EGVX92

So Ive owned my VX for almost 2 years now and I've been getting her back into shape from previous owners. Well my dr side front ttirehas a vibration over 60 and while braking the car shakes violently above 40. The tires are fine, new pads and rotors and upper control arm with ball joints. Wheel bearing is ok, but I'm still getting this vibration. It is lowered on dropzone 450r coil overs.. soon to be replaced with oem assemblies. I noticed a lot of twisting play in my suspension fork that bolts to lower control arm. Has anyone else ran into this, I've exhausted all options I can think of. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

joey1320

Raise your front end and shake the wheels top/bottom and lt/rt. Any play?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

If you haven't had your wheel balance checked, and your alignment checked, then you haven't exhausted all options. Hop to.

scottied15

iTrader: (1)

did you check the slider pins on the calipers to make sure they're not seized?

have you checked your bushings, your strut fork bushing or any other suspension bushing should not have play in any direction

Nave43

Wheel balance, Bushings, Alignment, A bad tie rod end will constantly throw off your toe and give you a vibration like that, Did you buy cheap rotors? Sometimes there just not made right and have anomalies from the factory that can give you that "warped" rotor feel.

joey1320

Seriously why even bother??
This is another example of a one post owner who will not take the time to inspect and diagnose the problem and will only come back with more questions, if he ever comes back...

Nave43

You are most likely right... but not to long ago this was me. If no one would have helped me i would still be ferkud'. With the help of the members here i have learned a ****-ton. Im not saying the search function isn't there for a reason. Or that this isn't a lost cause, but to me i kind of ow it to the forum...

If he comes back and refuses to get his hands dirty. That is when I would jump on the GTFO bandwagon.

EGVX92

So after made post replaced strut bushing in lower control arm. I checked ball joint while lca was off and there is no tension in the ball joint. So thats next to be replaced. Ive checked just about everything listed here ( thanks btw for the help ) and as well I've done my research before I made this thread. Its more a chassis vibration then wheel shimmy. Steering wheel doesnt shake and pedal doesn't pulsate in anyway. So assuming and speculating that I didnt so my research is a douche move. I've probably done more then most but 95% is all the same, tires or brakes which I know are fine. So yea using all options available. Oh and I'm back to check the post, crazy right.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Don't be like that. Your post was a day and a half after OP's. Give him time. People are busy and have lives outside of fixing their cars. And sure enough, OP posted back.

TomCat39

May I inquire what this means and how you determine if there is tension on the ball joint?

I popped my front lower ball joints this weekend and my passenger side would not grip to allow tightening. I had to use my impact gun to get it to the torque range required. After that I had to use jerking movements to get the castle nut in position for the cotter pin. Normal tightening, even at torque, the bolt would just spin.

Is this what you mean by no tension?

I will admit I'm not very familiar with suspension but have been learning as I go. Thanks in advance and watching you to help isolate my shake, mine is in the steering wheel unlike yours. Still learning from you none the less.

Oh and if after all the above is done and you still have vibration you may want to look into a Road Force balance of your wheels and tires. It's a bit more accurate than just a normal balance.

Also, is your vibration/shake mainly on acceleration? If it's is predominately upon acceleration I've been told that could be axle related. I'd probably save that for very last though. 250 bucks for quality new axles is not a cheap fix. I've been told to avoid manufactured axles.

EGVX92

TomCat - I replaced my bushing in the lower control arm where suspension fork bolts to. While LCA was off I literally grabbed ball joint with my hands and the ball joint freely moved in all directions. This is my first experience with ball joints so swung by local oriellys and checked a oe replacement ball joint. Without substantial force it wouldn't move anywhere near as easy as the ball joint on the car now. Its on my to do list after I throw on the shock/spring assemblies tonight and new tires tues or Wednesday. My vibration happens when braking over 40mph, it stops as soon as under 40mph. Acceleration has no vibration and I've used Ebrake to check rear for any vibration, which there is none.

EGVX92

You sir get a Honda-Tech high five.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

And you still haven't gotten an alignment done. Speed-dependent vibrations are highly indicative of alignment problems, and on top of that, a shop couldn't properly align your car if there were damaged suspension components, which they would tell you about.

Take it to a shop. Pay for an alignment. See what they say.

EGVX92

Its getting taken care if with new tires sir. Hard to get there when you work 8 to 5 mon through fri. But its getting taken care of pretty soon. Just want to get to the oe suspension and new tires on first.

Nave43

Wo wo wo wo.... Im on your side here scro. That doesn't mean that i am automatically going to call the OP a liar either. We get lots of people in here who do exactly what the OP described. I haven't been here very long but trust me it gets old. I was simply stating that i agree noobs take advantage of the info provided here, but at the same time there is no need to freak out on every person that doesn't post back within 24hours....

Thusly i apologize if you took my post the wrong way, but we are definitely on the same team here.

EGVX92

Its all good sir. I a member of other forums as well. I know how it goes. I def try to keep up with post. I get no notifications so I check it constantly. Minus the fact this past weekend the wife hauled us out to W.Va to visit family and they have no cell service. Thats why it took longer then normal to post back. No negativity from me, just agreeing crazy the OP posted back.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

You can change this setting in your User Control Panel. Can be set to Instant, Daily, or Weekly.

EGVX92

Thank you sir, I couldn't find where to change it.

tony_2018

Everybody just stop for a sec and let the guy update after all is done...check back later this weekend.

EGVX92

Update: new tires and alignment Saturday. Having to wait on suspension since passenger damper fork bolt rounded, trip to junkyard as well. Thanks again for all help, I'll update Saturday after tires and alignment.

EGVX92

So for the last week I haven't been able touch my car. Luckily this weekend I should have new spring assemblies on car, ball joints being done and LCA bushing on Pass. Side. Still having shake when braking until 40 mph. Doesn't do it during clutch braking, or just coasting down. Will update again after parts this weekend. I apologize for length between post, 3 full time jobs takes most of your time and attention.

TomCat39

If it's only during braking that's usually a sign of runout on the rotors. Turning or replacing the rotors usually takes car of brake vibration.

EGVX92

That was the first thing I did. All new pads rotors drums and shoes. Did not fix issue at all. I did clean hub face where rotor sits before I installed new ones. there is only vibration above 40 when braking under 40 its either gone or subtle enough I don't feel it. Its a vibration but no steering wheel shake or brake pulse.