Hankhall

First I wanted to say Hi and I hope to learn a lot about my Honda through these forums. I just bought this 1.5L 16valve 1990 honda DX about a month ago. I had to do a head gasket replacement cause I couldn't get it to pass smog. Anyways after finally tearing the engine apart and putting it together twice, I got everything back together as it should be, but it just won't start. It sounds sort of like a timing issue but I have set the timing perfectly according to pictures and manuals I have seen. I put the crankshaft in line with the timing cover mark then I put the cam with the work "up" at the top, made sure the #1 was at TDC and that the distributor is pointed at #1. But no go. It cranks and almost starts after sitting for a couple hours, but it just wont do it and it sounds like timing is off.

I wanted to ask what could be making this happen? I noticed on my cam gear that the line to the left of the word "up" was painted white and there is also a white line on the upper valve cover, which I am assuming lines up with this. I just don't know where the crankshaft pulley should be in relation to this. I am concerned about destroying my engine or I would line up the crankshaft and turn the white lines to line up and attempt to fire it up.

Thank you for all your help and I hope I can learn enough to help you guys someday

Oh and I hope this is the right forum... it was the closest to the year/model I own, sorry if it's wrong.

Jockone

I bought a civic once that the cam pulley had spun so to speak from where it should have been which meant that the factory timing marks were off.
It was a pressed metal pulley with solid metal spacer where the bolt goes through which has three dimples that hold it in place,I had similar problems when I changed the Tbelt and w.pump and took some time to figure it out as I had never seen it before.

jhammond_82

iTrader: (1)

check the ef forum. its for civics 88-91. might be more knowledgeable people in there.

Hankhall

Hmm that kinda seems like the issue I might be having, the only thing that makes me second guess it is the fact that when it is in the position with "up" facing up, the distributor is exactly where it should be pointing, at #1.

Maybe I just have the crankshaft pulley set at the wrong mark? I have it set on the individual notch that comes before the group of 3. Should it be set on one of the 3 notches that are grouped together?








Ok, so I have what is labeled as "white mark" set with the cam "up" and the dist at #1. Should I have the pulley set at "red mark" with cam having "up" being up and the pistons at TDC??? Did I just use the wrong mark? Sorry I don't know a whole lot about this pulley in particular. Thank you

canadaek

white mark is tdc red mark is 16 degrees before top dead center (for ignition timing) there should be to line's on the cam gear around 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock these should be lined up with the top surface of the head. also if it will only try to fire every couple of hour's it maybe flooded . should pull plugs to check cly #1 is closest to the t-belt good luck

Miguel Quezada

So my 16 degrees btdc is the red mark. Because I fails my smog check by almost nothing and my timing was way too advanced. I had Pidgin going up hills now is gone. It can afecaf smog right

mk378

Yes remove the #1 plug to confirm the crank is at TDC when you think it is. If the crank pulley key is not in place, the marks on the pulley could be wrong.

The cam pulley has two slash marks on the sides, these should line up with the top edge of the head with the cam at TDC. Some models also have another mark and a plastic pointer at about 7 o'clock on the cam pulley. This mark should also line up with the pointer at TDC. When the cam is TDC, the slot in the end that drives the distributor will be straight up and down (perpendicular to the top of the head).

The "UP" label is only for a rough reference so you're not 180 degrees off when looking at the other marks. It doesn't necessarily end up exactly at the top. Always use the other marks.

If you cranked the engine when it was out of time you may have bent the valves and have no compression now.

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After you get the engine started you have to short the test connector and set the spark timing to the center mark of 3. If you try to use a timing light without shorting the connector, it will show way advanced. Set the distributor to the middle of its range when trying to initially get started.