiator cap, but it allows the funnel to go down in the radiator. this will bleed the system better than that little bastard valve ever could.
also, when you replaced the thermostat, did you use a honda stat or a aftermarket like autozone?
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Re: (SOHCejcivic)
[QUOTE=SOHCejcivic]
to make it easier, try and find one the of "no spill" funnels....it has fittings that are like a radiator cap, but it allows the funnel to go down in the radiator. this will bleed the system better than that little bastard valve ever could.
Huh Good info
to make it easier, try and find one the of "no spill" funnels....it has fittings that are like a radiator cap, but it allows the funnel to go down in the radiator. this will bleed the system better than that little bastard valve ever could.
Huh Good info
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